I'm sorry this is late. It has been quite gray recently, and though there hasn't been much cold this week, gray day after gray day is saddening. It's a good thing that squash is orange, because orange brightens up any day, and an orange colored risotto made with squash is sure to bring a smile. Followed by:

Polpette di Carne Fritta, Fried Meatballs, which are an excellent way of using up the meat that is a byproduct of making stock or broth at home. Incidentally, I think home-made broth is much better than the commercial stuff, and consider boiled meats (with sauces such as mustard, mostarda, and mayonnaise) a fine winter meal; during this part of the year we have boiled dinner about once a week. I would serve the meatballs with a tossed salad, or perhaps finely sliced green cabbage seasoned with olive oil, salt, vinegar, and a hint of pepper.

Dessert? Charlotte alla Milanese, a simple apple pudding.

Buon Appetito!

Those of us who are American are nearing Thanksgiving, and it is time to start thinking about roasting up a stuffed bird. Not that one need wait until The Day, however. Here are a couple of fairly easy recipes, one for roast chicken with a rice and pistachio stuffing. The other, with a bread-and-walnut stuffing, is boiled, and offers a nice change of pace from roasted birds.

Pollo Ripieno ai Pistacchi
Roast chicken with a tasty rice and pistachio filling.

Pollo Ripieno alle Noci
Boiled chicken with a bread-and-walnut stuffing, from Trentino Alto Adige.

Roasting the Bird, Around About & Around the World: A Collection of Festive Stuffed Bird Recipes

The word Cotogna (pronounced cotonia) translates as quince, though it's not quite that easy in Italian markets. In Tuscany quinces of the sort pictured here can be labeled either Pera Cotogna or Mela Cotogna (Pear-Quince & Apple-Quince, respectively), and you may find one term used in one stand at a market, and the other at another.

To further confuse matters, in Tuscany the word Cotogna is also applied to an end-of-season clingstone peach, the Pesca Cotogna, which is as delicious as it is lumpy and ugly. And is therefore eagerly sought out by those who care more about flavor than appearance. Also, I have seen truly ugly apples (not quinces) labeled Mele Cotogne. More than once. As I said, there is some confusion.

True quinces, however, are not particularly tasty as is: They are hard, astringent, and sour. On the other hand, when cooked they make fine jams, and Artusi has a couple of suggestions:

• Conserva Liquida Di Cotogne: This is a runny quince jam.
• Conserva Soda Di Cotogne: This is a much firmer quince jam.

2006 was a fine vintage in Piemonte, and I was much impressed by the 2006 Barbaresco poured at this year's vintage presentation. Quality was quite high, and there are some very fine wines to be had. Wines that are for the most part very young -- Barbaresco, like it's Cousin Barolo, can age for decades -- but that will already drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews. Assuming you're not blessed with the patience necessary to allow them to grow. If you are, they'll richly reward you.

My complete notes for the 2006 Barbaresco | Piemontese Reds Not What You're Looking For? The General Recipe Index