Bellavista
Bellavista means nice view, and if ever a
winery was aptly named, this is it: It's perched on a hill, which drops off
onto a vibrant green plain dotted with fields, towns and churches, while in the
distance lake Iseo shimmers against a backdrop of the Alps. Vittorio Moretti
got into wine-making by accident in the 1970's, when he wanted to make a few
bottles for friends and the business associates he met through the family
construction firm. He discovered that he liked making wine, and decided to do
it seriously, by opening an estate.
They began planting Pinot Noir, at a density of 5,000 vines per hectare (this would be considered average today, but the ispettorato agricolo, the local office of the department of agriculture, considered it dangerously high). At least they thought they were planting Pinot Noir. "Things were haphazard then," recalls Mattia Vezzola, winemaker and manager of the estate. "What we were told was Pinot Noir turned out to be Chardonnay."
More than 20 years have gone by, and now
things are certainly not haphazard: Franciacorta is ideally suited for
sparkling white wines, and the wineries, which follow the traditional
bottle-fermentation technique developed by Dom Pérignon, produce Italy's
best. Indeed, if you read the wine press, you sometimes come across articles
that feature "face-offs" between the wines of Franciacorta and those of
Champagne. While it's true that some of the Franciacorta wineries hastened the
learning process by hiring personnel from the great French houses, competition
is not what it's all about, at least not for Bellavista.
Quite the contrary: "I see Champagne as a possible model for Franciacorta," says Mr. Vezzola, who also has ties with the Enological Institute of Epernay. "A place to learn techniques that will allow us to draw the best from the grapes, and thus provide the best possible interpretation of Franciacorta. There was a tasting not too long ago in Switzerland, with 15 Champagnes and three Franciacorte. Bellavista placed first, but what really pleased me was that the tasters realized it was not a Champagne. It's very important that Franciacorta develop and maintain its own distinct identity."
In order to develop this identity further, Bellavista has undertaken a clonal selection program to produce vines that will adapt better to the local terroir. They're working primarily in-house, with 80% of the Pinot Noir vines involved coming from their own vineyards.
"But wait," some might object -
"Pinot Noir is French."
True. Up until 1960 or so, the farmers in the Franciacorta region (including Vittorio Moretti's grandfather) made wines with whatever vines they had. There were no established local traditions, and therefore those who decided to take up wine-making seriously were able to choose the vines they wanted to work with, and tailor the DOC regulations to fit their vines (this would not have been possible in Tuscany or Piemonte, where the DOC regulations reflect established traditions). Since Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc produce the great sparkling wines of France, it seemed natural to select them. In retrospect the producers chose well, because the vines have adapted superbly to their new home.
Franciacorta also produces some red wines, which are quite international in character - they're made primarily from Cabernet and Merlot, again selected because there were no local traditions. However, the DOC also specifies small percentages of Barbera and Nebbiolo, which confer freshness and a hint of strength to the wine. There is, finally, a Franciacorta still white wine, made from Chardonnay and, sometimes, Pinot Blanc. However, as you might expect, the wineries of the region devote most of their efforts to producing white sparkling wines, not white still wines.
This is certainly
true at Bellavista, where 90% of the estate's energies go into sparkling wines.
The estate had, until recently, aged most of its wines for at least three years
in tunnels bored into the hillside before performing the dégorgement
(the final step in making sparkling wine the traditional way, when the cork and
the sediment brought against it by the rémuage are removed, a bit of
sweet wine is added for the yeasts to ferment and provide carbonation, and the
new cork is added), but has now extended the time to four years (this required
extending the tunnels where the wines are kept 300 meters - one of the
advantages of also owning a construction company). There's quite a range of
wines:
- Franciacorta
Bellavista Cuvée Brut: This is the standard spumante, assembled from
a blend of more than thirty different white wines (most quality sparkling white
wines, including those from Champagne, are assemblages), some of which are aged
in wood to give added complexity. It's an extremely elegant wine, pale yellow
with green highlights, with fine perlage, an enticing bouquet, and is elegant
on the palate as well.
- Franciacorta
Bellavista Gran Cuvée Brut Rosé: In this case the skins of
the Pinot noir grapes are allowed to macerate with the wine for a short while,
to give it a characteristic onionskin color. The wine is assembled from at
least ten different wines, some of which are barrel-fermented The perlage is
quite fine, the bouquet has hints of wild strawberry, apples and orange rind,
and the taste is elegant, with hints of blackcurrant and almond on the finish.
- Franciacorta
Bellavista Gran Cuvée Brut: More than a quarter of the wine ages in
barriques before the assemblage. Pale green in color, fine, persistent perlage,
the bouquet has strong floral overtones, and on the palate it is pleasant and
quite persistent.
- Franciacorta
Bellavista Gran Cuvée Pas Operé: This wine comes from the
older vineyards of the estate that have south or southeast exposures, and
spends five years in the cellars before it's released. It's considered by many
to be Bellavista's best wine. Straw yellow with gold overtones, astonishingly
fine perlage. On the nose it's enticing, with an extraordinary mix of wood,
vanilla, flowers spice. On the palate it's full, with a delightfully complex
mix of flavors, and persistent.
- Franciacorta
Bellavista Gran Cuvée Satèn: Bellavista's most feminine wine,
made exclusively from barrel-fermented Chardonnay. Straw yellow with gilded
overtones, foamy perlage. The bouquet has peach flowers, honey, and walnuts,
while on the palate it is full and well rounded.
Bellavista also makes a number of still wines, which I will simply list, since I only tasted the basic Rosso di Franciacorta (it was good, enticing on the nose, and full on the palate, with a little less fruit than I'd have expected, but very well rounded, with smooth velvety tannins and a clean persistent finish).
| The Red Wines | The White Wines |
| Rosso di Franciacorta | Bianco di Franciacorta |
| Bellavista Solesine (85%Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, from a single vineyard) | Bianco di Franciacorta Uccellanda (barrel-fermented Chardonnay) |
| Bellavista Casotte (Pinot Noir) | Convento dell'Annunciata Bianco di Franciacorta (barrel-fermented Chardonnay, the estate's flagship still white) |
| Convento dell'Annunciata Zuanne (Merlot; the estate's flagship red) |
"Goals for the future?" I asked.
"No different from those of 20 years ago," replied Mattia Vezzola. "To realize the potential of Franciacorta."
They're doing a good
job.
Franciacorta is very pretty, with much to see - churches, including the 10th century San Pietro in Lamosa & castles, the wineries, Lake Iseo, the Alps…. Should you decide to visit Bellavista, call ahead to let them know you are coming (Tel I-30 7760276, Fax I-30 7760386). Exit the Milano-Venezia highway at Rovato, just west of Brescia, then follow the signs for Iseo. After about 5 km you will come to Via di Bellavista (to the left), with signs for Bellavista. As for where to eat,Gualtiero Marchesi's restaurant is on the other side of the hill, at L'Albereta, which is also a luxurious 5 star hotel. A visit to Gualtiro Marchesi does however require a certain amount of planning and the proper mental attitude - he is one of Italy's top chefs.
For something less charged with gastronomic tension, but very good, try the Ristorante la Mongolfiera di Sodi, Via Cavour 7, Erbusco, Tel: I-30 7268303 (closed Thursdays). You have to ring to get in, and once you have passed through the gate, enter the restaurant proper through a carved wooden door that looks Venetian. The décor is quite elegant, with crystal goblets and silver underplates.
I ordered hand-rolled tagliatelle with an asparagus & spinach sauce, and while I awaited their arrival was brought a pair of crostini as an appetizer, one with liver paté, and the other with very finely sliced lard prepared according to a traditional family recipe - tasty, somewhat salty with just a touch of spices. The pasta was good, and the sauce had lots of asparagus tips, which were nicely balanced by the spinach, and just a tiny bit of tomato. As a second course I asked for stewed beef in a vegetable sauce, and was brought an odd looking toothed fork, designed "to allow me to eat the meat and the sauce together." It worked; the meat was very tender and simply broke apart, while the sauce was a faint orange that suggested carrots, and had a pleasant celery-like cleanness to it. The rolls were warmed (a rarity in Italy), and the butter (another rarity) was freshly scraped curleyques. The wine? The sommelier suggested a 1995 Terre di Franciacorta Rosso, by Ferghettina, a new winery he thinks is going to go places. I'd have to agree; the wine was quite enjoyable - spicy on the nose, with blackcurrants and berries mixed with vanilla, on the palate good fruit and well-rounded, slightly dusty tannins with a bit of bite to them, and a nice long finish. Dessert was a pair of crepes with stewed pears, in a kirsch sauce. The cost? 65,000 lire - quite reasonable considering the setting and the food.
More on Franciacorta DOCG and some recipes to enjoy with it.
Good food &
Drink,
Kyle Phillips
