La Cucina Abruzzese
The Regione Abruzzo has a reputation of being something of a wild land. Not entirely undeserved; inland it is mostly rugged mountains and valleys, and until not too long ago the primary economic activity was shepherding. It was even more important in the past, when shepherds would transfer their flocks from winter pastures in the lowlands further south to summer pastures in the Abruzzesi mountains -- a twice-yearly migration of millions of animals over trails as wide as modern highways. This transfer quite obviously helped the shepherds keep their flocks alive (further south pastures dry out in the summer). It also served to cement ties between the Abruzzo region, which was the farthest-flung and most isolated province of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, and the remainder of the country.
Indeed, it's likely no accident that the transumanza, as the migration was called, began to decline following the unification of Italy. In 1864 a law was passed that recognized the rights of the farmers whose lands were crossed (one might expect that many began to keep the sheep out to prevent their destroying the fields, or to charge tolls), and in 1908 Parliament reduced the number of migration routes to four.
With the decline of the transumanza the Abruzzo region became more isolated than it had been previously, an isolation that has only been broken since the War, in part though the construction of highways, and in part through the development of tourism -- summer mountaineering and winter skiing inland, and swimming, sunning and boating along the Adriatic coast, which is quite beautiful. People also come to enjoy the foods -- lamb and mutton, pecorino and goat's milk cheese, olive oil, wines, saffron (which has always been grown for use in medicines and dyes, but is now being used in the kitchens too), and hot peppers, locally known by a variety of names including diavolicchio (the little devil). Farro, the grain that fed the Roman legions, is also making a comeback. The cuisine? Like most peasant cuisines it's simple, but quite wholesome, especially in more modern interpretations that allow the use of some meat or oil (back in the peasant days there would have been little of either, nor much cheese for those who weren't well off). After lamb and mutton, pork was the meat of choice inland, with many people raising animals in a semi-wild state, allowing them to forage what they could find in the forests and butchering them in the fall. Along the coast, as one might expect, fish also plays a major part in the diet.
Enough talk! Food!
- Brodo di Porco con Zitone
Pork soup with greens and pasta is a hearty one-course meal reminiscent of wedding soup. - Bucatini all'Amatriciana
Few people realize this zesty tomato-based sauce is from the Abruzzo region, not Rome. - Cavatelli Con Cime di Rapa, Scampi e
Calamretti
A tasty seafood-based pasta that reveals the Abruzzo Region's ties with Puglia - Maccheroni alla Chitarra con Polpettine
A Classic feast-day dish from the Abruzzo region, much more than run-of-the-mill pasta with meatballs. - Gnocchetti con Orapi e Peperoncino
An interesting variation on the more classic gnocchi, with wild spinach and hot pepper. - Tiella
A rich vegetable casserole with eggplant and potatoes. - Ravioli di Nonna Ersilia
Unusual sweet ravioli laced with cinnamon. - Farro al Nero di Seppia
A tasty grain-based dish with squid and squid ink. - Agnello Cac' e Ove
The addition of eggs and cheese serves to bolster stewed lamb. - Baccalà in Graticola con Peperoni
Grilled (or broiled) baccalà with roasted peppers on the side. - Fiadoni di Ricotta
Ricotta-filled cookeies to close a feast
FINALLY, A FEW THINGS OFF THE NET:
FOOD
Mangia Mangia in
the Mountains
Corby Cummer's recollections of visiting the
Abruzzo region, and several recipes too. As always well written &
fun.
Panarda:
Rosemary Torigian's recollections of a wonderful feast on a wild and
stormy night in Abruzzo.
TRAVEL
The
Old Villages of the Abruzzo Region
And why they were
fortified. Short but interesting.
Abruzzo 2000
A neat site
for expatriate Abruzzesi throughout the world, with lots of information on
what's going on in the old country, tourist info, slide shows, genealogy, and
much more.
Castelli
Abruzzesi
There's lots to see!
Parco Nazionale
d'Abruzzo
One of Italy's most savage parks, with information
on getting there and accommodations too.
Le Grotte
Stiffe
Discover an underground river, complete with falls and
cataracts, in Abruzzo.
Pescara &
Chieti
For when you've had enough of exploring nature in
Abruzzo. Includes hotel info too.
Il Parco Nazionale
della Maiella
Another spectacular national park, with lodging
suggestions and lots of other advice.
Got more sites / recipes to suggest? Let me know!
Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
PS -- if you'd like to be kept abreast of what's happening on this site, and of what's going on in the world of Italian Cuisine and travel, sign up for my newsletter! Or, if you have a general Italian food or travel-related question or comment, post it on the Bulletin Board.
Previous Features
The
Recipe Index
Photo mine.
