Risotto Revisited
The hallmarks of a good risotto are a creamy, moist-without-being-soupy texture and properly al dente grains of rice that are neither mushy nor crunchy. While reaching this result is easy, especially with practice, it does require care and last-minute attention; for this reason risotti served in restaurants are rarely as successful as those made at home.
Though rice was introduced to Italy by the Arabs who dominated Sicily and parts of the Southern mainland in the late Middle Ages (arancini di riso come to mind), the cereal proved best suited to the vast marshy regions of the Po Valley, and was enthusiastically adopted by the residents of the Veneto region, Lombardia and Piemonte.
What rice to use? You should choose either round or semi-round rice; the best rices for making risotti are Arborio, Carnaroli and Vialone Nano. Long grained rice such as Patna won't do, because the grains will stay separate. Nor should you use minute rice -- it won't absorb the condiments, and again the grains will remain separate.
How to go about it? Almost all risotti are made following the same procedure, with minor variations. Begin by mincing a small volume of onion and whatever other herbs the recipe calls for. Sauté the mixture in abundant olive oil or unsalted butter, and when it has browned remove it with a slotted spoon to a plate, leaving the drippings in the pot. Then stir in the rice and sauté it too until it becomes translucent (this will take 7-10 minutes), stirring constantly to keep it from sticking. Return the sautéed seasonings to the pot and stir in a third of a cup of dry white or red wine that you have previously warmed (if it is cold you will shock the rice, which will flake on the outside and stay hard at the core). Once the wine has evaporated completely, add a ladle of simmering broth; stir in the next before all the liquid is absorbed, because if the grains get too dry they will flake. Continue cooking, stirring and adding broth as the rice absorbs it, until the rice barely reaches the al dente stage (if you want your risotto firm, time your additions of broth so that the rice will finish absorbing the broth when it reaches this stage; if you want it softer, time the additions so there will still be some liquid left). At this point stir in a tablespoon of butter and the grated cheese (if the recipe calls for it), cover the risotto, and turn off the flame. Let it sit, covered, for two to three minutes, and serve.
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Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
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