Il Tempo Cambia (The Weather's Changing)...

Just a week ago it was still unseasonably warm in much of Italy, but since then Mother Nature has gotten out her flail and pounded us, flooding both the Siracusano and Carrara, driving huge breakers ashore in Liguria and around Trieste, and dusting both the Alps and the Appennini with snow. To cope with this sudden cold, comfort food is in order, and here are a few ideas:

• Lasagna al Forno -- The north Italian version combines bechamel sauce with meat sauce, and is delightfully warming.
• Maccheroncini al Prosciutto -- These are baked, with a creamy prosciutto-rich sauce, and really hit the spot.
• Polenta Pasticciata alla Lombarda -- Pasticciata means baked, and in Lombardia they bake their polenta with lots of cheese and a drizzle of fresh butter. Quite satisfying, and quick if you start with ready made polenta.
• Ossibuchi al Sugo -- Simple, but oh so tasty veal shanks in meat sauce (this also yields excellent pasta sauce).