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Zucca -- That's Squash

Squash in a streetside marketSquash is a lot less common than it used to be in Italy -- back in the days before refrigeration it was one of the standard winter vegetables, in part because it was inexpensive, and in part because it keeps very well.

Now it's nowhere near as common, for several reasons.

First, because of its cheapness it was (and is) also used as animal feed; in the past this led those who could afford other vegetables to look down on it, while those who couldn't resented it.

The second is a historical curiosity: it was the one of the few readily available foods during the period following Italy's surrender in 1943 and prior to the liberation by the Allies. No one knows why; perhaps because the bands of German and Allied soldiers left the squash on the vines when they came across vegetable patches. In any case, many people subsisted for months on little else but boiled, unseasoned squash, and when other things became available they decided they never wanted to see it again (a side effect of this decision is that their families have grown up not eating it and tend not to think of it).

Finally, squash is fairly bland, and as a greater variety of more flavorful vegetables has become available during the winter months, people have taken to buying other things.

This doesn't mean that you won't find squash in Italian markets, however. Quite the contrary, come fall almost every greengrocer will have one out on the counter, and sell it by the slice.

So what kind of squash will you find? By comparison with the Americas, there's much less variety. No Hubbard squash, no acorn squash, and none of the more decorative types.

What there is is either globular, resembling a pumpkin in shape, or long, looking rather like a twisted pipe. In either case the rind is green to orange, and the flesh is orange; they taste about the same, and in terms of flavor and texture resemble the butternut squash that's sold in North America.

A slice of squash will keep for 2-3 days in the refrigerator, but not much more. When you select it, make sure that the rind is a uniform color, because it will be uniformly ripe. The same advice holds for selecting a whole squash -- select one that's uniformly colored to insure uniform ripeness. When you get it home, it will keep for several months in a cool dry place.

Winding down, a couple of nutritional observations: Squash is rich in antioxidants, which help fight aging. It's also an excellent source of potassium, which is a diuretic that helps purify the blood. And finally, it has anti-inflammatory compounds that help one relax.

A Few Recipes

Confettura di Zucca
This squash jam gains from the addition of apples and pears. Quite good, and perfect over toast or with cheese.

Zuppa Di Zucca Gialla
A simple squash soup, from Artusi.

Minestrone di Zucca Gialla per 8 Persone
Though yellow squash was considered poor people's fare in the past, it is both tasty and versatile, as you'll discover if you try this soup.

Sbroscia della Vecchia Versilia
True peasant food, a simple squash and bean soup.

Risotto alla Zucca
Squash risotto is a winter mainstay, and rightly so: Very good!

Gnocchi di Zucca alla Versiliese
Potatoes are the most common base for gnocchi, but not the only one. Here squash takes their place.

Sicula's Ravioli con la Zucca
A quick, tasty recipe for ravioli made with squash or pumpkin.

Tortelli di Zucca
The traditional recipe from Mantova contains amaretti, and is delightful with Recioto.

Ravioli di Zucca con Lenticchie e Pancetta
Lentils & Pancetta work quite nicely to offset the sweetness of squash ravioli.

Zucca Disfatta
Pureed squash.

Zucca alla Veneta
Classic Venetian fried squash with a sweet-and-sour sauce.

Gubana alla Zucca Gialla
An unusual squash strudel (for want of a better name) from Friuli Venezia Giulia.

Torta Di Zucca Gialla
A simple, tasty squash pie, from Artusi.

Got more sites / recipes to suggest? Let me know.

A Presto,
Kyle Phillips

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