Being the first issue of a monthly newsletter dedicated to Italian Cuisine - December, 1997

The holiday season is rapidly approaching; you will likely have already decided what to serve for Christmas dinner, assuming you celebrate the holiday. But New Year’s? Though Italians traditionally go out to a club or restaurant for a dinner with dancing and song, with the economy souring an unprecedented number of people will be celebrating at home or gathering at friends’ houses.

Most will celebrate handsomely in any case, with delicate antipasti including smoked salmon or caviar crostini, tasty first courses, mouth-watering second courses, and so on. Amidst all this refinement there will likely also be a heaping bowl of lentils, which everyone will partake of enthusiastically, as they are an augury of good fortune for the coming year. It’s an odd contrast, especially because the lentils are usually served with either a zampone or a cotechino, which are extremely rich, somewhat gelatinous pork sausages.

A zampone is a stuffed pig’s trotter, while a cotechino is a 3-inch thick, 9-inch long sausage made with the same filling. Both can be purchased partially preboiled in delicatessens; if you buy one follow the directions (usually to boil it for a half hour). If you happen to have access to the fresh item, the preparation time is longer. Prick the cotechino, or loosen the string at the top of the zampone (don’t remove it) and cook the sausage for 3 hours in a pot of water at a very slow boil.

Assuming each guest eats a half-inch thick slice, a cotechino will serve 6-8, and a zampone maybe 8-10. While the sausage is cooking prepare the lentils; Italians generally use the green variety. For 8 people figure about 2 cups. Wash them in a colander and set them in a pot with ample water to cover and a peeled onion. If they’ve soaked for a bit they’ll take about 30-45 minutes to cook, so turn the stove on at 11; season the water with salt and pepper to taste and cook them until they have softened (don’t let them overcook), drain them, and place them in a platter and keep warm. A few minutes before midnight drain and slice your sausage (it is good hot, and does not take well to reheating), and arrange the pieces on the bed of lentils in the platter. Serve with extra-virgin olive oil for your guests to sprinkle over their lentils.

A zampone at midnight is not for everyone. The lentils are just as good, and just as traditional the next day at lunch. In terms of a wine, you will want a zesty red with enough acidity to stand up to the sausage. I’d suggest a Rossese di Dolceacqua, a pale ruby red Ligurian which has an intriguing bouquet with notes of rosemary and sage interlaced with fruit, and pleasing sour cherry fruit on the palate. Tenuta Giuncheo’s is quite nice. As an alternative, a good zesty Bardolino, or a lively young Aglianico-based wine. This is not the time for a bottle of Brunello.

In terms of the rest of a New Year’s dinner, to be frank, I’d suggest Prince Philippe Poniatowski’s Vouvray – not Italian, but quite spectacular, and certainly the sort of wine called for by a memorable occasion (Tasting notes and a nice fish recipe from Prince Poniatowski). And for greeting the new year? Most people will think Champaign, but I’d also suggest a sparkling wines from Franciacorta. Though Ca Del Bosco is better known, I very much like Bellavista.

Happy New Year!

Kyle Phillips

Your Italian Food guide, who would much appreciate your feedback. And ends with a plug for his translation of Artusi's Art of Eating Well, the first cookbook to win the favor of the Italian middle class in 1891. You can read about it, find out while it's still going strong here in Italy, and sample some recipes!

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