This is a specialty of the town of Nereto, near Teramo, in Abruzzi. The recipe is drawn from Alessandro Molinari Pradelli's La Cucina Abruzzese. To serve six:

• 3 1/3 pounds (1.5 k) leg of kid or lamb, cut into pieces
• 1/3 cup olive oil
• A hot pepper, shredded
• A pound (450 g) of bell peppers
• An onion, finely sliced
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 10 ounces (250 g) baby onions, a few stuck with cloves
• 1 1/3 pounds (600 g) ripe tomatoes, blanched, peeled, seeded, drained, and chopped

Wash the pieces of meat and pat them dry. Stem, seed, and rib the peppers, and sauté them in half the oil in a pot, over a brisk flame. Heat a terracotta pot and sauté the sliced onion and the hot pepper in the remaining oil. Once the onion wilts add the meat and brown it, stirring the pieces about as they cook. Once they have browned add two ladles of boiling water, check salt, cover, and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. After about two hours add the white wine, the baby onions, the tomato pulp, and the peppers. Cook for about 15 minutes more, and serve steaming hot.

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