Greetings from Montalcino!

Come February the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino, the organization that oversees the production of Brunello di Montalcino, one of Italy's most famed and sought after wines, organizes a presentation of the current vintages the producers are releasing: The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino, which I am curious about -- it's from a torrid summer of the kind that creates all sorts of problems that serve to separate the best winemakers from the rest, the 2006 Rosso di Montalcino -- Brunello's younger sibling, from a nicely balanced, graceful vintage, -- Moscadello, a sweet white wine made from the Moscato grape that was famed long before anyone in Montalcino took an interest in reds, and Sant'Antimo, a catch-all denomination that includes both red and white wines, some of which are quite good.

I won't be commenting on the tasting until next week, but in the meantime here's a menu one could build around the wines.

• With a White Sant'Antimo:
  Mixed cold cuts and cheeses, or perhaps pici all'aglione, thick stranded extraordinarily garlicky pasta.
• With a Red Sant'Antimo, or a Rosso di Montalcino:
  Pappardelle sul Cinghiale, broad strips of pasta with a wild boar sauce (other furred game will be fine if need be).
• With a Brunello di Montalcino:
  The obvious answer is a roast, but I might opt for a scottiglia, a rich stew made by the charcoal makers of the area from whatever animals they could catch. As side dishes, boiled white (cannellini) beans and spinach.
• To finish up with the Moscadello,
  A simple Sienese Torta di Ricotta.

Buon Appetito!