Brunello to Zibibbo
A few years ago Nicolas Belfrage published Barolo to Valpolicella, which is probably the best overview of the North Italian wine scene in print. With Brunello to Zibibbo he turns his attention to Central and Southern Italy, and does just as good a job.
As with Barolo to Valpolicella, he divides the country by geographical area, and within each geographical area discusses the indigenous grapes grown and the wines they become, followed by a rundown of the major producers, praising the positive and calling spades spades with equal forthrightness. For example, in discussing Bigi, a winery in Orvieto, he says:
This azienda was founded as far back as 1880, but for some years now has been part of the Gruppo Italiano Vini empire (see Melini under Poggibonsi, section on Chianti Classico). Production is enormous -- around a half million cases a year -- many of which being destined for export, and while the Orvieto Classico normale can be rather industrially uneventful the Vigneto Torricella is and has been among the best of the genre, year after year, since the 1980s. Francesco Bardi, who also reigns at GIV's Frascati establishment Fontana Candida, is one winemaker who does not seem fazed by the need to turn out good wine in large volume (P 188).
Quick, concise, and we come away knowing what to look for, and, just as important, what to avoid. He also discusses the inroads of the international varietals (Merlot, Chardonnay, and so on), the effects (many of which are negative) that wine journalism is having in Italy, gives a good idea of the political maneuvering that is shaping the wine trade, and finishes up with a long discussion of Italian wine law and the shortcomings that are becoming apparent as the number of denominations grows, with some very sound suggestions for putting the system back on track. If you're professionally interested in Italian wines the legislative section alone is sufficient reason to purchase the book. If you simply like wine, you'll enjoy the rundowns and commentary, and find yourself slipping the book (or its companion) under your arm the next time you head to a well-stocked wine shop. Italy has hundreds of excellent, little-known enological gems, and Nick's books are the best way to discover them that I have seen.
Practical things:
- Brunello to Zibibbo; The Wines of Tuscany, Central and Southern Italy
- By Nicholas Belfrage
- Faber & Faber, 2001
- London & New York
- ISBN 0-571-19516-4
- 493 pages, including the indexes, and there are many maps too.
The other volume:
- Barolo to Valpolicella
- By Nicholas Belfrage
- Faber & Faber, 1999
- London & New York
- ISBN 0-571-17852-9
- 368 pages, including the indexes, and there are many maps too.
