Chianti Rufina
Dateline: 07/30/97
Had
Cosimo III been interested in natural beauty, rather than wine, when he
published the edict with which he established the boundaries of four of
Tuscany's great wine producing regions (Pomino, Chianti Classico, Carmignano,
and a section of the Upper Valdarno), he would still have mentioned Pomino (and
likely Rufina as well). It's hard to believe an area just a half hour's drive
from downtown Florence could be so wild.
Nor is this wildness just natural: the area was the stronghold of the Conti Guidi, who fought bitterly with Florence until the early 1400s. Following their defeat the watchtowers were transformed into farm houses, and the castles of the vanquished mined for building materials as the region became agricultural. In addition to a premium olive oil, it now produces Chianti Rufina, an extremely elegant red wine that also has excellent aging potential, and Pomino, another DOC wine that merits a brief aside. Though Cosimo mentioned Pomino, the town's present fame is due to Vittorio degli Albizi, who planted a number of French grapes on his lands in the 1850s. The Frescobaldis inherited the estates and continued to experiment with the grapes; in particular, Chardonnay has adapted very well and Pomino Bianco is superb. Pomino Rosso is also interesting: Though primarily made from Sangiovese, it contains Merlot and Cabernet (again introduced by Vittorio), and therefore resembles some Super Tuscans.
Though you can explore the region by following the valleys, the ridge crests
are much prettier. From Florence, take the road for Fiesole and continue north,
through fields and olive groves; after about 9 km turn right, towards Molin del
Piano. The building half hidden by evergreens on the hill to the left is Monte
Senario, a monastery founded by seven noble Florentines who withdrew to caves on
the site in 1231. The road winds up through forest and meadow, then the
landscape suddenly expands as you cross the ridge crest and look down into the
Val di Sieci. About a kilometer down the hill, you will see a sign for the
Santuario della Madonna Del Sasso, a sanctuary built where the Virgin appeared
to shepherdesses in 1484 and asked that a
chapel
be built that she might answer to people's prayers. The church is simple but
pleasant, and the view of the valley gives a tremendous feeling of peace.
Continue down the hill to the valley floor, and turn left to reach the Castello del Trebbio. Originally a watchtower built to keep an eye on a nearby castle belonging to the Conti Guidi, it was expanded into a country residence by the Pazzi family, who had Donatello do the crest in the courtyard. The Medicis confiscated the castle after the Pazzis tried to assassinate Lorenzo il Magnifico 1476 and expanded it further, adding a small hedge-ringed lawn, called a Botticellian Garden, where the family could gather together. Though the castle is a private residence, the cellars (XI C.) are open to the public, and quite beautiful, with botti where the estate's wines age, and an orciaia for olive oil. There is also a tasting room, and if you call ahead you may be able to see the family chapel, which has a copy of a fresco by Andrea del Castagno (the original is now in Florence). The restored farm implements scattered throughout the grounds are also intriguing.
Return to the main road, drive most of the way through Molin del Piano. Immediately after the school turn left onto Via Del Mannino; bear left at the fork and then right, up the hill. The pavement stops with the last houses, but the countryside is beautiful. Follow the road until you come to an intersection; cross it and you will have reached Villa Bossi, which the Gondi Family bought from the Tolomei Family in 1592. The present façade was added in the 1700s, and the grounds are quite pretty. Again, you can visit the cellars, which are very different from those of Castel Trebbio – here you will see long rows of botti, and there is a great feeling of peace.
When you leave Villa Bossi, bear right on the paved road, following the signs for Montebonello (at Monterifrassine the road doglegs to the left and goes down the hill, towards Vetrice). It may be getting near lunchtime; the Osteria La Casellina is about half-way down the hill; the cuisine is somewhat innovative and good, and the view from the terrace is delightful (cost 40,000/person). Once you reach Montebonello follow the signs for Dicomano, and after about 4 km turn left at the sign for Colognole. The road winds up through woods and fields to the vineyards of the Colognole estate, which is a pretty 18th century villa. The cellars are open to the public, and there is a trail Giotto is said to have hiked as a lad. The estate also hosts concerts in the evenings.
Return
to the main road and turn left; when you enter Dicomano bear right, up the hill,
following the signs for the archaeological zone. You should park where the sign
suggests and walk the last half mile; you will pass through an abandoned village
dominated by a once-prowd villa that is slowly collapsing. The archaeological
zone proper consists of the foundations of an Etruscan temple – dry-masonry
walls and little else. However, the Etruscans picked a magnificent site on a
ridge crest and the view of the underlying valleys is well worth the walk.
Return towards Florence, and turn right, just after Scopeti, towards Pomino. The town is non-discript, but has a pretty Romanesque Pieve, San Bartolomeo. There is also the Castello di Pomino (on the right, a km out of town), which is quite pretty. It's also an important winery, and can be toured during working hours. Beyond pomino the road becomes much wilder, passing through thick pine groves before reemerging into meadows. At Borselli turn right, towards Pontassieve, and follow the road until you reach the turn-off for Nipozzano, to the right. The castle began life as a defensive stronghold in the Xth century, and later attracted villagers who built around its walls. The view from the battlements is spectacular, and you can also visit the cellars, where some of Frescobaldi's more prestigious wines are aged. The town is also quite pretty.
Once you have explored it, return to the main road, and bear right, towards Pontassieve, and from thence to Florence.
The Wineries are open weekdays and Saturdays, and one Sunday each month. You should, however, call ahead if you can, especially if you would like to arrange a tasting. If dialing from outside of Italy, you must add the county code, 39, and drop the 0 from the area code.
- Castello del Trebbio: (055) 8300051
- Tenuta Bossi: (055) 8317830
- Azienda Agricola Colognole: (055) 8319870 (remember to ask about concerts)
- Castello di Pomino: (055) 27141
- Castello di Nipozzano: (055) 27141
- Osteria La Casellina: (055) 8397580
Have a great time!
My thanks to Marchese Ferdinando Frescobaldi for
providing me with the first photograph.
Kyle Phillips
