Farro: Grain of the Legions

Grano Farro has a long and glorious history: it is the original grain from which all others derive, and fed the Mediterranean and Near Eastern populations for thousands of years; somewhat more recently it was the standard ration of the Roman Legions that expanded throughout the Western World. Ground into a paste and cooked, it was also the primary ingredient in plus, the polenta eaten for centuries by the Roman poor. Important as it was, however, it was difficult to work and produced low yields. In the centuries following the fall of the Empire, higher-yielding grains were developed and farro's cultivation dwindled: By the turn of the century in Italy there were a few hundreds of acres of fields scattered over the regions of Lazio, Umbria, the Marches and Tuscany.

Farro would probably still be an extremely local specialty had the farmers of the French Haute Savoie not begun to supply it to elegant restaurants that used it in hearty vegetable soups and other dishes. Their success sparked renewed interest in farro among gastronomes, and now the grain is enjoying a resurgence in popularity in Italy as well, especially among trendy health-conscious cooks.

At this point you may be wondering exactly what farro is. According to Garzanti's Italian-English dictionary it's spelt, but Luciano Migliolli, author of Il Farro e le sue Ricette (Farro and its recipes), says that though it looks rather like spelt they're not the same. Farro must be soaked, whereas spelt can be boiled straight off. Also, cooked farro has a firm chewy texture, whereas spelt softens and becomes mushy. What this means is that you have to read the package carefully when you purchase farro (a well-stocked delicatessen or health food store should have it) to make certain you are getting Triticum dicoccum (farro's Latin name). If you cannot find farro spelt will work, and you should be able to use barley or other whole grains as well -- the results won't be quite the same and you will have to adjust the cooking times, but the dishes will be good.

Purchasing and Preparation

• Farro is divided into 3 grades. The best has grains 6-8 mm long (1/4 to 1/3 of an inch), the second has grains 3-5 mm long (1/8 to 1/4 inch, which can be inappropriately labeled farricello, the Italian for spelt), and the third consists of cracked grains broken during processing. Mr. Migliolli suggests you purchase whole grain farro and crack it at home, if the recipe calls for it, by whirling it in an electric coffee grinder or blender -- this way you avoid purchasing dust or stones. Once you have purchased it, store it like any other grain, in a sealed glass container in a cool dry place.
  
• Before you can use it you do have to prepare it: Wash it well, picking out impurities such as bits of chaff, pebbles, or bad grains, and soak it for at least 8 hours. It will keep in this soaked state in the refrigerator for a few days. Come time to cook it, either add it to a soup or boil it by itself, for 2 hours in a normal pot or one in a pressure cooker (halve these times if you are using cracked farro). One thing that you should keep in mind is that farro will continue to absorb liquid and soften once it is done, so you should let it sit for a while if you can.
  Another way to cook farro for minestrone and such is to set it to boil directly in abundant vegetable broth (for example from boiling beans, chick peas, or cabbage) for a couple of hours, then let it rest and puff up for at least 8 hours before stirring it into the soup pot. The farro will absorb lots of vegetable flavor, but you have to make certain you have sufficient vegetable broth handy for making the soups as well before you begin.

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Zuppa di Farro -- Farro Soup

This hearty soup is especially common in the Garfagnana region, the mountains northwest of Lucca, but is popular in the rest of Tuscany as well. To serve 4 you'll need:

• 6-8 ounces (by weight) farro, in whole grains
• 3/4 pound ripe plum tomatoes (or canned tomatoes), chopped and seeded
• 2-3 ounces pancetta (smoked if possible)
• Grated pecorino toscano cheese, or Parmigiano (romano will be too sharp)
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 onion, finely sliced
• A small bunch parsley
• Some fresh basil
• A few sprigs thyme
• Olive oil
• Salt & pepper to taste
• 1 quart hot broth (it can be made with bullion if need be)

Begin by preparing the farro as described above.

When it's ready, mince the pancetta and sauté it in a couple of tablespoons of olive oil, together with the thyme, finely sliced onion, and garlic cloves. When the mixture has browned, remove and discard the garlic, and stir in the chopped tomatoes, parsley and basil. Cook for a few minutes, then stir in the hot broth, and once the pot comes to a boil, the farro. Cook over a low flame for about 2 hours or until the farro is done (taste a grain), stirring often, and checking the seasoning towards the end. Let the soup sit for an hour and serve it warm, with olive oil and grated cheese.

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Farro con Cavolo Nero -- Farro with Kale

Kale is at its best when its leaves have felt the bite of frost, so this is a winter recipe.

• 6-8 ounces (by weight) farro, in whole grains
• 1/2 pound borlotti beans (pinto beans are similar)
• 1 1/4 pounds canned tomatoes, chopped
• 2 ounces pancetta
• 1 medium-sized onion
• 1 carrot
• 1 8-inch rib of celery
• 2 kales (about a pound if the leaves are individual), washed well and coarsely shredded. If you cannot find kale, use Savoy Cabbage instead.
• Olive oil
• Salt & pepper to taste

Begin by preparing the farro as described above, and cook the beans until close to being done in very lightly salted water. Blend the beans, reserving the liquid.

Mince the pancetta, onion, celery and carrot, and sauté the mixture in 1/3 cup olive oil (or 1/2 if you prefer) over a low flame. Once the mixture has browned lightly stir in the tomatoes and simmer for a few minutes more, then add the kale and continue cooking until it wilts. Stir in the blended beans and the water they cooked in, add the farro, and simmer the soup for 2 hours, stirring frequently. Should the soup become too thick add boiling water. Check seasoning towards the end of the cooking time, and then let the soup sit covered for an hour before serving it, with olive oil on the side.

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La Minestra Povera di Farro -- Poor Man's Farro Soup

This is from the rugged Apennines that separate Emilia-Romagna from Tuscany -- an area that was often isolated for months on end during the winter before the advent of railroads and asphalt. To serve 4 you'll need:

• 1/4 pound farro in whole grains
• 2 quarts water
• 2 cloves garlic
• 2 bay leaves
• 3/4 cup whole milk
• 4 large potatoes
• 1 carrot
• 1 onion and 1 rib celery, minced
• 2 heaping tablespoons tomato sauce
• 1/4 pound pancetta or a small pig's trotter (optional)

Prepare the farro as described above and set it to cook with all the remaining ingredients except the potatoes and the milk. After 2 1/2 half hours add the potatoes and cook a half-hour longer, then check seasoning. Mash the potatoes and stir the milk into them, then return the mixture to the pot and serve piping hot. Be sure to stir frequently lest the soup stick and burn.

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Verdurata di Farro -- Greens and Farro

This is more of a hint than a recipe -- Feel free to vary it to suit your tastes and the vegetables available. It will work well as a vegetarian main course, or as a side dish. To serve 4 you'll need:

• 6 ounces farro (by weight), in whole grains
• 4 zucchini
• 4 carrots
• 4 medium-sized potatoes
• 1/4 pound string beans
• 1/2 pound freshly shelled cannellini beans (or other fresh beans)
• Whatever other greens strike your fancy
• 1/4 pound pancetta, diced
• 3 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1/2 a shredded hot pepper or more to taste (go easy)
• Olive oil
• Salt

Cook the farro as described above (a pressure cooker will speed things) and let it sit for at least an hour in the water it cooked in. Chop all the vegetables into bite-sized pieces and boil or steam them, then drain the farro and combine it with the vegetables in a bowl.

Heat 1/4 cup of olive oil in a skillet and sauté the diced pancetta, crushed garlic and hot pepper. When the mixture has colored, add 1 tablespoon of water, and stir the mixture into the farro bowl. Serve hot; this works well as a one-course meal or as an accompaniment to grilled meats. It will also work well as picnic food.

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Torta Salata di Farro -- Savory Farro Pie

Another traditional dish of the hills around Lucca. It calls for cracked farro, which cooks faster, and will serve six:

• 10 ounces (by weight) cracked farro
• 1/2 pound fresh ricotta
• 3 eggs
• 3 heaping tablespoons grated Parmigiano
• A small bunch parsley
• 1/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
• Salt & pepper to taste
• Butter
• Bread crumbs

Prepare the farro as described above, and cook it in a pressure cooker for about 45 minutes. Blend it and combine it with the remaining ingredients except the butter and the bread crumbs. Use them to lightly grease and coat a 9-inch pan, pour the farro mixture into it, and bake it in a 370 F (180C) oven for about 40 minutes. This will work well as a second course, with a tossed salad.

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Insalata d'Estate -- A Summer Salad

This is common in Umbria and Lazio

• 6 ounces (by weight) farro, in whole grains
• 6 ripe tomatoes, diced
• 15 black olives (the sweet kind), pitted and cut in half
• 10 basil leaves
• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1/4 cup olive oil (you may want more)
• Salt and shredded red pepper.

Prepare the farro as described above, cooking it for 2 hours (a pressure cooker will speed things) and letting it sit for a while when it's done. While it's sitting, combine the tomatoes, basil leaves, garlic, olive oil salt and red pepper, and let them sit too for at least a half hour. Drain the farro, stir it into the tomatoes, add the olives, check seasoning, and serve. Poor man's food, but what the Mediterranean diet is all about, and quite healthy too.

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Ca Lojera's 1997 Vintages

Moving to other things, one of the more pleasant discoveries I made at Vinexpo (where I was primarily talking to producers about WineAccess, one of the best wine sites on the Web) was Ca Lojera, a small winery whose vineyards overlook Lake Garda. When I stopped by their stand at Vinitaly this spring Ambra Tiraboschi told me they are completing new underground cellars and showed me photographs reminiscent of the vaults of a monastery.

Ca Lojera Lugana 1997 is a pale gold with gold highlights; the bouquet is quite complex, with zesty floral notes, herbs and green pepper. On the palate it's full and rich, though I found the acidity, which emerged in the form of a strong citrus finish, a bit too pronounced -- at least in a tasting-type situation. With a rich cream sauce, or heavy fish like salmon, on the other hand, it could go very well, as it leaves the palate very clean.

Ca Lojera Vigna Silva 96 is a more charged gold; with time (this is the same wine I tasted freshly bottled and still unsettled at Bordeaux) the bouquet has gained in fruit and floral notes, which now nicely balance the vanilla from the wood. On the palate the wine is rich, with good fruit and a pleasing acidity that leads into a clean finish with well balanced wood and citrus notes. An elegant wine that will go quite nicely with fish, white meats in mild sauces, and mild cheeses.

Ca Lojera Monte Della Guardia is a blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet, aged in barriques. It's a deep red with orange highlights and has an elegant vinous bouquet laced with berry fruit and well balanced by wood. On the palate it has nice fruit, medium body, and extremely round tannins (the influence of the Merlot shining through); the finish is clean with rich fruit. It's round enough to go well with first course dishes, such as risotti or tortelli, but powerful enough to go well with roasted white meats too.

Good Food & Drink,
Kyle Phillips

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The recipes are drawn from Mr. Migliolli's Il Farro e le sue Ricette; all translations, remarks & photos © Kyle Phillips.