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Kyle's Italian Food Blog

By Kyle Phillips, About.com Guide to Italian Food since 1996

Greetings from Verona, and a fine Lambrusco

Thursday April 3, 2008
Verona, in the Italian Northeast, is home to a spectacular opera festival, boasts many beautiful churches, castles, and ruins is often referred to as the Florence of the North because of its artistic treasures, though they are older – Ancient Roman and Romanesque – than Florence’s Renaissance masterpieces.

Verona is also host to Vinitaly, the major Italian wine trade show, and this morning I tasted Medici Ermete’s Concerto, a Lambrusco Reggiano DOC made from the Salamino varietal, which is perhaps the most delicate of the Lambrusco varietals. The wine is deep pigeon blood ruby with violet rim, and has a fruity bouquet with rich berry fruit kept on its toes by deft raspberry acidity, which is also present on the palate, supporting lively fruit, while some underlying bitterness adds further interest. Quite nice.

People generally think of Lambrusco as a wine to set out and drink without much thought, and though one could do this with Concerto, it will likely surprise you by capturing your attention, and you could well want to open a second bottle.

What to drink it with?
A good pizza would be one option, though I’d be more tempted to drink it with a substantial rice dish, say rice with chicken or sausage risotto, or perhaps tortellini in cream or tortelli with meat sauce or the drippings from a roast (which will work well as a second course, with grilled vegetables). In short, it’s versatile, and if you’ve always thought of Lambrusco as a lesser wine, you’ll rethink your opinion.

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