Cosa Bolle in Pentola?
Florentine Restaurants, Chicken & Strawberries

Being the 12th issue of Cosa Bolle in Pentola, your Italian Cuisine newsletter.

Folks, recently got a letter from Sandra, who asked about Florence’s vegetarian and fish restaurants, and also the availability of a Kosher butcher. Since this sort of thing might be of interest to many, here is my reply, slightly expanded:

There is one vegetarian restaurant in Florence, on Via delle Ruote (Tel 475-030). Simple food and rather Bohemian in atmosphere the last time I went, which was a number of years ago. Another possibility for vegetarian cuisine would be the Indian restaurant in Fiesole. As for fish, among the many the Risotrante Cafaggi (Via Guelfa, Tel 055 294-989) is quite nice, and has some interesting southern Italian dishes as well (the chef’s Sicilian). The décor, modern 1960s, is something you don’t see very often any more. In general terms, most anywhere you go will have some vegetarian things, especially first courses. If you say "Sono vegetariana" you will get a list of the vegetable-based dishes.

I’m not so certain about Kosher butchers – haven’t ever noted one in Florence, and my father in law, who was a butcher, would wash his knives before serving his Jewish customers, which obviously wouldn’t be sufficient for someone who follows the laws with care. For further information you should call Florence's Synagogue (during office hours, Tel 055 245252). Or stop by to visit (it’s just towards the river from Piazza d’Azelio, where the number 6 bus stops) as it’s quite beautiful. While you’re there, you should also make reservations at the Couscussú, Florence’s Jewish restaurant. Once when Betty and I went there was a couple celebrating its diamond anniversary, with friends and family from all over the world; about half way through the meal Rabbi stood and led a sung service. A beautiful occasion we were glad to witness.

Moving onto other things, Marty recently posted the below on the Forum: "I had gone to an Italian restaurant in the North End of Boston and had a dish called Chicken Carruzzo. It was chicken topped with mozzarella in a butter sauce made with sherry wine. Does anyone have a recipe like this to forward--I am dying to try this."

I haven't found anything that uses mozzarella in the sauce and am quite curious about the dish -- what kept the mozzarella from solidifying as it cools? However, I have found a couple of creamy chicken dishes that include sherry, one from a collection of meat recipes gathered by La Cucina Italiana, and the other from Ada Boni's Talismano della Felicitá.

Cosce di Pollo Ripiene con Pancetta e Formaggio -- Chicken Legs Stuffed with Pancetta and Cheese; La Cucina Italiana

Time: 40 minutes preparation, 40 minutes cooking time

• To serve 6 you'll need:
• 6 drumsticks + thighs
• 1/4 pound pancetta (the kind that's rolled up, finely sliced)
• 2 Ounces Fontina cheese
• 1 tablespoon butter
• 1 clove garlic
• 3 leaves sage
• The leaves of a short sprig of rosemary
• Needle and thread
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 cup sherry
• Salt & Pepper
• 1 tablespoon corn starch
• 1/4 cup cream
• 2-3 tablespoons tomato sauce

Clean, wash and bone the chicken legs without cutting into them -- in other words, work the flesh down the bones, remove the bones, and push the legs back into shape. Mince the garlic, rosemary and sage as finely as possible, coarsely mince the pancetta and fontina, and stuff the chicken legs with the mixture, sewing the openings shut when you're done.

Heat the butter and the oil in a pan and brown the chicken legs on all sides. Once they have browned, sprinkle the sherry over them, and as soon as it has evaporated season the chicken legs with salt and pepper to taste. Next, dust them with the cornstarch, sprinkle them with the cream and the tomato sauce, and stir the mixture to keep lumps from forming. Reduce the heat to low and simmer for 40 minutes (stir in a little more liquid if necessary), by which time the chicken will be quite tender and the sauce will be pleasingly thick.

Remove the string from the chicken pieces, lay them out on a platter, spoon the sauce over them, and serve, with a zesty red wine or a fresh, fruity (non-oaked) white.

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

This one's from Ada Boni's Talismano della Felicitá:

Pollastrina alla Crema di Latte -- Hen Cooked in Cream

To serve 6:

• 1 chicken, about 2.5 pounds (cleaned)
• 1/4 cup butter
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1 tablespoon flour
• 1 scant cup dry white wine
• 1 cup cream
• 2 yolks
• 1/2 a lemon
• 3/4 pound mushrooms, washed and sliced finely
• 1/2 cup Marsala
• White truffle (optional)

Flame the chicken (to take care of any remaining pinfeathers) and chop it into pieces. Wash them, dry them, and set all but the breast pieces to sauté in a pan in which you have previously heated the butter and oil. Let the meat brown for a few minutes over a brisk flame, then add the breasts, salt to taste, and dust everything with the tablespoon of flour. Let the meat brown for a few more minutes, scraping the pan to keep the drippings from sticking down, then spoon out and discard all the fat and stir in the white wine. When it has evaporated, stir in the cream, cover, and cook over a very low flame.

In the meantime, sauté the mushrooms until done in a little bit of butter, seasoning them to taste with salt and pepper.

Once the chicken is done (it will be fork-tender and the meat will begin to pull away from the bones) remove it to a platter and keep it warm while you finish preparing the sauce, which should be neither too thin nor too thick (add a little milk or cook it down further if need be). Remove it from the fire, whisk in the yolks, and strain it. Next, return it to the fire with the chicken pieces. Spoon the mushrooms over them, sprinkle the Marsala over everything, and serve, adding a grating of white truffle if you wish.

In terms of a wine, a medium-bodied red would be nice, perhaps Marchesi de'Pancrazi's Pinot Nero.

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

Finally, Linda (I think?) posted a message on the Rec.Foods.Cooking newsgroup in which she lamented an overabundance of strawberries and wondered what else she might do with them. Were I faced with that problem I’d make a risotto:

• 2 tablespoons minced onion (or shallot)
• 3 tablespoons julienned celery
• 1/2 cup butter
• 1 pound rice (preferably Carnaroli, otherwise Arborio)
• 1 cup good dry sparkling wine (it need not be Methode Champenoise)
• Simmering broth, ideally vegetable, though chicken will do
• 3/4 pound firm strawberries, finely sliced
• 4 tablespoons grated Parmigiano.

Sauté the onion and celery until well wilted in 2/3 of the butter, then remove them from the pot with a slotted spoon and set them aside. Stir the rice into the butter and cook over a moderate flame, stirring, for 5-7 minutes. Stir the onion and celery back into the rice, stir to heat through, and add the bubbly. Continue stirring until the wine is completely evaporated, then begin adding broth a ladle at a time. The rice should be done in about 15 minutes; at this point stir in the strawberries, cook stirring gently for one more minute, turn off the flame, stir in the remaining butter and cheese, cover for a minute, and serve.

If you want to serve individual portions (they do look better) set aside the four prettiest strawberries, split them, and place them on top of the ristto in the bowls, garnishing with either mint or celery leaves. This recipe will serve four hefty eaters, or 6 more normal people. If you’re serving more, set aside more strawberries.

As a variation (use the proportions above)

• 2 shallots, minced
• Butter
• Strawberries, quartered
• Brown rice
• 1/2 cup dry white wine
• Mint leaves for garnish
• Simmering broth
• Grated Parmigiano (optional)

Sauté the shallot in the butter, and when it has turned golden remove it from the pot with a slotted spoon and set it aside; stir the rice into the butter and cook, stirring, over a moderate flame for 5-7 minutes. Return the shallot to the pot, stir in the wine and cook until evaporated, then stir in half the strawberries and mix with a spoon until they come apart, forming a syrup. At this point finish cooking the risotto by adding broth a ladle at a time. When it’s done (brown rice will take longer than Arborio to cook, 20 minutes or more) stir in the remaining strawberries, a walnut-sized chunk of butter, and, if you want, a few tablespoons grated Parmigiano.

Cover for 2 minutes and serve, with the mint-leaf garnish.

With either of these risotti, I'd serve a zesty, unoaked white wine, for example a Fiano or a Trebbiano di Lugana.

A printer-friendly version of these risotti.

Thanks for visiting, and have a wonderful day!
Kyle Phillips

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