Un Pranzo Versiliese
Versilia is in a funny way
neither fish nor fowl: It's the plain between the Apuans and the sea north of
Pisa, and is marked as Tuscany on the map. However, until the middle of the
18th century the area was separated from the region by malaria-ridden
swamplands, and, like the Valle di Luni inland, had much more in common with
Liguria than it did with the rest of Tuscany. Large scale public works drained
the swamps and eliminated the malaria in the mid-1800s, while the construction
of railroads provided the area with quick, easy links to Florence, Rome, and
other major population centers. Blessed with nice beaches, beautiful
landscapes, and a mild climate year round, the Versilian town of Viareggio
rapidly became a major resort with posh hotels and bathing establishments that
attracted the international jet set, including the Czars, who visited during
the winter months.
Viareggio and the rest of Versilia are still a resort area today, though the clientele has changed: It's now primarily local, Florentines and Lucchesi who come to catch rays on the weekends -- during the week, except in August, one sees primarily mothers or grandparents with small children -- or to enjoy the night life. And though the ties with Tuscany are stronger, Versilia is still non-Tuscan in a many ways, beginning with the local accent, which differs considerably from what one encounters either inland or south, towards Pisa.
SOME RECIPES
Cipolle con le Sarde
Onions with
sardines, a hearty dish that's perfect for perking up a flagging
appetite.
Acciughe Fresche per 20 Giorni
Fresh anchovies quickly pickled with onions are delightful with boiled
beans.
Sbroscia della Vecchia Versilia
True peasant food, a simple squash and bean soup.
Zuppa di Cavolo Nero su Fette di Pane
all'Aglio
Bread-and-kale soup with garlic, a Versilian
variation on ribollita.
Gnocchi di Zucca alla Versiliese
Potatoes are the most common base for gnocchi, but not the only one. Here
squash takes their place.
Risotto con Moscardini e Scampi
A
tasty seafood risotto with baby octopus and scampi.
Risotto con Arselle Alla Pescatora
Arselle are tiny clams, and this is an extremely tasty risotto.
Spaghetti con le Vongole alla Viareggina
Spaghetti with a slightly tomatoey clam sauce.
Spaghetti o Riso al Tonno
A hearty
tuna sauce that's perfect over pasta or rice.
Sformato di Tonno a Freddo
A tasty,
refreshing tuna-and-potato pie.
Lessatura del Polpo per Ridurlo
Tenero
How to get tasty, tender boiled octopus every
time.
Cacciucco alla Viareggina
Viareggio's
fish stew is milder than waht's made in Livorno.
Acciughe in Forno
Baked anchovies, a
surprisingly tasty (and inexpensive) treat.
Baccalà All'Usanza dei
Pescatori
Fried Baccalà with a zesty garlic-and-rosemary
sauce.
Tonno Fresco al Cartoccio
Tuna baked
al cartoccio (in paper), Viareggio style.
Triglie al Cartoccio
Reef mullet,
seasoned, wrapped in paper, and grilled.
Triglie alla Viareggina
Mullet,
Viareggio style: stewed in tomato sauce.
Frittata di Aglio e
Prezzemolo
Garlic, parsley and cheese: simple, rustic, and
satisfying.
Anatra Muta alle Foglie d'Olivo
Roast
duck, with sprigs of olive that impart a special something.
Coniglio in Umido
Rabbit, stewed with
rosemary, garlic and tomato.
Coniglio Disossato Ripieno
Boned,
stuffed rabbit, an extraordinary delight.
Spezzatino di Maiale
A simple,
hearty pork stew with beans.
Agnello con le Olive Nere
The
bitterness of black olives nicely complements the richness of lamb.
Peperonata Rustica
Tasty, simple
stewed peppers.
Melanzane Fredde
Chilled eggplant,
which will work nicely as an antipasto or side dish.
Insalata di Carote Crude
An unusual
and tasty carrot salad.
Crostata di Mela con Crema
A baked
apple crostata.
Torta Rustica di Mandorle
An overdose
of almonds! But tasty.
Il Pieno Natale
A desert offered by
the nuns of a Benedictine convent to their Christmas guests.
SOME TRAVEL INFO:
Tuscan Beaches: A rundown beginning with Bocca di Magra, north of Carrara, and continuing south to Orbetello.
Esplorazioni Lunigiane: Both Versilia and the nearby Val di Luni belonged to the Malaspina family in the Middle Ages: Lots of castles, Romanesque churches, and enchanting countryside.
Il Museo Etnografico: A Fascinating museum in Villafranca in Lunigiana.
Il Carnevale! Carnival is a time for fun and merrymaking. Venice celebrates with costume balls, and Viareggio with a parade.
Le Cinque Terre: Liguria's Five Towns are five jewels. And they also make fine wines.
Vermentino dei Colli di Luni
An exciting,
considerably undervalued Tusco-Ligurian white wine.
MORE ON VERSILIA FROM THE NET:
Calzimperio
A thick tomato sauce with eggs cooked in it -- wither sunny-side-up or
mixed in, as you prefer. The authors say it's from Versilia, but I've
encountered variations on the theme all over Italy.
Versilia
and the Coast
A nice site with information on towns and places
to stay. In English!
Riviera Toscana
A nice travel site dedicated to Versilia, with lots of photos and rather
cursory notes on what to see and do. It does have lots of hotel info, however,
and a list of the bathing establishments.
Buon appetito!
Kyle Phillips
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Photo by Kyle Phillips.
