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Question Number 1

Oregano? No.
Though some dishes wouldn't be quite right without oregano , it's hardly used at all in large sections of the country, especially in the north. Somthing with it?

Carne Alla Pizzaiola


No collection of cutlet and scaloppini recipes would be complete without this: "It's so humble and so simple it has no history -- nobody knows who invented it or when, though the name suggests its cradle may have been a pizza oven, and its father the pizzaiolo. But does it matter? Let's just enjoy it as it deserves (Caròla Francesconi, La Cucina Napoletana, p. 433)."

  • 2 pounds veal scallops
  • 1 pound drained canned, or fresh tomatoes
  • Freshly minced oregano, to taste (dry will do if you have to).
  • 1/4 cup olive oil
  • 2 cloves garlic
  • Salt & pepper to taste
  • 1/2 cup dry white wine

Clean the slices of meat, trimming away gristle and nicking the membranes. Lay them out in a large skillet, salt them lightly, and cover them with the tomatoes (quartered if fresh, halved if canned). Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and cook over a moderate flame for about an hour, checking every now and then and adding a little more liquid if things are drying out.

Ms Francesconi goes on to observe that "the wine is optional, but adds flavor. The sauce should be thick and shiny, and is excellent over pasta, though in this case you should use more tomatoes."

As a variation, she suggests you begin by sautéing the garlic in the oil; when it has browned remove and discard it, and fry the cutlets, arranging them on a platter when they're done. Next, cook the tomatoes and the other ingredients in the skillet to make the sauce, adding the wine last, and when it has evaporated, return the meat to the pan to heat it through. Serve, with a nice white wine such as a Fiano, or a fruity red. A side dish? Broccoli rabe strascinati.

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