Buzzolai -- Dalmatian Ring Cookies

Buzzolai are ring-shaped cookies, and were an essential part of every festivity in Dalmatia, in part because their round shape brings coins to mind, and in part because they're quite tasty. Every family had a recipe for them, and they vary greatly. Here are a couple, one simple, for Christmas Eve, and one much more complex, for Christmas Day.

Buzzolai Bianchi

• 8 1/3 cups (1 k) all purpose unbleached flour
• 1 1/4 cups (250 g) sugar
• 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, whirred in a blender
• A pinch of cinnamon
• 2/3 cup (150 ml) olive oil
• 2 ounces baker's yeast (the active kind sold in the dairy section of the supermarket)
• Salt

Soak the whirred coriander in a little warm water for several hours. Crumble the yeast into some of the water and add sufficient flour to make a soft starter loaf; put it in a floured bowl in a warm place, cover it, and let it rise until it doubles in volume, about a half hour. Sift the remaining flour and work in the remaining ingredients, adding enough liquid to obtain a smooth elastic dough; knead it until it no longer sticks to the work surface, bubbles appear on the surface as you kneed it, and it is smooth and elastic. Shape the dough into rings about 4 inches (10 cm) in diameter and as thick as your finger, and put them in a draft-free warm place to rise until they have doubled in volume. Bake them for 20-30 minutes in a moderate (350 F, 175 C) oven.

Buzzolai Negri de Nadàl

These are much richer than the above, and were a traditional Christmas treat. You'll need:

• 8 1/3 cups (1 k) unbleached all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup (125 ml) warm olive oil
• 1 pound (500 g) honey
• 3 tablespoons bitter cocoa
• 2 opunces (50 g) minced candied citron
• 2 cloves, ground
• 1 teaspoon powdered cinnamon
• A pinch of freshly ground nutmeg
• 6 ounces (150 g) chopped walnuts
• 12 ounces (300 g) chopped almonds
• 1 tablespoon aquavit (I might substitute vodka or brandy)
• The zests of an orange and a lemon (both organic to avoid pesticides)
• A tablespoon active dry yeast
• A pinch of salt.

Heat the honey over a slow flame, stirring constantly, until it darkens in color. Take a large bowl and mix the flour with the yeast and the spices, then carefully mix in the honey and the remaining ingredients except for 1/3 of the almonds. Turn the mixture out onto your work surface and shape it into a number of rings, dipping them in the remaining almonds and arranging them on a greased cookie sheet. Bake them in a preheated 350 F (175 C) oven for a few minutes -- until the dough softens. Let them cool and store them in a jar for a week before enjoying them.

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Other Dalmatian Christmas Recipes

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