Folks,
It has been two years since I began writing Cosa Bolle in Pentola (doesn't seem that long), and the number of subscribers has increased tremendously. Consequently few of you will have seen what I wrote then about San Silvestro, new year's Eve. This year the Italian travel people had been full of plans for exotic places, most of which seem to have fallen flat. According to the most recent broadcasts, almost everyone will be at home, gathered with friends and family to greet 2000. Dinners will play a major part in the festivities, with delicate antipasti including smoked salmon or caviar crostini, tasty first courses, mouth-watering second courses, and so on. Amidst all this refinement there will likely also be a heaping bowl of lentils, which everyone will partake of enthusiastically, as they are an augury of good fortune for the coming year. It’s an odd contrast, especially because the lentils are usually served with either a zampone or a cotechino, which are extremely rich, somewhat gelatinous pork sausages.

A zampone is a stuffed pig’s trotter, whereas a cotechino is a 3-inch thick, 9-inch long sausage made with the same filling. Both can be purchased partially preboiled in delicatessens; if you buy one follow the directions (usually to boil it for a half-hour). If you happen to have access to the fresh item, the preparation time is longer but the end result is tastier. Prick the cotechino, or loosen the string at the top of the zampone (don’t remove it) and cook the sausage for 3 hours in a pot of water at a very slow boil.

Assuming each guest eats a half-inch thick slice, a cotechino will serve 6-8, and a zampone maybe 8-10. While the sausage is cooking prepare the lentils; Italians generally use the green variety. For 8 people figure about 2 cups. Wash them in a colander and set them in a pot with ample water to cover and a peeled onion. If they’ve soaked for a bit they’ll take about 30-45 minutes to cook, so turn the stove on at 11; season the water with salt and pepper to taste and cook them until they have softened (don’t let them overcook), drain them, and place them in a platter and keep them warm. A few minutes before midnight drain and slice your sausage (it is good hot, and does not take well to reheating), and arrange the pieces on the bed of lentils in the platter. Serve with extra-virgin olive oil for your guests to sprinkle over their lentils.

A zampone at midnight is not for everyone. The lentils and sausage are just as good, and just as traditional the next day at lunch. In terms of a wine, you will want a zesty red with enough acidity to stand up to the sausage. I’d suggest a Rossese di Dolceacqua, a pale ruby red Ligurian which has an intriguing bouquet with notes of rosemary and sage interlaced with fruit, and pleasing sour cherry fruit on the palate. Tenuta Giuncheo’s is quite nice. As an alternative, a good zesty Bardolino, or a lively young Aglianico-based wine. This is not the time for a bottle of Brunello.

In terms of the rest of a New Year’s dinner, to be frank, I’d suggest Prince Philippe Poniatowski’s Vouvray – not Italian, but quite spectacular, and certainly the sort of wine called for by a memorable occasion. And for greeting the new year? Most people will think Champaign, but I’d also suggest a sparkling wines from Franciacorta. Though Ca Del Bosco is better known, I very much like Bellavista.

In any case, HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Moving on to other things, the Christian Jubilee has already begun, and if you're planning to visit Italy this year you'll be best off making reservations as soon as possible. It's going to be packed this summer. With all the crowds you may decide to see the lesser known areas; in this regard I recently got a note from Philip, who was surprised at the dearth of Luccan restaurants on my restaurant review page. Turns out he lives just outside Lucca, in a beautiful house he shares with guests, and when I asked for some suggestions he kindly sent the below:

"La buca di San Antonio":-
In the centre of Lucca, a stone's throw from the San Michele (one of the World's most lovely churches), is a restaurant not to be missed. La Buca has been renowned amongst the Lucchesi since - who knows when? Renowned not just for its unsurpassable cooking, but also for the ambience, which starts with the trumpets on the ceiling and perhaps ends with the Vin Santo they leave on your table because you would like to stay longer than they would (Do lock up when you go!).

"La Mora":-
Just north of Lucca (7 km), on the road to Abetone, is the little village of Ponte a Moriano; cross the bridge and go up a bit and you'll see a sign to the right for La Mora. DO NOT pass it by! Sauro keeps a good table, so good that "La Guida Italia" rated him as one of the "Top 50" in Italy! And it really is a good place to eat - Sauro is friendly and views his eminence as a bit of a laugh... but if you want to taste Tuscan as it should be.... then his table d'haute Menu Toscana, which stretches over 15 different offerings, is for you. If you ask nicely, he'll also give you a plate as a souvenir of your visit!

"La Nina":-
Up above Lucca are the hills of Montecarlo (to the East), where some of the very best Tuscan White Wines are produced, and "where you drink well, ergo you eat well"(QED!). Few restaurants any where, on a Summer's day, or any other day, can rival La Nina. Imagine... sitting out, in the hills of Tuscany, being served, under a superb arbour, with the most excellent food and wine......... Could heaven be better? "La Nina" is lovely ............Try it!

Since I do drive through the region often I will have to stop.

As I said, the New Year is upon us, and we shall see what it will bring. Perhaps some sense among the food regulators. Earlier this month the word got out that the EEU planned to ban wood-fired ovens for food use because they're unsanitary. How anything that gets up to 450 C (not sure what it is F, but a lot) can be unsanitary, providing the baker sweeps the ash off the hearth, is beyond me. But the bureaucrats said wood-fired ovens are and decreed that gas, electric, or microwave ovens are to be used instead; they also said the ovens are not to get hotter than 350 C. The news was greeted with howl of protest in Italy, because a hot wood-fired oven really is necessary to make a pizza that has a light crunchy outer crust but remains softer in the middle. Things don't come out quite the same using other heat sources, nor, to the Italian palate, are they particularly good. Now the EEU people have announced that it was never their intention to ban wood-fired pizza ovens. At last some sense on their part!

A presto!
Kyle Phillips

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