Provolone: From South to North
I had always assumed that Provolone is a south Italian cheese: The name sounds southern, and it closely resembles Caciocavallo, which is southern -- both are made by kneading the curd while it's still hot, a process that makes the curd firm and elastic, and though both do become quite hard as they age, neither becomes crumbly. Continuing with the similarities, both are made from cow's milk, by combining the milks from the morning and evening milkings, both are mild flavored when young, gaining a salty sharpness with age, both are a pale yellow that darkens with age, and both are often elongate in shape.
So what's the difference? First of all, most Provolone is made in Northern Italy: The pastures of Campania, the region around Naples, are scraggly, and consequently the cows that graze them are poor milkers. Turning back the clock slightly, with the unification of Italy in the 1860s interregional travel became much easier, and a group of Campanian cheese makers decided to move north to the area around Cremona in the Pianura Padana, where the pastures are lush and milk production is astronomical. Rather than produce wheels along the lines of Parmigiano or Grana Padano -- what the locals made -- they continued to work and shape their curds as they always had, and called their cheese Provola or Provolone. Since southern cattle and forage differ from those of the Pianura Padana, Caciocavallo and Provolone will taste different even though the working of the curds is the same; artisinally produced cheeses of the two kinds will be equally good, and which you prefer will be a matter of personal taste.
The second major difference between Caciocavallo and Provolone is in the shape and size of the cheeses. A form of Caciocavallo will weigh at the most about 3 pounds (1.5 k) and is shaped rather like a long-necked gourd, in part because tradition dictates that the cheese maker form two bowling pin-shaped cheeses, tie them together with a length of twine, and hang them over a pole to age. A form of Provolone can weigh anywhere from a pound to several hundred pounds, and the forms come in several shapes, all of which are tied with strong twine and then hung up to age. The most common shapes are sausage-shaped, melon or pear-shaped, conical, and bottle-shaped, though some artisans also sculpt their cheeses to make animals, figurines, and whatever else suits their fancy.
In addition to the different shapes of Provolone, there are two grades of the cheese:
- Provolone Dolce is mild; it's made using calf's rennet, and is aged at the most for 3 months. As one might expect it's delicate, and has a creamy milky taste. It's a fine-end-of-dinner or cheese-platter-at-a-party type cheese, and also works well as an ingredient in the kitchen. Forms of Provolone dolce are small, up to a maximum of about 12 pounds.
- Provolone Piccante is sharp; it's made using goat or lamb's rennet, and is aged for up to a year. It's much drier than the Dolce and sharper; though some people will serve it at the close of a meal many prefer to use it as an ingredient. Forms of Provolone piccante can reach 200 pounds (the elongate shapes).
Finally, there are smoked versions of both the Dolce and the Piccante; both make a welcome addition to a cheese platter.
ENOUGH TALK! SOME RECIPES:
Scacciata
A tasty savory Sicilian pie with tomatoes and Caciocavallo or Provolone cheese. Difficulty:
Moderate
Farfalle al Provolone
Butterflies (or bowties) served in a simple cheesy tomato sauce that agins zest from green peppercorns. Difficulty:
Easy.
Torta di Riso al Provolone
A tasty, cheesy savory pie. Difficulty:
Moderate.
Melanzane Imbottite di Formaggio
Eggplant work very nicely with cheese, and also with tomatoes. Difficulty:
Easy.
Sciuille co la Pastetta
Neapolitan stuffed zucchini flowers, with prosciutto and cheese. Difficulty:
Moderate.
Polpettine di Provolone
Most meatballs are meat-based. These, instead, are made with cheese, and will work nicely in a quick lunch.. They'll also make a nice antipasto or party food. Difficulty:
Easy.
Insalata Ricca di Patate
A tasty, cheesy potato salad. Difficulty:
Easy.
Cotolette Farcite di Provolone
Cutlets folded over slices of cheese, breaded, and fried: Tremendously satisfying! Difficulty:
Moderate.
Bracioline Ripiene alla Siciliana
Zesty Sicilian veal cutlets stuffed with cheese, olives and more -- quick, and perfect for the grill! Difficulty:
Moderate.
The Consorzio Tutela Provolone Valpadana's Site
Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
