To begin with, the most recent feature added to the site is dedicated to Frico, a fried cheese dish made from Montasio, Friuli Venezia-Giulia's signature cheese. It can be made with just cheese, at which point it's a crunchy, tasty snack that's also an ideal party food, or it can contain other ingredients as well, at which point it becomes softer and is a perfect second course for the cold winter months. The card of the week is instead San Cerbone, which is discussed below.

Massa Marittima

Last weekend I was invited to Massa Marittima for the presentation of the new vintage of Moris Farms's Monteregio DOC wine, which is a fruity Sangiovese-based red with a delightfully enticing bouquet that I was much impressed by. It will be excellent with rich first course dishes, and with lighter meat-based entrees as well. The Moris family came to Massa Marittima from Spain about 400 years ago, and their family palace is just off the Piazza del Duomo; the presentation dinner was held at 8, by which time it was dark, and the square was quite romantic.

But first, a bit of background:

The Maremma is a wild section of southwestern Tuscany, a mixture of coastal plains, craggy valleys, and hills that rise inland towards Monte Amiata, while the island of Elba is off the coast, with Corsica on the horizon. It's a beautiful area, but was also feared in the past because of the malaria that infested the lowlands, and as a result the few who had to live there settled the hilltops. The Aldobrandeschi, one of the great feudal families of the middle ages, established Massa Marittima on a hill known as Monteregio (the royal mountain) sometime between the 7th and 8th centuries AD. The town was well situated, providing easy access to the ore veins that are plentiful in the area, and in the 10th century the local Bishop selected it to be his see. Construction of the cathedral, San Cerbone, began shortly thereafter, and as the town increased in importance the Bishop's successors refortified the city walls; by 1225 Massa was a thriving free commune, and a new section, now called the Città Nuova, was added above the old part of town.

A wealthy mining town was a tempting target, and indeed the Sienese moved in, occupying Massa Marittima in 1335; they substantially increased the size of the Palazzo Pretorio, where the governor lived, and also fortified the walls separating the old and new parts of town, building a keep that considerably strengthened the town's defenses, while dominating the citizenry as well. The plague dealt Massa a tremendous first blow in 1348, and then the ore veins began to give out. Mining stopped in 1396, and since the malaria in the lowlands made agriculture unsafe the population gradually declined; by the end of the Medici rule in the 1730s there were only 537 inhabitants. Recovery came with the House of Lorraine, which drained the lowlands to curb the malaria, and also relaunched the mining industry; in the recent past mining has given way to tourism, while the agriculture is in the process of shifting from grain and animal husbandry towards viticulture and olive growing.

One can explore Massa Marittima in the course of a morning, and it's perfectly positioned to serve as a base from which to explore the surrounding countryside. To begin with Massa, you'll want to start in Piazza Garibaldi, the square in front of the Cathedral. San Cerbone, perched atop a slight rise, has a beautiful late 13th century Romanesque façade that's among the best preserved in Tuscany; note the bas-reliefs above the door and the statues above the rosette. The interior is vast and very calm, with a number of beautiful artworks; in particular you'll want to see the baptismal font with scenes from the life of the Baptist in the right nave, which was done in 1267 by Giroldo da Como. The 13th century crucifixion at the head of the right nave is by one of Duccio di Buoninsegna's followers. The main altar has Goro di Gregorio's the Arca di San Cerbone (1324), with scenes from the life of the saint, while the Madonna with Child at the head of the left nave is based on Duccio's Maestà (which is in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo in Siena); the panting was likely done in 1316 by one of the Master's followers. The chapel also has a few fragments from a panel that was stolen at the beginning of the past century and sawed up so the thieves could sell individual saints on the black market (what you see was recovered from a compartment in a suitcase bound for Paris).

When you leave the cathedral, to the left you will see the Palazzo Pretorio, the Governor's palace, with the coats of arms of the various governors who held sway over Massa. It's now the town museum, with a number of prehistoric artifacts including a stela (stylized human statue) dating to 3000 BC, some beautiful paintings, including Ambrogio Lorenzetti's Maestà, coins and dies from the period when Massa minted its own coinage, and, in the upper floors, a nice collection of Etruscan artifacts; the views from the windows as you climb the stairs are quite nice, and the prison cells on the top floor add an unexpected counterpoint.

As you emerge from the Palazzo you will see, across the square and down a gentle incline, a building with porticoes. It was the grain silo in the middle ages and was therefore called the Palazzo dell'Abbondanza (the Palace of Abundance); it also hosts the town's major fountain under the arches, where people used to come to get drinking water, and has an anonymous fresco on the back wall that ranks among the most unusual I have seen; it's entitled "The Fertility Tree," and features women standing under a tree with dozens of lavishly erect phalluses hanging from the branches. There are scholars who say the phalluses are actually cakes, which may be true, but the way one of the women uses a stick to drive away the birds flying under the branches (or pull a phallus down), and the way another couple fight over one they have managed to get is eloquent enough. In any case, the fresco, which was hidden under encrustations prior to a recent restoration, seems to have been painted in 1265, and probably refers to an ancient fertility festival that was still celebrated in the 1200s but was subsequently suppressed and forgotten.

Return to Piazza Garibaldi and walk down Via Butigni, the lane to the right of San Cerbone; the house to the right, with the clock tower and the terracotta statues on the walls, belongs to the Moris family. You will come to Via Parenti, which leads to a city gate; after admiring it turn the other way and walk on past the tourist office, which once hosted the town mint, and turn up the next alley (immediately after street number 32). To the left you'll see a narrow alley that tunnels through the buildings; follow it. After about 50 yards, to the left there will be a grate with a well behind; according to the plaque on the wall, this is where Bindaco Pannoccieschi, Pia de'Tolomei's husband (he had her put to death to marry somone else; she tells Dante "Siena made me and the Maremma unmade me" when she meets him in the Purgatory), drowned on May 1 1300. Continue until the alley ends and follow the steps Via della Libertà; the building to the left with the stylized sun (number 63) on the façade is where San Bernardino da Siena was born. Via della Libertà leads back into Piazza Garibaldi; to the right as you enter the square the town hall will be to your right; it was assembled by combining three 12-14th century buildings and unifying the composition with a travertine façade. The Casa dei Conti di Biserno, with its pretty renaissance windows (number 7) is also nice.

From Piazza Garibaldi take via Moncini up to the Città Nuova; the street climbs gently for a short ways, and then becomes stepped, with ridges to allow horses' hooves to gain purchase. You'll enter the new part of town through the Porta Sillaci, an imposing gate built by the Sienese after they took power; immediately beyond the gate is an older tower known as the Torre del Candeliere o Torre dell'Orologio that the Sienese incorporated in their defensive structure, linking it to the walls with a breathtaking arch. To the left in the square is the Palazzo delle Armi, the garrison that was built in the 1443 that is now home to Massa's Museo di Arte e Storia delle Miniere, a museum that traces the history of mining in the region from the Etruscan times to today. If you go up Corso Diaz, and turn left onto Via Populonia, you'll come to a 17th century olive press. If you go straight you'll reach Sant'Afostino, a pretty Gothic church begin in 1300, with an elegant apse and pleasing cloisters (it's currently under restoration).

If you don't take Corso Diaz, but instead walk past the Palazzo delle Armi and though the gate, you'll come to the church of San Francesco, which serves a convent that is said to have been founded by Francis himself in 1220. The building was once considerably longer, but the nave was shortened when the ground gave way. There is, in any case, a nice 12th century crucifix and a painting with scenes from the life of San Cerbone.

It will by now be time for lunch. There are a number of restaurants in Massa. However, if you want something special, take your car and drive down the hill to Ghirlanda (towards Siena); the Ristorante Bracali is one of the best in Tuscany (Località Ghirlanda 2, tel 0566 902 318; closed Tuesdays, 100,000 lire/person plus wines).

Another option, in town: Da Tronca, Via delle Porte 5 (Tel 0566 901 991; open evenings and closed Wednesdays; 35,000 lire/person plus wines). Classic Tuscan country cooking.

A couple of places to stay:

• La Fenice (3 stars) Very pleasant, new hotel in the Città Nuova, with suites that are extremely pleasant and also have kitchenettes. They offer discounts of you stay a week or more. See http://www.lafeniceresidence.it, or call on 0566 903 941.
• Il Sole (3 stars) Pleasant hotel in the heart of town, with parking and ameneities. Tel 0566 901 971, from 130,000 lire/night for a double occupancy room).

Getting to Massa Marittima: If you're coming from Rome or Milano, the easiest way to reach Massa Marittima is to take the Autostrada and then the Aurelia, the old coastal road that has now been transformed into a 4-lane highway; exit at Follonica and take the Massetana (SS 439) inland. If you're coming from Florence and don't mind a winding drive, take the Autopalio to Siena and then follow SS 441 until it leads into the Massetana.

What to do after you've explored Massa Marittima? That's going to be the subject of the itinerary in issue number 5 of the Italian Wine Review, my wine newsletter: From the mountains to the sea, and the wines along the way.

Tips on Buying Rice

Moving in a very different direction, if you visit other sites on About, you will see that the company is now looking into E-Commerce, and that Guides are being asked to do product reviews and suggestions. With this in mind, some thoughts on rice. To the uninitiated it may appear simple, but there are dozens of strains, some long-grained and others short, some starchy and others not, and each has its uses.

Here are five of the most common rices one will find in Italian markets:

Originario

Short, round grains that do a fine job of absorbing sauces.

It's an excellent choice for dishes that have you boil your rice and then season it with a sauce, preparations in which you season your rice with vegetables and cheese and then brown everyhing in the oven, and for soups; it's also an excellent choice for desserts such as budino di riso and snacks such as arancini or supplì.

Cooking time: 15 minutes.

Alternatives: other short, round--grained rices such as Balilla or Padano

Integrale

This is a whole-grain rice that has had just the outermost part of the husk removed; with respect to more polished rices it's considerably richer in proteins, fibers, salts, and minerals. Because it's unprocessed and you are eating some of the husk, you should make sure that what you buy was organically grown.

It works very nicely with greens and legumes (add it to them already cooked), and can also be nice in sformati. Cook it in 3 times its volume of water

Cooking time: about an hour.

Carnaroli

One of the finest Italian rices; it's short grained with round grains (the grains are larger than those of Originario), and has a delightful texture.

It's perfect for risotti, timballi, and other baked rice dishes.

Cooking time: 18-20 minutes

Alternatives: Arborio, and Vialone Nano, the great rice of the Veneto region, whose grains are slightly smaller.

Parboiled

Yes, it's available in Italy too. It's a rice (usually Ribe or Baldo if it's Italian) that's steam treated to make the grains firmer; parboiled rice generally cooks very quickly but does not become mush if it is overcooked. One of the side effects of the treatment is that the grains don't stick to each other, and this means that parboiled rice is not suited to risotti. It is, on the other hand, ideal for things like insalata di riso a rice salad that's very refreshing when it's hot, and perfect for picnics.

Cooking time: 5-15 minutes

Long grained rice

These are oriental rices with long, slender grains; the best known is Basmati, which is extraordinarily perfumed. It's not suited for risotti because the grains remain separate, but adds a delightful touch to other rice-based dishes, and raises the classic rice with a little butter and freshly grated cheese to great heights. The bast way to cook it is the pilaf method, putting it in a pot with twice its volume of water and cooking it until the water is completely absorbed.

Cooking time: 10-12 minutes

A few thoughts on storage:

• Rice keeps well, but it is better fresh than old, so don't buy so much at once that you have it sitting around for months or even years. In all cases, keep it dry.
• Unrefined rice is more perishable, and shouldn't be exposed to sunlight, because the oils in the husk can become rancid.
• Once you have opened a package of rice, transfer it into a clean glass jar and keep it in a cool dark place.
• To shorten the cooking time, soak the rice in the water you'll be cooking it in for 2 hours (measure out the water precisely).
• Cooked rice, especially whole grain or parboiled, will keep for several days in the refrigerator, and is good reheated in a pan with other ingredients, or as a stuffing, or in fritters.

An Italian preparation with Basmati rice? Here we go, from the pages of an old issue of Sale e Pepe:

Riso all'Indiano con Scalogni e Zucchine -- Indian Rice with Shallots and Zucchine

To be frank, there isn’t much that's Indian here, but it is what they call it, and it does look nice. To serve 4 you'll need:

• 1 1/2 cups (300 g) Basmati rice
• 3 ounces (75 g) pancetta, diced
• 3 zucchine, julienned
• A yellow bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, ribbed, and cut into fine dice
• A fresh jalapeno pepper, stemmed, seeded, ribbed, and minced
• 2 shallots, finely sliced
• 2 leaves fresh coriander, minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• Salt

Cut up the vegetables, combining the hot pepper and coriander.

Preheat your oven to 320 F (160 C)

Bring a pot of salted water to a boil ad cook the rice until it's al dente, about 15 minutes. Drain the rice, turn it out onto a clean dishtowel, pat it dry, and set it in the oven for 5-6 minutes to dry.

Sauté the pancetta in the oil in a deep non-stick pan, and when it begins to color add the shallots, zucchini and pepper and cook over a brisk flame, shaking the pan, for 5-6 minutes. The vegetables should soften but not loose their crunch; when the time is up add the minced herbs and check seasoning. Combine the rice and the vegetables, and serve.

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

Cucina Ebraica, Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen

Winding down, Joyce Goldstein is not Italian, as anyone who hears her name would guess. However, she first came to Italy many years ago and fell in love with the country, and dedicate much of the two years that passed before her next visit to thinking about things Italian. When she returned to Perugia with her husband to study art and architecture the Fulbright committee placed them with an elderly Jewish family consisting of Guido Coen, his wife Clara, and Guido's two sisters; Perugia's Jewish population had shrunk so much that they had the Synagogue in their house, and the Rabbi came from Florence once a week to slaughter chickens according to the Laws on the balcony. Alas, neither Clara nor Guido's sisters were good cooks, and Joyce notes that though "the overcooking did seem familiarly Jewish, the flavors were definitely Italian."

When Joyce and her husband moved to Rome she continued her search for Jewish foods in the Capital, discovering that many of the dishes that were considered Jewish were also made by Roman Gentiles, and that many of the Jewish restaurants did not keep Kosher, employing pancetta and combining diary and meat items in the meals. But she did find Jewish roots, studied, took copious notes, and when she returned to the US moved from New York to San Francisco and began to cook, teaching Italian cooking classes and running Italian restaurants. And she has continued to study, discovering in the process that many Italian recipes and procedures have Jewish roots. With the benefit of hindsight a book was inevitable, and her Cucina Ebriaca, Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen is quite nicely done; she provides a detailed history of Italian Jewry, beginning with the Jewish traders who settled in the Peninsula long before the birth of Christ, then tracing the fates of the Jewish communities over the centuries of Christian domination, and on through to the modern times. There's also a discussion of Kosher laws and holiday meals, and then there are the recipes, which are fascinating.

Joyce was well aware that even if some of her readers were familiar with Jewish foods, the probably weren't going to be familiar with Italian Jewish foods and traditions, and she therefore explains in great detail. For example,

Riso con Brodo di Piselli, Rice in Pea Pod Broth with Peas (page 72):

Unlike the Venetian classic risi e bisi that it resembles, this Jewish version of pea risotto uses a broth made from pea pods rather than chicken or meat broth. The result is a lovely pale green risotto. In the original recipe from La Cucina nella Tradizione Ebraica, the peas and onions were sautéed, then the rice was added, and the rice and peas were cooked for nearly a half hour. Most peas are tender after 10 or 15 minutes, so if you like you can add the peas midway through the cooking time of the risotto. A shorter time over the heat will help them retain their color as well.

Serves 6

• 3 pounds [1.5 k] English peas
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 large carrots, peeled and chopped
• 2 celery stalks, chopped
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 2/3 cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
• 2 cups Arborio rice
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Grated Parmesan cheese (optional)

Remove the peas from their pods. Set the peas aside (you should have 3 to 3 1/2 cups) and put the pods, one of the chopped onions, the carrots, and the celery in a large saucepan. Add water to cover and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the pea pods are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from the heat.

Working in batches, puree the vegetables, pea pods, and the cooking water in a blender. If the puree is too fiberous, pass it through a food mill or sieve. You will need 6 cups of broth for the risotto, so add additional vegetable broth or water to the puree to total this amount and so it is thin enough to be easily absorbed by the rice. Pour the broth into a saucepan and bring it to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer.

Warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the remaining chopped onion and half of the parsley and sauté until softened, about 8 minutes. Add the rice and stir until opaque, about 3 minutes. Add a ladleful (about one cup) of the simmering broth and stir for 3 to 4 minutes until the liquid is absorbed. Reduce the heat and continue to add broth a ladleful at a time, waiting until each addition is absorbed before adding the next, until the rice kernels are al dente at the center and creamy on the outside, about 18-20 minutes in all. Add the peas midway through the cooking (just before the last 2 additions of broth). Season with salt and pepper.

Remove from the heat and transfer to a warmed serving dish. Sprinkle with the remaining parsley and a little Parmesan cheese, if using. Serve immediately.

Notes: If English peas are not in season, use snow peas or sugar snap peas for the broth. If you don't want to use frozen peas in the risotto, use sugar snap peas cut in half and blanched. Just remember that most vegetables in the Italian Jewish tradition are not al dente but are cooked all the way through.

Mira Sacerdoti's family uses less rice in this recipe and thins the dish with lots of pea broth. The result is a pea soup with rice rather than rice made with pea broth.

Lots of information in a clear, concise package. The book is about 200 pages long and has at least that many recipes, which cover all the essentials, from antipasti through rice, pasta, and soups, to greens, to fish, to poultry and other meats, and on through to desserts and sweet treats. There are recipes for every occasion, and though some will look familiar to a reader familiar with other Jewish traditions, many will not, and the same will hold true for those familiar with Italian traditions -- some things will look familiar, while others will be decidedly new. The presentation is completed by nicely done photographs of the dishes; this is a book that you could keep on a small coffee table, but it will be better off in the kitchen where it will provide inspiration.

Practical stuff:

Cucina Ebraica, Flavors of the Italian Jewish Kitchen

By Joyce Goldstein

1998 Chronicle Books (San Francisco)

ISBN 0-8118-1969-8

A printer-friendly version of this recipe.

This week's proverb is Ligurian. A pötronaja a genera a noia, e fà nasce o bezêugno: Laziness brings boredom, and gives birth to need.

A presto,
Kyle Phillips
Webweaver, About Italian Cuisine

The Cosa Bolle Index
PS -- Send a card from the Italian Cuisine Post Office, or browse the photos!

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