Minestra di Piselli -- Pea Soup

One generally finds peas either in pasta sauces, or as a second course in Italy. So this is a little unusual, with the natural sweetness of the peas balanced by deft saltiness of pancetta; if you make it with care it will convince even those who generally turn their noses up at peas.

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• A bunch of parsley, half chopped and the other half minced
• 2 medium onions, finely sliced
• 1/2 cup rice or pasta for soups, along the lines of ditaloni (they're shaped like thimbles)
• 6 ounces (150 g) pancetta, diced
• A 6-ounce (150 g; drained weight) can chopped tomatoes
• Salt
• 1 1/8 pounds (500 g) frozen or, ideally, freshly shelled peas
• 1 quart (1 l) boiling water

Put the peas (thawed if they were frozen) in a pot with water to cover with salt, chopped parsley, and 2 tablespoons of oil. Simmer them for 25 minutes, adding water if need be to keep them from drying out.

Heat the remaining oil in a soup pot and gild the onions; when they are a rich golden color, add the pancetta. Once the pancetta has browned, stir in the minced parsley, tomato, and a little salt; simmer the sauce for about 15 minutes.

Blend 2/3 of the peas and stir them into the soup pot. Add the boiling water, check seasoning, and simmer at a slow boil for 15 minutes. Add the rice or pasta and continue to cook, stirring occasionally lest the pasta stick to the bottom and burn, until the pasta or rice is at the proper al dente stage. Add the remaining peas a few minutes before the pasta/rice is done, and serve garnished with a little more finely minced parsley.

In terms of a wine, a white will be nice. Something crisp, but also flavorful, for example an unoaked Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli Venezia Giulia. As an accompaniment, a tossed salad, in a 1-course meal, with crusty bread, or perhaps a piccata di vitello, with salad and crusty bread.

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