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Risotto alle Telline -- Risotto with Wedge Shells


This is a simple risotto from Genova, in Liguria, which nicely combines the bounty of the sea with the richness of the mountains immediately inland. To prepare it you'll need:

  • 3 1/4 pounds (1.5 k) wedge shells (should you not find them, use small hard-shell clams, or golden carpet shells clams)
  • 3 cups short grained rice
  • 1 clove garlic
  • 1/4 onion, minced
  • A small carrot
  • A 6-inch celery rib
  • 1/3 cup dried porcino mushrooms
  • Pepper to taste
  • Simmering water (figure a quart)
  • Tomato sauce
  • A small chunk of unsalted butter

Soak the dried mushrooms in warm water for a half hour, then drain and chop them.

Soak and purge the clams (see instructions). Drain them and cook them in the simmering water for a few minutes, until they open, then drain them in a colander, catching the liquid in a bowl. Remove and discard the shells of the clams, and filter the liquid they cooked in, then return it to the fire.

Mince the herbs. Simmer them in another pot, and when the onion begins to brown, add the clams, mushrooms, a little broth, and season the mixture with pepper to taste. When the mixture returns to a boil add the rice, and cook, adding clam broth as it is absorbed; when the rice is almost done mix a little tomato sauce into the last ladle of liquid and add it too (if you run out of clam broth, use hot water instead). Stir the butter into the rice, let it melt, and serve the risotto.

Note: if one of the shellfish fails to open upon being cooked, do not eat it! It was already dead when it went into the pot, and eating it could make you quite sick.

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