Paglia e Fieno - Straw and Hay - is one of the most classic combinations of flavored pastas. Straw yellow plain pasta mde from flour and egg yolks, and brilliant green pasta made by adding blended spinach to the pasta dough. This particular batch, which was on display at Taste, a fascinating foodfest held in Florence's Stazione Leopolda, was made by the Pastificio Mariotti, artisan pasta makers from Prato.

The pasta in the background? To the left, regular and tomato-flavored tagliatelle. To the right, a ring of tagliatelle surrounding pici al vino, pici made with red wine.

And what to do with Tagliatelle pagila e fieno?

All sorts of things; they're quite versatile. You might:

• Season them with ragù alla Bolognese: Perfect in winter!
• Season them with marinara sauce, if it's hot where you live.
• Season them with a a cream sauce, which will show off their colors.

Natale con i tuoi, la Pasqua con chi vuoi -- "Christmas at home and Easter with whomever you wish," is an old Italian saying. However, people have a way of returning to the hearth, and Easter is an occasion for far-flung families to reunite around a well-set table, renewing the bonds that tie. Traditions vary greatly from place to place, and here are some of my favorite Italian Easter recipes.

It is time to start planning -- on Sunday our Parish priest noted we're already half way through Lent -- but in the meantime, we are in Lent, and here are a couple of meatless ideas:

• Orecchiette with Broccoli Raab and Salted Alici
  A classic, zesty Apulian pasta recipe with fish and greens.
• Roast Gilthead Seabream With Onions and Limes
  Yes, limes, which are becoming more common in Italian markets.
• A Frittata:
  A couple days ago Elisabetta and I enjoyed one made one with 4 artichoke hearts, cut into eighths (instructions for preparing them), and 4 eggs. Very fine!

As I noted in the newsletter I sent out yesterday, much of Italy has either gotten snow (lots of it) or rain, and some areas are even worse off -- the Bora, Trieste's fierce winter wind, was gusting to more than 100 mph yesterday and ripping off roof tiles. So I suggested broth and boiled meats, and hearty soups.

If you live where the weather isn't quite as fierce, we're in the midst of orange season, and they are quite good this year. So:

Linguine alle Arance, which also have some fish in them. Followed by, if you want to continue with fish:

Denice all'Arancia, Dentex stuffed with oranges and roasted. Or:

Cosciotto d'Agnello Al Cartoccio, Roast Leg Of Lamb with Oranges. It's a bit different, and quite nice. With either I would serve mashed potatoes.

To finish up? Arance Ripiene alla Siciliana, Sicilian Stuffed Oranges, which are elegant and quite nice.

A wine? White, and I might go with a Sicilian white, for example a Grillo.

Buon Appetito!

The concepts of Risotto and Cheese go hand-in-hand, and if you are organizing a party or dinner for a significant number of people, one of the nicest ways to serve a risotto is in a hollowed out wheel of cheese. In this case Monte Veronese, a mild slightly nutty cows' milk cheese made in the mountains above Verona, and the risotto is risotto al tastasal, a risotto traditionally made in the Veneto during the salami-making season (before filling the casings), to judge if the impasto, or filling of the salami is is properly seasoned. The heat of the risotto melts a little of the cheese, and makes it even tastier!

If you click on the photo you'll be taken to the risotto al tastasal recipe (you could also use a mild sausage, if need be). Some other risotto recipes from Verona.

• Risotto alla Pilota
  A hearty risotto with lots of pork, for the people who worked Verona's rice mills and needed substantial foods.
• Risotto al Radicchio Rosso di Verona
  The bitterness of radicchio goes wonderfully with the creamy texture of a risotto.
• Risotto All'Isolana
  A classic from Isola della Scala, the heart of Veronese rice production, made with pork and cheese.

Veronese rice production, you wonder? Southeast from Verona is Isola della Scala, a pretty town surrounded by rice paddies, where Vialone Nano, one of the great Italian short-grained risotto rices, is grown.

Making Risotto: Basic Instructions | Making Risotto, Illustrated