We continue with the online edition of Cosa Bolle in Pentola; I've spent the past couple of week's housecleaning and updating links, so there are no new features to discuss. But it is time for picnics and firing up the grill, so don't forget to check the picnic recipes and grilling tips. The pic of the week is in keeping with the unspringlike weather we've been having of late in Italy, a shot of Castello della Verrucola on a stormy day. It's in Lunigiana, a wild and little-known area in northwestern Tuscany that's quite beautiful and well worth a trip.

Easter Madness

Returning to matters at hand, I hope those who celebrate Easter had a delightful and moving holiday. And not moving in the way it was moving for a young Umbrian couple: He went to the finest chocolatier in town and had a huge egg made for his fiancée, with a very special surprise -- a 2000-dollar engagement ring with rubies and diamonds. Unfortunately, he had the chef make it with dark chocolate: She prefers milk chocolate, so she took it back and exchanged it. When he discovered what she had done they hurried to the shop, but the gift egg had already been resold. There was, the TV news said, a SCENE with howls, screams, and rivers of tears, which ended with him declaring the wedding off and stomping out, presumably followed by yet more tears. Neither of them was available for comment, but their lawyer did promise a healthy reward to the person who helped patch things up by returning the ring. Alas, we haven't heard anything since, so whoever found it may have pocketed it. There are reasons for never looking a gift horse in the mouth.

Restaurants: Caserta & Verona

Moving in another direction, several people have asked about restaurants of late, and I do have a couple of suggestions. If you're near Caserta, you should make a point of trying Carpe Diem, Via Masseria Corte 101, in Piana di Monte Verna; tel. 39-0823-861-371, fax 39-0823-616-914. Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays -- Faith Willinger speaks quite highly of it, and I thank Steve for forwarding me her review. What else to do in Caserta? Visit the Reggia, the Bourbon's summer palace, which is about as spectacular and opulent a place as you could hope to find. If you time things right you may even get to see the Star Wars people, because they're using the interiors for the Naboo Palace.

If you are instead in Verona, by all means go to the Trattoria Al Calmiere, in Piazza San Zeno (to the left as you face the church). It's one of Verona's most traditional restaurants, with the hall dominated by a huge open fireplace where a chef mans the grill. I had a very pleasant meal the last night of Vinitaly, which began with grilled polenta with a seasoned lard pâté that was delightful, followed by bigoli (thick- stranded pasta) served with a choice of tomato sauce, meat sauce, chopped organ meats, and peas (they brought the pasta and the sauce boats, leaving me to season as I saw fit), and then bollito misto, mixed boiled meats. A good bollito misto (the link it to Piemonte's version, which is similar) is simply glorious, and this was, with beef, horse, capon, tongue, salt tongue, ham, cotechino, brisket and a number of other meats brought out on a cart; I told the chef to give me what he thought best, and enjoyed it all with a zesty salsa verde, pearà (a peppery beef-marrow and breadcrumb sauce), and ground horse radish. Grilled vegetables on the side. The wine? Speri's Valpolicella Classico Superiore Sant'Urbano, which was very nice, and the chef offered me a glass of Anselmi's Recioto di Soave, which brought things to a perfect close. The phone is 045/8030765, they're closed Wednesday evenings and Thursdays, and you should make reservations.

Maureen Fant's Restaurant Guide is Out!

Still on the subject of restaurants, Maureen Fant has just published a new book entitled Trattorias of Rome, Florence, and Venice: A Guide to Classic Eating, Drinking, and Snacking (Ecco Press, an imprint of HarperCollins; ISBN: 0060956879; List Price: $20.00 (Amazon.com: $16.00))

She says it "will fit in a medium-sized pocketbook or the jacket of a large man," and "contains very subjective reviews of about 110 restaurants, trattorias, wine bars, and miscellaneous other eating places in the big three Italian tourist cities …. The reviews contain the usual information plus mention of nearby landmarks or monuments visits to which can be used as an excuse for the meal. There are also occasional digressions on the evolution of restaurant food since the late sixties and occasionally even a little something on a few archaeological sites, though (for lack of time) not as much as I'd like." If the other places are anything like the Zibibbo, where we dined when she came up to Florence (Via del Terzollina 3/A, which is in the outskirts, actually, but well worth the ride on the 40 or 14 bus; Tel 055 433383), the book is going to be well worth it. Highly recommended.

Gene theft and Gene Modification, Revisited

Digging back into the archives, long-time subscribers will recall that a while back I wrote extensively about gene theft, the practice by which wealthy agribusiness takes genes (or plants) from third world countries, patents the plants/genes, and then charges royalties on what they've taken, with the approval of the First world courts. They also prosecute farmers downwind of those who use genetically modified seeds, accusing them of theft when what's really going on is wind-born pollination or insect activity. It sounds absurd, but the April 6 issue of the PANUPS (Pesticide Action Network Updates Service) newsletter discusses the case of Percy Schmeiser; it's worrisome enough that I'm quoting some of it here:

On March 29, 2001, a Canadian judge dealt a crushing blow to Farmers' Rights by ruling that Percy Schmeiser, a third generation Saskatchewan farmer, must pay Monsanto thousands of dollars for violating the corporation's monopoly patent on genetically engineered (GE) canola seed.

Under Canadian patent law, as in the U.S. and many other industrialized countries, it is illegal for farmers to re-use patented seed, or to grow Monsanto's GE seed without signing a licensing agreement. If the biotechnology corporations and U.S. Trade Reps get their way, every nation in the world will be forced to adopt patent laws that make seed saving illegal. The ruling against Schmeiser establishes an even more dangerous precedent because it means that farmers can be forced to pay royalties on GE seeds found on their land, even if they didn't buy the seeds or benefit from them.

Percy Schmeiser did not buy Monsanto's patented seed, nor did he obtain the seed illegally. Pollen from genetically engineered canola seeds blew onto his land from neighboring farms. (Percy Schmeiser's neighbors and an estimated 40% of farmers in Western Canada grow GE canola). Monsanto's GE canola genes invaded Schmeiser's farm without his consent. Shortly thereafter, Monsanto's "gene police" invaded his farm and took seed samples without his permission. Percy Schmeiser was a victim of genetic pollution from GE crops--but the court says he must now pay Monsanto US$10,000 for licensing fees and up to US$75,000 in profits from his 1998 crop.

The GE canola that drifted onto Schmeiser's farm was engineered to withstand spraying of Monsanto's proprietary weed killer, Roundup. But Schmeiser did not use Roundup on his canola crop. After all, if Schmeiser had sprayed his crop, the chemical would have killed the majority of his canola plants that were not genetically engineered to tolerate the weed killer! Schmeiser didn't take advantage of Monsanto's GE technology, but the court ruling says he's guilty of using the seed without a licensing agreement….

The newsletter goes on to say: For more information about Percy Schmeiser's case, go to: http://www.percyschmeiser.com. To see the 62-page decision by Canada's federal court judge Andrew MacKay go to: http://www.fct-cf.gc.ca

Source: Rural Advancement Foundation International (RAFI); 110 Osborne St., Suite 202, Winnipeg MB R3L 1Y5 CANADA; phone (204) 453-5259; fax (204) 925-8034; email rafi@rafi.org; http://www.rafi.org.

For more information about PANUPS, which covers many things that industry and government would rather we not know, visit http://www.panna.org.

Rosolio: The Scents of Spring

Moving more radically towards food, despite the cold of the past few weeks, which has produced frost that has done considerable damage in Tuscany, to both the vines (Chianti, Montalcino, Montepulciano and the Maremma have all been hit, in some areas badly) and the fruit trees, roses are beginning to bloom. They're beautiful to look at, but one can also do more, capturing their essence to enjoy them later in the year. How? By making rosolio, the sweet liqueur enjoyed by the Ladies in the 1800s. And not only; Elisabetta's Uncle Renzo used to tell about loving the beignets filled with rosolio they sold at fairs when he was a boy (early 1900s); they were called mangia e be'i, eat n'drink, and half the fun was eating them without squirting the rosolio all over. Here's a recipe drawn from a collection of flower-based recipes on an Italian site whose URL I forgot to record.

"This is a Sicilian recipe," they say, "and quite simple. Gather red roses in perfect bloom during the hottest hours of the day, when their perfume is at its headiest. Pluck the petals, discarding the light-colored rim at the base because it's slightly bitter. Weigh out 1 3/4 ounces (40 g) of petals, put them in a large jar with a vanilla bean, and cover them with a quart (1 liter) of 190 proof (95%) alcohol. Seal the jar and let the contents steep for two weeks. When the two weeks are up, make a syrup by brining a pound (500 g) of sugar to a boil in 3 1/4 cups (800 ml) of water. Strain the rose petals and vanilla bean out of the alcohol, return the alcohol to the jar, stir in the syrup, seal, and let it all sit for another two weeks, then filter and bottle it."

To be frank, this is going to be rather strong, but it should be quite nice. If you'd rather a weaker drink, use good quality vodka (80 proof, or 40% alcohol) rather than grain alcohol.

Here's another idea, to undertake in the beginning of June, when walnuts begin to develop and their rinds are still full of delightfully flavorful juices:

Rosnoce

• 30 rose petals, from bright red flowers in perfect bloom
• 5 green walnuts
• 5 cloves
• 1/2 inch of a cinnamon stick
• The zest of a lemon
• 1 bottle Malvasia Emiliana (a dry white wine from Emilia Romagna)
• 1/4 cup grain alcohol (95%, 190 proof)

Begin by donning gloves and quartering the nuts. Use a non-absorbent chopping board and be careful not to get the juice on anything you care about, because it may be clear as it comes out of the nut, but it rapidly becomes a deep brown walnut stain that simply won't come off.

Put the nuts in a large glass jar with the remaining ingredients, seal the jar, and let everything steep for 40 days, shaking the bottle every now and then. Strain the liquid, run it through a filter paper, bottle it, and age it for 8 months before serving it to your friends.

More on how to make liqueurs at home
A printer-friendly version of these recipes.

Babà

While we're on the subject of sweet things and alcohol, I also recently had a request for Babà, a heavenly pastry that was supposedly invented by the chef of an exiled Slavic king who settled in Nancy (France). Word of the man's voluptuous creation rapidly got around, and someone took it to Naples, where it the pastry shops adopted it with great enthusiasm. Enthusiasm that continues unabated; the Neapolitans are considered the master babà-makers of Italy. The recipe is drawn from my translation of Pellegrino Artusi's Scienza in Cucina e L'Arte di Mangiar Bene (Random House).

"This pastry," says Artusi, "wants to look its maker in the eye. In other words, it requires care and patience to make it."

• 2 1/2 cups (250 g) flour
• 3/8 cup (75 g) unsalted butter
• 1/3 cup Sultana raisins
• 2 tablespoons stemmed Malaga raisins
• 1 1/2 tablespoons baker's yeast
• About a half cup milk, or, better yet, cream
• 2 eggs plus one yolk
• 1 tablespoon Marsala
• 1 tablespoon rum or cognac
• 1 tablespoon candied citron, cut into thin strips
• A pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Using a quarter of the flour and a drop of the milk, make a starter loaf of the proper consistency with the yeast. Cut a cross on the surface of the loaf, not for fear of witches, but to be able to tell how much it has risen, and set the loaf near enough to the fire so it will be barely warmed, in a covered bowl, with a few drops of milk. While it is rising, a process that will require about a half hour, crack the eggs into a bowl and stir them with the sugar. Then mix in the remaining flour, the starter loaf, the butter, which should be melted and warm, the spirits, and, if the dough comes out too stiff, a little milk. Stir the dough until it comes away from the sides of the bowl, then mix in the fruit and set it to rise. When the dough has risen, shift it about with a wooden spoon and transfer it to a greased pan that's been dusted with powdered sugar and flour.

High sided ribbed copper molds are those best suited for making babà; make sure they're at least double the volume of the dough. Cover the mold with a cloth to protect the dough from drafts and set it in a caldana (a chamber built into the flue, used to keep foods warm; pick a warm draft-free spot) or a barely warm oven to rise, a procedure that will require at least two hours. If everything goes well, the dough will double in volume, reaching the rim of the mold. Bake it, making sure that it doesn't come into contact with drafts. It's cooked when a twig from a broom inserted comes out clean. At this point, because of its size, you should leave it in the hot oven to dry out. The unmolded babà should be the color of bread crust. Dust it with powdered sugar and serve it cold.

As is often the case, Artusi is cursory. Bake the babà in a 380 F (190 C) oven for about 40 minutes. And there is a second problem with the recipe: Artusi, who was against strong drink, neglects to mention that babà is generally served drenched in a liquor made by preparing a syrup with 1 cup water and 3/4 cup sugar, letting it cool, and stirring in a brimming cup of Jamaican rum. If you choose to serve it this way, forego the dusting of powdered sugar, and don't serve it to children. Pastry shops sell babà in individual portions, two of which are sufficient to make a teetotaler tipsy. Since it dries out rapidly (even with the syrup), serve it as soon after baking as possible.

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

Frittelle di riso

And finally, while we're on the subject of sweets, a recipe for frittelle di riso that I transcribed while watching Elisabetta make them. Frittelle are fritters, and though these are quite simple they're also quite good. You'll need:

• 1 3/4 cups (350 g) rice -- cheap rice that gives off starch as it cooks will be fine
• 1 quart (1 l) whole milk
• The grated zest of a lemon
• 4 tablespoons sugar
• A walnut-sized chunk of unsalted butter
• 3 eggs, separated
• 1 jigger rum or vinsanto
• 1 cup (100 g) flour
• 1 packet active live yeast
• Oil for frying

Begin by cooking the rice until it's thoroughly cooked in the milk, together with the sugar, lemon zest, and butter. Let the mixture cool, and stir in the three yolks. Stir in the rum or vinsanto. Whip the whites and fold them in, then fold in the flour and the yeast.

Heat oil in a fairly deep pot and fry the mixture, a teaspoon at a time, removing the balls from the pot when they become golden. Drain them on absorbent paper, dust them with granulated sugar, and serve.

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

This week's proverb is Ligurian. Lé megio ese invidiae che compatï: Better to be envied than pitied.

A presto,
Kyle Phillips
Webweaver, About Italian Cuisine

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