Trote del Vescovo & Alla Paesana -- Bishop's and Country Style Trout

Trote del Vescovo -- The Casentino Mountains of south-eastern Tuscany enjoy abundant rainfall, and consequently have many streams. This recipe is drawn from Giovanni Righi Parenti's La Cucina degli Etruschi, and though not strictly authentic (they didn't leave any recipes) is quite traditional, and they may well have enjoyed something similar. As is often the case with Italian recipes, Mr. Parenti doesn't say how many fish to prepare -- figure as many as you expect your diners to want.

Clean the trout and fill the cavities with a stuffing made by mincing a few slices of prosciutto fat (substitute seasoned lard if need be), the leaves of a short sprig of rosemary, carrot, onion, and day-old bread that has been dipped in dry white wine (the carrot and onion should be about the same volume, say 1/4 the total volume of the stuffing, while the bread should be predominant).

Heat equal volumes of sweet butter and olive oil in a griddle, and sauté a garlic clove until it is lightly browned in the fat, then discard it and sauté the fish, turning them with care, until they are done.

While they're cooking melt a few tablespoons of oil and sweet butter in a separate pot, and stir some white pepper and quarter cup or so of flour into the mixture; when it has browned lightly beat in a cup of dry white wine and continue to cook, stirring, until the sauce thickens.

Serve the fish with the sauce, and a dry white wine.

Don't want to use meat? This recipe, also from Mr. Righi Parenti, does not:

Take several trout and clean them. Pat them dry, and cook them in a few tablespoons of melted butter, being careful lest they stick to the bottom of the pot. While they're cooking mince a goodly amount of parsley and half a medium onion. Sprinkle the minced herbs over the fish, season well with salt and pepper, and when the fish is just about done (the eyes will be white, and the flesh along the spine will flake if pressed) sprinkle in a half a glass of dry white wine.

When the wine has evaporated serve the fish with the side dish of your choice, either potatoes, peas, or green beans sautéed in butter.

Variation: you can substitute the minced herbs and wine with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. In this case, serve the fish with boiled or steamed potatoes, sliced and seasoned with melted butter.

In either case you'll want a flavorful white, for example a robust Orvieto Classico, to accompany your fish.

A printer-friendly version of the above.

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