A Dinner to Remember
Several restaurants in the Barbaresco region put on a promotional event in association with the Producer's Association: A dinner, with 29 different 1994 Barbareschi. How could I pass it up?
But first, a few words on Barbaresco.
If Barolo is the King of Wines, immensely powerful with huge structure and towering austerity, Barbaresco is its Queen, still towering and powerful, but gentler and more easily approachable. A great Barolo demands a great occasion, whereas a great Barbaresco can lend greatness to a fine occasion.
Both wines are made from Nebbiolo, Piemonte's noble red grape. However, the terroirs are different – the Barolo region has more clay and more microelements, whereas the Barbaresco region tends to have more sand and clay. Also, Barbaresco is aged less – two years for the normal, three for the riserva, and four for the riserva speciale, as opposed to Barolo's three years for the normal, four for the riserva, and five for the Riserva speciale. Traditionally Barbaresco tended to be more rounded, with finesse, whereas Barolo tended to be more tannic, requiring longer (in some cases decades) for the raw power of the wine to meld into what many describe as a "fist of steel in a velvet glove." This is not to say that Barbaresco is a light wine – by comparison with almost anything other than a classic Barolo it is a big wine, and is in any case well suited to roasts, braised dishes, and aged cheeses. Note the word classic: a producer I talked with observed that the recent trend towards softer Barolo that is more easily approachable, and ready to drink sooner (a trend exemplified, for example, by Elio Altare's wines) has led some Barolo to resemble Barbaresco. I think he's right, and it's worth thinking about.
To return to the dinner, of the 22 I tasted (my palate gave out on me before we got through), two were reduced, smelling vaguely of burnt matches and swamp gas. I won't say which because the problem could have been a bad cork, or poor storage outside the winery – in other words, it wasn't necessarily the producer's fault. Of the rest, these stood out (in no particular order):
- Mocagatta:
Nice deep brick red, delicate lush bouquet with hints of roses, vanilla and
spice, as well as heat. A wine to swish and sniff. Full on the palate, with
rich cherry and berry fruit flavors. The tannins are chewy, and though well
rounded, could use a little more time – they're still a bit angular. Long
clean finish.
- Cascina
Luisin: Deep brick red, elegant, complex bouquet with roses and floral
notes, and hints of peaches as well, supported by vinious undertones. One can
spend quite some time sniffing this wine. On the palate it's full, with nice
fruit flavors, including stewed cherries, dusty tannins that are somewhat
chewy, and a long clean finish. Again, it could use more time. Cascina Luisin
and Mocagatta are contiguous properties, owned by cousins, and both include
sections of the Rabajá Vineyard, which is one of the best in Barbaresco.
- Lano: Brick
red tending towards orange, Roses and floral notes mixed with spice on the
bouquet, which is powerful and complex. Again, a nice wine to sniff. On the
palate it's full with nice fruit, cherries, and hints of licorice. The tannins
are still slightly angular and could use a couple of more years to develop.
Nice clean finish.
- Villa il
Re: Deep pigeon-blood ruby red, and powerful nose with blackberries,
currants and woodfruit mixed with vanilla and spice. On the palate it's lush
and well rounded, with strong fruit flavors mixed with wood, delicate
well-rounded tannins, and a clean finish. This wine was by far the most
international wine present, and perhaps that's why it stood out.
Was there anybody I would have liked to try? Well, Angelo Gaja, whose property is about 200 yards from Cascina Luisin's, was absent. On the other hand, considering the cost of his wines and the fact that each of the producers participating donated several cases, I can understand why he didn't participate. I would also have liked to try Cigliutti's Barbaresco, because I found their Barbera intriguing when I tasted it at Pietro Montisi's restaurant in Novello.
To close, a recipe that might come in handy if you're feeling truly EXTRAVIGANT:
Brasato al Barolo
- 3 pounds beef, either rump roast or a similar cut
- A bottle of Barolo or similar full bodied tannic wine
- A large onion, or 2 if you prefer.
- A large carrot
- A stalk of celery
- A bay leaf
- Peppercorns to taste
- String
- 2 tablespoons butter and 2 tablespoons prosciutto fat (if need be use just butter)
- 1/4 cup cognac (optional)
- Salt to taste.
Begin the day before you plan to cook the meat. Slice the onion, celery, and carrot, and put them in a bowl with the meat, laurel, and peppercorns. Pour the wine over the mixture and marinate it until the next day, turning the meat occasionally.
Remove the meat, reserving the marinade, and pat the meat dry. Strain the marinade, bring it to a boil, and cook it until it's reduced by half. In the meantime, tie the meat with string so it keeps its shape and brown it in a pot with the butter and prosciutto fat. Once it's well browned on all sides, sprinkle the cognac over the meat, if you're using it, and light it. When the flames have gone out, season the meat with salt, pour the reduced marinade over it, add the vegetables that it marinated with, cover everything, and simmer until the meat is done, about two hours. When the meat is done remove it to a platter and remove the string. Remove and blend the vegetables (discard the bay leaf). Degrease the sauce, stir the vegetables back into it, pour it over the meat, and serve. The meat should be so tender it could be carved with a spoon.
A printer-friendly version of this recipe.
Good Food &
Drink,
Kyle Phillips
