From Cosa Bolle in Pentola:
I confess I have never been to the Scotto restaurant, which is, I think, somewhere in Manhattan, but if it's anything like the book it's one of those colorful, lively places where almost anything can happen. The book bills itself as Italian, and the people who stare out at us from the many photos certainly look Italian, but they have also been in the US for quite some time -- in 1915 they were running a poultry market in Brooklyn -- and over the years the recipes have adapted to their new surroundings, while gaining an innovative patina that is likely attributable to the New York restaurant scene. For example, my introduction to pappa al pomodoro (a Tuscan way of dealing with leftover bread when the tomatoes are really ripe) came at a friend's house in Florence on a sweltering July day, and I recall Paolo's mom whipping it up by mincing an onion and a clove of garlic, sautéing them briefly, adding tomatoes, salt, and a crumbled red pepper, and, when the tomatoes began to fall apart, crumbled bread. 5 more minutes, stirring, to give the ingredients time to meld, a garnish of shredded basil, and olive oil at table. Quite refreshing. The Scotto pappa has evolved into "The Italian version of tomato soup -- a hearty dish for a cold winter's night" (P. 21), and includes 2 cups of leeks, 2 quarts of chicken broth, and a little honey in addition to the things Paolo's mom used. It's a very different dish, and to be honest, were someone to set it before me and ask me to name it, I would guess zuppa di pomodoro.

Similar variations occur in many other recipes, and many have a lusty, larger-than-life richness that may set some purists' noses out of joint. These aspects are, however, also what make the recipes interesting; their richness speaks volumes about the struggle to rise up from the miseria the family left behind in the old country, while the variations give a fascinating look at how a cuisine can evolve in a new land. And a neat look at a closely knit Italian family. A sample recipe:

Braised Lamb Shanks with Orange Gremolata (P. 111)

6 servings

I was having dinner at Fresco with New York Post columnist Cindy Adams and WNBC-TV anchor Sue Simmons when who should walk in but Bryant Gumble and his girlfriend, Hillary. They sat down next to us, and Bryant started to tease us about how much food was on the table. Bryant, Hillary and Cindy became fast friends, even setting a play date for their dogs. Who would have thought that braised lamb shank could bring people together? -- Rosanna

For the Braised lamb Shanks

1/2 pound pancetta, cooked and diced

6 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped finely

1/2 pound carrots, chopped finely (about 2 medium carrots)

1 fennel bulb, chopped finely

3 tablespoons minced garlic

6 pounds lamb shanks

Salt & Pepper

2 cups dry red wine

3 cups veal stock (see recipe on page 29)

2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme

3 cups tomato puree

Zest of one orange and one lemon

For the orange gremolata

2 oranges

1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1. To make the braised lamb shanks: In a nonstick pan over medium heat, cook the pancetta just until the fat is rendered, about 2 minutes. Set aside.
2. In a large saucepan over medium heat, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onions, carrots, fennel, and garlic. Cook very slowly, stirring constantly, until very soft, 3-5 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a roasting pan large enough to hold the lamb shanks in a single layer.
3. Preheat the oven to 350 F. Season the shanks with salt and pepper. In a large sauté pan over high heat, heat 3 tablespoons of oil until very hot. Sear the shanks for about 3 minutes, or until they are nicely browned, turning to brown all sides. Transfer the shanks to the roasting pan. Add the pancetta, red wine, veal stock, thyme, tomato puree, and zests. Cover the pan with foil and roast for 2 hours, or until the meat is tender. Use the liquid on the bottom of the pan for the sauce.
4. To make the orange gremolata: Remove the zest from the oranges and mince. Then peel the oranges. Remove the membranes from the orange segments, and place the segments in a bowl. Add the parsley, orange zest, garlic, and olive oil. Mix well.
5. Serve the shanks topped with the orange gremolata, accompanied by roasted winter vegetables (see recipe on page 138).

Lusty vitality with obvious Italian roots, though there's also a distinctly modern, international touch as well, and the recipe might be a good bet for Valentine's Day too.

Practical things:

Italian Comfort Food, by the Scotto Family

176 pages, including the index, with lots of family photos and chatty asides that do give the felling of being there at the table.

Regan Books (An imprint of Harper Collins), N.Y. N.Y. 2002

ISBN 0-06-051569-4

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