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Kyle's Italian Food Blog

By Kyle Phillips, About.com Guide to Italian Food since 1996

Italian in English: Ossobuco alla Milanese

Wednesday January 24, 2007
One of the most positive things about living in Italy is that I get to experience Italian cuisine in its entirety, and discover a great many distinctly local specialties. The downside is that I don't get to see how Italian recipes evolve outside of Italy -- and they do, sometimes dramatically. So I've decided to start doing a weekly blog that takes a look at an Italian recipe, and a couple of versions prepared beyond Italy.

Given the weather (It's cold and rainy today, with snow on the way), we'll begin with Ossibuchi alla Milanese, Milanese braised veal shanks seasoned with a lemony herb mix called gremolada. The recipe is fairly specific within Italy: the major variations regard the presence of tomato (purists frown at it), and the gremolada, whose core is lemon zest and garlic, with rosemary and sage, but can change from cook to cook.

First, in Italian:

Marco G categorically refutes tomatoes, demands veal rather than beef, and says the gramolada should be abundant.

Artusi instead allows tomatoes, though he also notes that osso buco is "a dish best left to the Milanese." His recipe is more approximate.

And now in English:

Michael Chu, of Cooking for Engineers, adds chopped carrot and celery to the onion at the outset, tomato later, and braises the meat in the oven. Also has nice photos of the preparation.

Sarah Moulton, of Gourmet Magazine, adds herbs (and lemon) to the meat as it cooks, and is much more specific about the ingredients -- Spanish onion, and Pinot Grigio as the wine. Some, but not as much tomato, and she simmers hers over the stove.

Clotilde Dusoulier, of Chocolate and Zucchini, offers a French variation, with quite a bit of tomato, and adds bay leaves (among others) to the herbs. Cooking atop the stove.

I do want to underline that I am not judging the recipes; they all look good to me. Just looking at variations, which are the spice of life.

The Superbowl Recipe Exchange, Continued
This time we're on home turf:
Spuma di Prosciutto is a delicate spread for crostini (small slices of toasted bread) made with prosciutto cotto -- cooked ham. In addition to being a tasty antipsto (on the crostini), it will also be a nice dip at parties.
Gorgonzola in Crema is very simple, and in addition to serving it as a spread, might be nice over red meats off the grill.

Comments

January 31, 2007 at 2:31 pm
(1) Ester Di Guida says:

Hi, my name is Ester and although I have a tipical Hebrew name, I was actually born in Italy to Italian parents. I own a small restaurant & catering service 2 hours north of Toronto, Canada.
I really love your your site, it keeps me close to my native land, which I can’t visit as often as I would like!
I like your recipes, the majority of which I’m familiar with, since I’m a chef. One little comment re- “Osso Buco”. My recipe if a combination of all the ones mentioned & I must say, my patrons love it! Keep doing the good work. Arrivederci, sometime, you never know, stranger things have happened. We might even meet in perso.

Thank-you for allowing me to have my say

Ester(thecookinglady@cablerocket.com)

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