Cucina Brianzola
"The view from
Casa Cavalletti in Monticello is like nothing I've ever seen: In the distance
there's Milano's Duomo, and on the horizon the mountains of Parma and Bologna
form a blue line. We're on top of a hill; to the right a magnificent sight,
fertile plains, rocky hillocks, and several lakes; to the left something
equally beautiful and quite the opposite, the rolling hills of Madonna di
Montevecchia. And straight ahead beautiful Lombardia, ablaze with rich greens,
and a boundless sky...
"In this immense sky a storm occasionally brews up
four or five miles away, black clouds with rolling thunder while all around is
calm, and in the space of a few minutes we can watch the storm advance,
retreat, fade, or surround us. The water falls in torrents, terrifying bursts
of thunder shake the buildings, and the brilliant cleanliness of the air
increases our delight.
"This all happens in the space of two hours, and now
we can make out the windows of houses several miles away."
Stendhal, who wrote these passages in 1817, would likely be distressed to see how much the urbanization of Milano has changed the view from Brianza, but he would likely still be delighted by the cooking. Though this section of Lombardia is primarily known for risotto alla milanese and cotoletta alla milanese, they're just the tip of an iceberg. The cuisine is rich, varied, and as often occurs in Italy, virtually unknown beyond the regional boundaries. As is the case in much of the north, pasta plays second fiddle to polenta and risotti in the first course dishes. Second courses are either meats or fish; according to Ottorina Bozzi, author of Vecchia Brianza in Cucina, beef appeared on the table only on festive occasions; those who could afford to eat meat regularly generally bought pork for day-to-day use, while those who had access to poultry would slaughter birds that sickened while there was still meat on the bones, or eat old hens who no longer laid eggs. In terms of vegetables, nothing too exotic -- primarily onions, cabbage, mushrooms, zucchini, potatoes, peppers, leeks, salad greens, and yellow squash (which closely resembles butternut squash in flavor). Though they are now considered side dishes, in the past they were often served with polenta as a main course (or the only course of the meal), and for this reason are generally well seasoned. Lombardia is renowned for its cheeses and they played a major part on the Brianzan tables, as did milk, which often took the place of broth in soups and such. The desserts, at least those that Ms. Bozzi describes, are fairly simple; most are fruit-based.
HAVING SAID ALL THIS, SOME RECIPES:
- Minestrone di Zucca Gialla per 8 Persone
Though yellow squash was considered poor people's fare in the past, it is both tasty and versatile, as you'll discover if you try this soup. - Risotto col Latte e Fagioli -- Risotto with Milk and
Beans
Cooking rice in milk is the traditional way in Brianza, a section of Lombardia not far from Milano. - Cassoeula D'Anatra
A rich, satisfying Milanese duck and cabbage stew. - Pollo alla Cacciatora con Funghi
A tasty variation on a classic quickly cooked dish. - Coniglio col Lauro
Rabbit delicately slow cooked in a pot with bay leaves and herbs. - Fagiolini in Umido
Rich hearty green beans that will work well as a side dish or with polenta as a main course. - Torta Ripiena di Frutta
One usually doesn't associate pies with Italy, but this certainly fits the bill and will work well on important occasions too. - Albicocche nelle Chicchere
An interesting apricot custard, and a variation on the theme made with peaches.
Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
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