The Food of Southern Italy

Lamb chops made this way are beautiful because the rib bone is left so long. When the chops have been properly pounded, the rib eye will be about 3 1/2 inches around. Each one resembles a flag with a curved pole. This dish is marvelous for large parties because you can set up a heated serving platter with all the garnishes on it and, at the last moment, fry the lamb chops, which you have previously prepared.

MENU SUGGESTIONS: You could begin your meal with potato croquettes (p. 231) or with Stuffed Pasta Dumplings (p. 139). There would be no need for an antipasto. Cream Puffs (Page 256) would be a good dessert for this meal.

WINE: Montepulciano d'Abruzzo (p. 298), Corvo Rosso (p. 308), or Brindisi Rosso (p. 298).

• 2 large red bell peppers (use green if red not available)
• 1 large garlic clove, minced
• About 1/2 cup virgin olive oil
• 2 large, juicy lemons
• 8 baby artichokes, washed and trimmed
• 1 teaspoon salt and to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1/2 pound mushrooms
• 8 rib lamb chops with long bone left in
• 2 tablespoons capers [he mentions those packed in salt in the pantry section]
• 8 anchovy filets

Wash the bell peppers and dry them. Put them on the burner plate over a high gas flame and let the flames lick up around them. After one side ahs become charred and very black, turn the pepper around with tongs and burn the skin on the other side. When they are totally black, set them aside to cool on a dish. (It is not necessary to put them into a bag unless you want to cook them a bit, as the bag, when you seal it, becomes a little oven when you put the peppers in it.)

When the peppers are cool enough to handle, lay them down on a board or on the edge of your sink, and scrape the blackened skin off them. (It should slip right off.) Cut the peppers open, scrape out and discard the seeds, and remove and discard the core. Cut the peppers into slices about 1/4-inch thick, and put them on a plate. Scatter the garlic all over them, drizzle on about 2 tablespoons of virgin olive oil, and squeeze the juice of 1/4 of a lemon. Set the peppers aside for later use. (For more details about burning the skin off peppers, see Roasted Peppers with Italian-Style Tuna and Clams, page 104).

Soak the baby artichokes in cold water to clean them, and in another large bowl prepare three quarts of acidulated water by adding 3 tablespoons of white vinegar or lemon juice. Peel off the tough outer leaves of the artichokes until the inner, yellow leaves appear, dipping the artichoke you are working on in the acidulated water occasionally to keep it from turning black. Leave each soaking in the acidulated water. When you have finished this part of the job, remove each one from the water, and, with a sharp paring knife, trim the bottom so that it looks clean and neat. The bottom is edible and choice, so don't take off any more than necessary. Cut about 25 percent of the top off and cut each artichoke into quarters lengthwise.

Place the artichokes in a small saucepan, cover them with cold water and add 3 slices of lemon, skin and all, 1 teaspoon of salt, 4 grindings of fresh black pepper, and 2 tablespoons of olive oil. Turn the heat to medium, bring the artichokes to a simmer, and cook them for 10 minutes, or until they are tender. The liquid should be evaporated, except for the oil, which should remain to coat them. If the artichokes are done and there's too much liquid, quickly remove them from the water with a slotted spoon, and put them temporarily into a dish. Reduce the liquid over high heat until only the oil remains. Remove the lemon slices, and discard them. Put the artichokes back into the oil, and stir them all around. Set them aside for later use.

Wipe the mushrooms clean with a paper or kitchen towel. If they are large, cut them into quarters. In a frying pan that will just hold the mushrooms, heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over high heat, add the mushrooms, and stir them. Sauté them for 5 minutes, or until they become golden. Do not overcook them. Squeeze on the juice of 1/2 lemon, and with the heat still high, swirl and stir everything around to evaporate the lemon juice. If there is any liquid left, remove the mushrooms from the frying pan with a slotted spoon, put them into a bowl or dish to cool, and reduce the pan juice over high heat until it is thick and there is very little of it. Pour this remaining juice on the mushrooms. Set them aside until later.

Gently pound the meat with a meat bat to less than 1/4-inch thickness. Add salt and pepper to taste. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a large frying pan almost to smoking, quickly fry the chops for about 1 minute on each side, and put them aside on a heated plate. They should be well browned outside but pink inside, not raw or even blood rare, just pink.

Assemble the chops attractively on a serving platter. They are very pretty if you place the bones pointing towards the middle of the platter or toward the outside of the platter. In between the bones, where there is plenty of space, carefully put in some of the bell peppers, artichoke pieces, and some mushrooms in little heaps. Scatter a few capers on top of these vegetables, and then, on top of the vegetables or off to the side, place the anchovies. (The vegetables do not need to be hot, but the meat does. The vegetables are more like garnishes in this dish, as opposed to a regular portion.)

Note: Ask your butcher to cut the rib bones so that they are about 6 inches long. Take the chine bone (the chine bone is the part of the back bone to which the ribs are attached and is usually left on chop cuts) off the ribs using a heavy cleaver, or carefully dissect it off. Or have the butcher do it. (Leave the rib bone on. It looks nice and makes it easy to pick the meat up with the fingers.)