Returning to matters at hand, the temperatures have suddenly shot up into the mid 30s (C, that's 90s F) throughout northern Italy, and Florence's major hospital was overwhelmed by people suffering from heat prostration; the paper said they were setting up cots in the corridors of the emergency room. One option when it gets like this if you're in Florence is to visit Fiesole, the town just north of the city atop a high hill. Another is to visit La Certosa, the Carthusian monastery perched on a hill just past Galluzzo, on the way to Siena. It's a fascinating place; the Carthusians withdrew from the world to pray and work, following St. Benedict's rule with extraordinary vigor and producing spectacular handcrafts, in particular inlays. Each monk had a small apartment rather than a cell, with a room where he worked and took his meals, and another where he slept and prayed; the apartments are arranged around the main cloister, and since the hill is steep-sided the complex looks very much like a fortress. La Certosa is open to the public now because the Carthusians turned it over to the Cistercians in 1958, and the Cistercians are quite happy to give tours. They're free, though contributions are welcome, especially in light of the fact that the Italian Government is charging them a hefty rent to act as caretakers of a national monument.

And monument it is; it was founded in 1342 at the behest of Niccolò Acciaioli, chief advisor to King Roberto of Naples, and became quite wealthy thanks to donations from Florentine families (Artusi notes that one of the Medici Dukes was much smitten by their soup), accumulating a rich collection of artworks, most of which were confiscated and removed during the Napoleonic suppression of 1810. What remains? The building complex, which is remarkably peaceful and harmonious, and, for the artistically inclined, lots of renaissance frescos in the church of San Lorenzo and the Della Robbia medallions in the cloister.

Practicalities: It's open daily except Mondays, 9 to 12 and 3 to 6. To reach it, either drive, following the signs for Siena and the Firenze Certosa exit of the A1 highway, or take the 37 bus, which leaves from Piazza Santa Maria Novella. The visit will take a couple of hours, or more, if you want to relax and enjoy the peace and quiet. Last thing: Florence's bus company, ATAF, has put together an excellent site with detailed maps, timetables, and notes on the things to see along the bus routes. A good place to visit when planning a trip to the region.

A presto,
Kyle Phillips
Webweaver, About Italian Cuisine

Thoughts on Italian food
On Italian wine
On living in Italy
Send a card from the Italian Cuisine Post Office, or browse the photos!

Subscribe to the Newsletter
Name	Email