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MelanzaneIn introducing eggplant in La Scienza in Cucina a little more than a century ago, Pellegrino Artusi said the vegetable was hard to find in the markets when he was young (the 1830s), and that most people hesitated to try it because it was "Jewish food" - in other words, something foreign. This comment would certainly come as a surprise to most Italians today, and would likely have surprised at least half the population even then: Eggplant was, and is, one of the most prominent staples of Southern Italian cooking. In partial defense of Artusi one might note that the eggplant was imported from afar and initially used as an ornamental plant whose fruits were viewed with suspicion; Melanzana, the Italian for Eggplant, derives from Mela Insana, or noxious apple. Presumably those living in the south began eating it sooner because it grows better there than the north, or perhaps because hunger drove them to try it. In any case, it comes in a wide range of shapes and sizes, from spherical to cylindrical, and from tiny to enormous. Smaller eggplant tend to be milder in flavor, while larger ones can have bitter overtones, which can be leached out by sprinkling the sliced eggplant with salt and letting it sit for a while in a colander. You will probably want to salt the eggplant in any case to remove some moisture, because eggplants become quite watery otherwise during cooking. In terms of what size to use, this depends upon what you are doing. If the eggplant is sliced or chopped, you can use smaller ones, whereas stuffed eggplant will require larger ones. The Joy of Cooking notes that eggplant discolors quickly when sliced, unless it is sprinkled or rubbed with lemon juice, and suggests that it be cooked in enamel, glass, or stainless steel to combat this discoloration. It also notes that a pound of eggplant is equivalent to 3 cups diced.
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