La Festa del Maiale

In Introducing Migliaccio di Romagna, a rich pig's blood pudding that's no longer easy to come by because the sale of fresh blood is frowned upon by the Italian ministry of health (it spoils easily), Pellegrino Artusi says,

"The pig, with the variety of its meat and the techniques that can be used to prepare the cuts, has as many different tastes as there are days in a year. It's up to the reader to decide which is best; I just wanted to touch on the so-called pig's wedding, because even a pig can make people celebrate, though, as is the case with the miser, only when he's dead.

"The landowners and farmers of Romagna butcher pigs at home; it's an occasion for more merriment than usual, and the young people live it up. It's also the occasion to remember friends, relatives, and people to whom one owes debts, sending, for example, three or four pork chops to one family, a lobe of the liver to another, and a bowl of good migliaccio to a third; the families that are so graced respond in kind. You may object, 'It's like lending bread and getting flour back,' but these are customs that maintain the bonds of friendship among families. (Drawn from The Art of Eating Well, published by Random House)"

Artusi's farmers and landowners would have celebrated their pig's weddings in late fall, most likely sometime between November and December -- a century ago butchering was as seasonal as any other agricultural activity, with lambs being butchered in early spring, poultry and rabbits year round (I expect), and pigs in the fall. They would have preserved much of the meat from their pigs for use throughout the year by turning it into sausages, prosciutto, and other cured cuts such as capocollo (cured shoulder but). Though there are some people who still cure pork on their own, it's an exacting task that requires experience and meat from a freshly butchered animal, not to mention space. Because of this few Italians who don't live on farms make their own salamis, prosciutti or sausages any more. There is, however, a notable increase in the amount of pork in the markets during the winter, and people use it much more frequently than they do in the summer months.

How? It finds its way into all sorts of things, from antipasti to desserts (mostly in the form of shortening now that blood is no longer sold). Here are a number of recipes, some on the site and some not:

Recipes on Site:

• Salumi
  About cold cuts, prosciutto, salame, sausages and pancetta (among others)
• Spuma di Prosciutto
  A light paté made with ham that's perfect on toasted bread.
• Agliata
  A rich spread made with garlic and cured lard (don't blanch) that's excellent on toasted bread.
• Arancini di Riso al Prosciutto Cotto
  Rice croquettes with a quick, easy ham filling.
• Mozzarella wrapped in Eggplant, Prosciutto & Cheese
  Tasty morsels that will wow your guests.
• Zuppa Con L'Osso del Prosciutto
  A hearty vegetable soup made with bread and a ham bone, from Montalcino.
• Minestra di Verza e Salsicce
  A hearty cabbage and sausage soup from the Veneto region.
• Penne All'Arrabbiata
  A richer version of the signature dish of many Roman trattorie, with pancetta and onions.
• Spaghetti alla Carbonara
  A bacon and eggs sauce sounds odd, but wait until you try it.
• Penne alla Fiesolana
  A cream sauce for penne, with prosciutto and peas. Quick, and works with tortellini too, though that's more of a winter thing.
• Spaghetti dell'Antonia
  A zesty broccoli-and-pancetta based sauce.
• Sugo di Maiale
  A good pork-based meat sauce for pasta.
• Maccheroncini al Prosciutto
  A quick, easy, and hearty baked pasta dish -- good pizzeria food.
• Risotto con le Salsicce
  A hearty risotto made with sausages and laced with tomato -- perfect for winter.
• Fegatelli alla Guerrando
  Elisabetta's Uncle Guerrando's fegatelli will make a convert out of even the most avowed liver hater.
• Fagioli all'Uccelletto con Salsicce
  Tomatoey beans and sausages are an inspired combination.
• Braciole di Maiale alla Calabrese
  Pork chops rubbed with hot pepper and fennel, and grilled.
• Maiale con i Funghi Porcini
  Stewed pork in a rich porcino mushroom sauce.
• Spezzatino di Maiale
  A tomatoey, olive-rich pork stew.
• Spezzatino di Maiale
  A simple, hearty pork stew with beans.
• Carne da Galera
  Pork shoulder butt stewed with herbs and vineagr: A classic dish from the days before refrigeration, and very tasty now too.
• Pancetta alla Griglia
  An unusual recipe for uncured pancetta, rubbed with spices & herbs, and grilled.
• Arista al Latte
  A wonderful, lemony way to prepare pork loin that can also be done ahead.
• Lombo di Maiale Ripieno Arrosto
  Pork loin, stuffed and roasted -- your guests will be impressed!
• Purpette a Ra Passula
  A Calabrian specialty, meatballs with raisins in their harts, which go perfectly with broccoli rabe.
• Cinghiale fra Due Fuochi
  Wild boar (or other game) marinated and stewed with the marinade, will work beautifully with polenta.
• Porchetta
  Roast pig (here a small one), an ideal picnic food and also quite good as part of a festive, though not tremendously elegant, meal. Larger pigs, roasted the same way, are sliced to stuff sandwiches in fairs.

A few things off site:

• Lasagna with Chicken & Sausages
  An interesting recipe, with instructions for preparing the pasta too. From the folks at The Artisan.
• Rosticciana
  The classic Tuscan way of preparing pork spareribs. Measurements in grams, though easy to figure out (454 is a pound, 25 about an ounce).

Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips

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Text & photo © Kyle Phillips.