Eating Out in Italy
For a time, I also wrote restaurant reviews, as my travels around Italy do require eating out often. I have stopped because I rarely go to the same place twice, and reviews do have to be confirmed from year to year. But I have decided to leave the reviews I did up, because they will at least provide hints of places to go. Here you will find reviews of restaurants outside Tuscany, as well as suggestions from Cosa Bolle in Pentola (the newsletter).
Locanda delle Tamerici (La Spezia, Southern Liguria)
Ristorante Da Rita (Montefiascone - Near Orvieto)
La Mongolfiera di Sodi (Erbusco, near Brescia)
Ristroante Greppia (Verona, Veneto)
Ristorante da Pietro (Novello, Above Alba, Piemonte)
Trattoria della Posta (Monfote d'Alba, Piemonte)
Il Cascinale Nuovo (Isola d'Asti, Piemonte)
Vigin Mudest (Alba, Piemonte)
San Domenico (Imola, Emilia Romagna)
Ristorante La Brace (Codemondo, near Reggio Eemilia, Emilia Romangna)
Il Cenacolo (Verona, Veneto)
Il Calmiere (Verona, Veneto)
Manuelina (Recco, Liguria)
Castello di Santa Vittoria (Outside Alba, Piemonte)
L'Aquila D'Oro (Near Cormons, Friuli)
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Friuli
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Caserta
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Venezia
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Roma
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Napoli
Suggestions from Cosa Bolle: Trapani
Locanda delle Tamerici
Via Littoranea 106, Fiumaretta - Ameglia (La Spezia) Tel: (0187) 64 262. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays at lunch.
If you are in Versilia, or even as far away as Lucca, and want to treat yourself to an extraordinary dining experience, go to the Locanda delle Tamerici, on the Aurelia barely across the border into Liguria (before the turnoff for Bocca di Magra). We told Mauro, the owner and Chef, to do as he wished and were very fortunate thereby. The meal began with marinated swordfish on salad, followed by delicately prepared vegetables fried in tempura batter, steamed rana pescatrice with a zucchino in a green sauce, and scampi with tomato mayonnaise. All superb, and so pretty it was almost a shame to eat them. The appetizers were followed by gnocchi with baby shrimp and a mild pesto sauce and home-made tagliatelle blackened with the ink from the cuttlefish that went into the sauce. The main course consisted of baked branzino with nicely spiced potatoes and onions, and sautéed orata with an onion cream sauce and baby potatoes. Again superb, and again beautifully presented. Dessert was a delicate chocolate mousse. The wine? We had a Cinque Terre made by a small producer who's experimenting with bottle fermentation -- nice fruit slightly overbalanced by the wood, but extremely pleasant nonetheless.
The cost? Not cheap, but if you want to celebrate a special occasion you cannot do much better than this.
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Ristorante da Rita
Via Grazie 37, Montefiascone (VT) Tel 0761 826 710, Closed Wednesdays
If you're driving from Rome to Florence and decide to stop at lake Bolsena, you should also stop at Rita's to enjoy the fish. The restaurant is slightly outside of the center of town, and just off the Cassia; finding it is difficult but worth the effort. The décor is very traditional 1960s and the waiters are dressed like waiters; the place settings include fish knives to underline the nature of the place. The pennette alle alici fresche were quite pleasant; abundant tiny, freshly cooked alici (they're similar to sardines) filets in a delicate tomato based sauce perfectly balanced by garlic and parsley. For a second I had grilled swordfish, and was brought a steak knife. It was nicely done and quite tasty, with the lemon slice providing the necessary note of acidity. As a side dish grilled eggplant cooked with a bare minimum of salt and no pepper, and for dessert a traditional crostata di frutta (a disk of shortbread with a thin layer of custard and fresh fruit), which was a bit of a letdown -- the peaches were canned. The wine? Cantine Falesco Est! Est! Est!, which arrived in an ice bucket. It has a pleasant, clean bouquet, with floral notes and hints of green pepper, and on the palate is full and pleasantly fruity, with a touch of bitterness in the finish. No wood, nor is it missed. The cost? 40,000 lire, which is quite reasonable.
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Ristorante la Mongolfiera di Sodi
Via Cavour 7, Erbusco, Tel: I-30 7268303 (closed Thursdays).
You have to ring to get in, and once you have passed through the gate, enter the restaurant proper through a carved wooden door that looks Venetian. The décor is quite elegant, with crystal goblets and silver underplates. I ordered hand-rolled tagliatelle with an asparagus & spinach sauce, and while I awaited their arrival was brought a pair of crostini as an appetizer, one with liver paté, and the other with very finely sliced lard prepared according to a traditional family recipe - tasty, somewhat salty with just a touch of spices. The pasta was good, and the sauce had lots of asparagus tips, which were nicely balanced by the spinach, and just a tiny bit of tomato. As a second course I asked for stewed beef in a vegetable sauce, and was brought an odd looking toothed fork, designed "to allow me to eat the meat and the sauce together."It worked; the meat was very tender and simply broke apart, while the sauce was a faint orange that suggested carrots, and had a pleasant celery-like cleanness to it. The rolls were warmed (a rarity in Italy), and the butter (another rarity) was freshly scraped curleyques. The wine? The sommelier suggested a 1995 Terre di Franciacorta Rosso, by Ferghettina, a new winery he thinks is going to go places. I'd have to agree; the wine was quite enjoyable - spicy on the nose, with blackcurrants and berries mixed with vanilla, on the palate good fruit and well-rounded, slightly dusty tannins with a bit of bite to them, and a nice long finish. Dessert was a pair of crepes with stewed pears, in a kirsch sauce. The cost? 65,000 lire - quite reasonable considering the setting and the food.
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Ristorante Greppia
Via Samaritana (off Via Mazzini, near Via Cappello), Verona.
This is one of Verona's oldest restaurants. I asked for local foods, and was brought gnocchi with a horsemeat ragú that was quite good -- somewhat sweeter than beef, and lightly spiced. As a second course I had Pastissada, a traditional horsemeat stew, made with an intriguing mix of spices that included cloves, an ingredient one doesn't find in Tuscany. I closed with cheese. The wine? House wine, a simple Valpolicella: light, fruity, and clean on the palate. Cost: 65,000 lire, which is quite reasonable.
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Pietro Montese's Ristorante da Pietro
Novello, not far from Alba (Piemonte) -- Tel: 0173 731498, in the first square you will come to in the middle of town if you are coming from Barolo.
I began with an elegantly presented carne cruda con crema Raschera calda, very finely sliced raw beef (raw meats are a Piemontese specialty) with a delicate creamy cheese sauce that perfectly complements the flavors of the meat. We then passed to a tortino all'asparago con salsa di basilico, an asparagus tart made with freshly picked wild asparagus, served in a wonderfully flaky pastry shell. It melts in the mouth, and is beautifully complimented by a basil sauce made with oil and breadcrumbs, and perhaps a hint of lemon -- no garlic. The appetizers closed with rabbit in an apple vinegar sauce with fresh onion grass. Extraordinarily tender, and delightful. It was served with snow peas, a pleasant touch.
The first course was ravioli filled with greens (to be specific, Barbabuk, a local green that's picked before it flowers) and sausage in a barely-cooked tomato sauce. The stuffing was deftly made, with just the right spicing, and was admirably balanced by the sauce. As a second I had petto d'anatra in aceto balsamico, duck breast served with a balsamic vinegar sauce. Very tender, with the gaminess of the duck nicely balanced by the vinegar and the stewed leeks upon which it was served; the carrots with poppy seeds were also nicely done. To close, a selection of Piemontese cheeses, whose variability and tastiness never cease to amaze me.
The wine? A Cigliutti Barbera Seraboella 1994. It's a deep red, and has an elegant bouquet with intense stewed, almost dried cherries laced with alcohol, licorice and the warmth of a hot afternoon. On the palate it is pleasantly full, with well rounded tannins, rich fruit, especially cherries, and a persistent, somewhat tart finish that brings to mind a Valpolicella Classico Superiore made with the ripassa technique. An intriguing wine well worth seeking out.
Unlike many of the other restaurants in the Barolo area, which do a wonderful job while adhering strictly to tradition, Pietro's dishes have a more experimental flair to them. This is in part because he also teaches at Alba's restaurant school, and in part because he sees no reason to make something others have been making for much longer. He'd rather do a carefully thought-out variation, and we are fortunate thereby. The décor is modern and quite pleasant, with quiet jazz in the background, and the views from the picture windows are very nice. The cost? About 50,000 lire plus the wine -- the list is extensive, with everything from Freisa to superb but little-known Baroli.
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Trattoria della Posta
Monforte d'Alba (Piemonte), Piazza XX Settembre (Tel. I- (173) 78-120, closed Thursday).
To reach the dining hall you pass through the kitchen, thus getting an idea of the marvels that await you. This time I had mixed pickles as an appetizer, which sounds a lot less impressive than it was: delicately flavored baby zucchini, grilled eggplant with just a touch of oil (beautifully balanced by the tartness of the vinegar), an egg fried easy over and lightly pickled, and a breaded cutlet fried and then marinated in a mix of minced vegetables seasoned with a few drops of vinegar. The people at the other tables around me progressed to chicken salad, stuffed peppers, and other goodies, while I passed straight to the first course, tagliatelle verdi ai funghi, pasta made with spinach and cut into 1/4-inch strips, served with an abundance of porcini mushrooms sautéed in butter with juts a hint of tomato sauce. Very good. Piemonte is known for its stews, and this time I had wild boar. It was cooked to perfection and flaky, with the slightly bitter tang that's typical of wild boar nicely balanced by a faintly peppery marinade. At some point a baked porcino cap also appeared -- beautifully presented on a grape leaf that had, with the assistance of a slice of tomato, kept it from drying out in the oven. It was rich, meaty, and delicious. To close, a selection of goat cheeses from the highlands above the vineyards, served with dollops of granulated honey and a traditional jam made from grape must. The wine? The wine list covers all of Piemonte and rivals some novels in length -- I finally asked Massolino Sabino, the hostler, to select one for me. A wise move on my part; Cerequio's Tenuta Secolo Contratto 1990, from La Morra, is one of the finest Baroli I've tasted. It's a spectacular deep red and has an astonishingly powerful, complex bouquet, with stewed maraschino cherries, roses and spice. On the palate it's rich, full, and powerful, with good fruit wonderfully balanced by well-rounded tannins, and tremendous persistence - the classic fist of steel in a velvet glove sought by all Barolo lovers.
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Il Cascinale Nuovo
Strada Statale Asti Alba 15, 14057 Isola D'Asti (AT, Piemonte) Tel 0141 958166
If it weren't for Alba and the castles of the Langhe's being on the other end, there'd be few reasons to take the Statale Asti Alba, which is tremendously traveled by trucks. Except to visit il Cascinale Nuovo, which began life as a truck stop, serving 3-400 people per day, and doing the communion/wedding thing on weekends. Things changed radically when the younger generation took over a while back; Roberto and Walter did away with the barn-like dining hall, transforming the upper half of the restaurant into a comfortable 3 star hotel, and placing a cozy restaurant, with about 20 tables, on the ground floor. The locals thought they were crazy, but word of Walter's ability to reinterpret traditional Piemontese cooking in a modern key soon spread, as did word of Roberto's knack for discovering fine wines.
While one can order from the á la carte menu, Walter's daily special is more interesting. The day I went it began with a tiny Bavarese al Carciofo, Bavarian cream with artichokes, to whet my appetite as I read the wine list. Delicate, tasty, and the right amount. I asked for a traditional Barbera, and Walter suggested a Barbera D'Asti Cascina Croce Villa Dorata, which was quite nice -- elegant bouquet, good fruit, and medium bodied, with well rounded tannins and pleasing acidity. The meal began with a carpaccio di vitella ai profumi d'autunno, veal carpaccio with lemon and flakes of Parmigiano, lightly dusted with autumn herbs. Good, but slightly salty. Next came an insalata di Langhe con petti di quaglia, a delicate salad of freshly picked greens from the nearby hills served with roast quail's breast filet, in a balsamic vinegar sauce. The sauce moderated the gaminess of the meat beautifully, the chopped walnuts sprinkled into the greens added to the texture and their flavor nicely complemented the meat, while the pomegranate seeds also contributed to taste and appearance. Very nicely done, and one begins to understand why people come from all over. The salad was followed by a tortino di verdure con tartufi, a pasty shell with a delicate egg and spinach filling, and a shaving of white truffles. Again, very good. Even better were the tortelli di zucca con Parmigiano e tartufi; the winter squash filling of the had-made tortelli was deftly spiced, and beautifully complemented by the cheese and truffles liberally sliced over it all. Next came capriolo al vino bianco con cardi con besciamella, polenta ai funghi, e broccoli -- an artfully laid out plate with tasty, rich mountain goat stew, served with cardoons in a bechamel sauce, polenta with mushrooms, and delicately sauced broccoli. Individually they were very good, and as a whole they complemented each other surprisingly well -- the sum was considerably more than the parts. After all this, a selection of Piemontese cheeses, served with dried fig marmalade -- something that sounds off but tastes wonderful.
The cost? 120,000 Lire, about 60 dollars. Considering the abundance of truffles quite reasonable; highly recommended -- you won't find many cooks as inspired or inspiring as Walter.
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Trattoria Al Calmiere
Piazza San Zeno 10 (Verona) Tel. 045/8030765; they're closed Wednesday evenings and Thursdays, and you should make reservations.
Should you visit Verona, by all means go to the Trattoria Al Calmiere, in Piazza San Zeno (to the left as you face the church). It's one of the city's most traditional restaurants, with the hall dominated by a huge open fireplace where a chef mans the grill. I had a very pleasant meal the last night of Vinitaly, which began with grilled polenta with a seasoned lard pâté that was delightful, followed by bigoli (thick- stranded pasta) served with a choice of tomato sauce, meat sauce, chopped organ meats, and peas (they brought the pasta and the sauce boats, leaving me to season as I saw fit), and then bollito misto, mixed boiled meats. A good bollito misto (the link it to Piemonte's version, which is similar) is simply glorious, and this was, with beef, horse, capon, tongue, salt tongue, ham, cotechino, brisket and a number of other meats brought out on a cart; I told the chef to give me what he thought best, and enjoyed it all with a zesty salsa verde, pearà (a peppery beef-marrow and breadcrumb sauce), and ground horse radish. Grilled vegetables on the side. The wine? Speri's Valpolicella Classico Superiore Sant'Urbano, which was very nice, and the chef offered me a glass of Anselmi's Recioto di Soave, which brought things to a perfect close.
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San Domenico
Via Sacchi 1, Imola (Emilia Romagna) open daily except Sunday evenings and Mondays; tel. (0542) 29000.
Stu Borken writes"It is in an ancient monastery. The table settings are elegant, the crystal beautiful, the food was presented as works of art and tasted wonderful. There were 5 wine courses which I have sought out since my return to the states and served here, knocking peoples' socks off with them when I present the wines. This is assuredly one of finest restaurants in all of Italy."Tremendous thanks since I will be heading in that direction soon. The restaurant gets 4 stars and a laurel wreath from the 1998 Ristoranti d'Italia, which is as good as they give.
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Ristorante La Brace
Via Carlo Teggi 29, Codemondo (Near Reggio Emilia, Emilia Romagna) open daily except Sunday; tel. (0522) 308.800.
"Bow if you hear the cooking of Bologna mentioned,"writes Pellegrino Artusi"because it deserves it."So does the cooking of Reggio Emilia, which is home to Parmigiano Reggiano, Culatello (a close relative of the better known Prosciutto di Parma) Aceto Balsamico and a host of other marvels; the area also boasts some of Italy's prettiest castles and is a joy to explore, assuming you're not hurrying to or from Milan on the A1 motorway. If you happen to be near the city come mealtime by all means detour to Codemondo, where you will find La Brace.
The name means "The Grill,"and while apt because the first thing you'll see as you enter is the rotisserie, it really doesn't do the place justice. Antipasti are traditional, with an excellent selection of cold cuts; the salamini are home-cured and superb, while the prosciutto, coppa (cured spiced shoulder but) and other meats are from local producers. The selection of first courses is ample, ranging from the extremely simple tagliolini coi cipollotti, home-made pasta with braised onion sauce (onions finely sliced and simmered in broth, no tomato) that are surprisingly delicate, to a variety of more intricate pastas including tortelli di patata (with a tasty slightly oniony sauce that goes well with Lambrusco) and tortelli stuffed with greens and fresh Parmigiano, served with butter and sage.
Second Courses? Lots of things done on the grill, as you might expect. However, this is also the land of aceto balsamico; the insalata di coniglio, grilled rabbit in an aceto balsamico sauce with slices of polenta, is simply extraordinary. Desserts are varied and quite good. Ordering cheese and a pear usually produces just that; here instead the pear was thinly sliced and sprinkled with pine nuts, and served with a tasty selection of pecorino, Parmigiano and scamorza affumicato. The wine list is also quite interesting. Ermes Agnori likes to go on tasting trips and has the best of Tuscany and Piemonte, but you'll do very well with his selection of Lambrusco. Ermete Medici's Concerto is superb. Price? Depending upon what you order, 30-50,000 lire per person. Highly recommended.
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Il Cenacolo
Via Del Teatro Filarmonico 10, Verona Tel 045 592288 (you'll want to make reservations).
The Cenacolo is just behind Piazza Bra (i.e. the Arena), at the end of a tiny street off Via Roma; it's a perfect restaurant for a cool evening, as you'll be greeted by a huge glowing fireplace -- not just décor, but vital, as most of the Cenacolo's specialties are grilled. Though there is doubtless a menu they prefer to offer you a preplanned menu degustazione that's well thought out:
Antipasti began with a few paper-thin slices of prosciutto San Dianele, which is slightly more delicate than Parma, and a slice of bruschetta toasted over the coals and drizzled with olive oil from nearby Lake Garda. Then a tasty selection of grilled vegetables, including eggplant cooked to rare perfection, tomato with a sprinkling of oregano, a mushroom cap with a zesty cheese filling, radicchio rosso, and leek. Tiny portions of all, followed by a grilled polenta sandwich with gorgonzola filling, a slice of mozzarella breaded and fried (very delicate), more lightly grilled cherry tomatoes, grilled peppers with delightfully smoky overtones, and to finish off a small square of superb eggplant Parmigiano. Firsts are traditional Veronese; the risotto with radicchio rosso was light purple and delicately flavored -- it's hard to say what the radicchio provides, though its absence would certainly be noted.
Second was a grigliata mista, mixed meats from the grill: strip steak, a drumstick, some spitted morsels, a couple of spare ribs, and a sausage much like an American breakfast sausage. All cooked to perfection, moist and tender, and lightly salted. Then a bit of roast lamb appeared, with pan-baked potatoes. Again, perfectly cooked, and quite tasty. It might have been nice, however, to have some more vegetables as well.
Dessert? There's an ample selection; the panna cotta was perfect, as was its strawberry sauce. The wine? Though the list is fairly broad, covering much of North Italy and with a smattering of French, it's not as deep as I'd have liked -- just a few top producers from each region. I settled for a zesty Bardolino that went well with the grilled meats. The cost? 95,000 lire, which is a bit much for every day, but would be well worth it for a special occasion, say a night at the opera. Do make reservations.
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Manuelina
Via Roma 296 Recco (Genova) Tel 0185 74-128
The word "enchanting"is much overused in the travel industry, but is none the less appropriate for the Promontory of Portofino: The seas are marvelous, the roads wind through vibrantly green countryside, and each town is more beautiful than the last. Except for Recco, which took a pounding during the War. It is worth stopping at, however, especially at lunch time: Manuelina has been one of Liguria's best restaurants for more than a century.
I began with Focaccia al Formaggio, a wafer-thin focaccia filled with a delicate, slightly sharp melted cheese; the slightly bitter overtones of the cheese complemented the saltiness of the bread beautifully. The appetizer was followed by pansôtti, a Ligurian stuffed pasta with herbs from the hillsides and mild cheese; the walnut sauce that came with it was rich, creamy and had a slightly bitter nutty tang -- again, a perfect marriage. Next came some moscardini, extraordinarily tender, tiny relations of the octopus. They were in a delicate herb sauce with a little bit of olive oil, and were a completely unexpected treat.
As a main course I opted for a baked mushroom with potatoes. An inspired choice; the mushroom was rich, firm and very tasty, while the potatoes had absorbed the juices given off by the mushroom cap and its herbs. This was about the best mushroom I've ever had. Dessert was a simple bianco mangiare (a white pudding similar to panna cotta) with peach gelatin, artfully presented with fresh berry fruit. The wine? Lunae Colli di Luni 1997, which is gold with green reflections, and has an elegant, rich floral bouquet laced with honeysuckle, wisteria, heather, sage, and fruit that shifts from peach towards a lemony apricot with swishing. On the palate it is moderately full, and nicely balanced, with an initial sweetness that gives way to tarter lemon apricot, and closes with a faint bitterness reminiscent of walnut skins. A very pleasant wine perfectly suited to the meal. The cost? About 70,000 lire -- quite reasonable for a dinner this memorable.
Getting there: Take the Genova-Livorno highway and exit at Recco; the ramp winds down to Via Roma. Turn left, inland, and it's about a mile, on the right. The restaurant is associated with an excellent hotel, should you wish to explore the area. It's well worth a visit.
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Castello di Santa Vittoria
Via Cagna 4, Santa Vittoria d'Alba (Cuneo); Tel (0172) 478 147;
This is not a place you come to by chance; Santa Vittoria is off the main road from Asti to Bra shortly before Cinzano, and you have to go up hill until you can go no further. It's worth the effort, however -- the view is magnificent, as is the setting, a restored castle. Were the view all it would still be worth it, but here there's the food too. As I awaited the arrival of the wine, a delightfully fruity Dolcetto d'Alba, the waiter brought a several slices of local salami as a stuzzichino (appetite tickler); they were followed by Carpaccio alla Monregalese, which is thinly sliced raw beef seasoned with olive oil, salt, pepper, herbs, and shredded hard-boiled egg. Beautifully balanced and very tasty. The Carpaccio was followed by a tartino di funghi con fonduta, a mushroom tart with a creamy fondue sauce. The mushrooms and the pancetta in the tart worked quite well together, and the sauce unified it all nicely. The final antipasto was a timballo di merluzzo con salsa di pomodoro, a cod flan with tomato sauce to balance the sweetness of the fish. Delicate and tasty, but less interesting that the prior two.
As a first course I opted for an assaggio of gnocchi and agnolotti, in other words two small portions served together. The agnolotti were delicately seasoned with just the right touch of herbs. Gnocchi are gnocchi and can be good or bad; these were good, and the addition of a little bay leaf to the sauce worked quite well. As a second course I opted for anatra alle prugne, duck breast stuffed with prunes, which was quite good; the sweet acidity of the fruit balanced the richness of the meat, and the whole was slightly peppery. It was served with mixed vegetables, nicely presented. Afterwards? Coffee, and a couple of cookies -- there was more, but I had a business meeting.
Definitely recommended, especially in especially when it's warm enough to eat outside and enjoy the view.
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Il Ristorante Aquila D'Oro
Via Ruttars 11, 34070 Dolegna del Collio (GO); Tel 0481 61255. Closed Sundays and Mondays.
If you're in the Udine/Gorizia area, dedicate a night to the Aquila D'Oro; it's off the road that passes through Cividale and Cormons, and to be more specific you turn towards Slovenia del Collio by a traffic light in the town of Brazzano (the fork is quite evident if you're coming from Cormons). You'll leave town and the road will become inky dark, and then you'll see the imposing twin towers of the castle rising up from the battlements. Quite beautiful, and at the restaurant you'll find your table set with a damask tablecloth, silver, and crystal, while the waiters all have white gloves. The food is just as impressive, and made to order -- they don't have a freezer and therefore buy fresh every day. It's obvious that the menu will vary with the season; I began with fresh scampi from the Adriatic wrapped in lard and quickly grilled, served with a cream of beans seasoned with local olive oil. The shrimp was very tasty and seemed to melt on the tongue, while the bean cream provided a pleasant contrast both texturally and in terms of flavor. The shrimp were followed by a creamy risotto with winter vegetables and a supreme of red partridge whose rich nutty flavor complemented the slightly bitter notes of the vegetables. Delightful balance, and the wine, a Collio Merlot, matched beautifully. The second course was more international, a plate with beef stew and glazed pork that were flavorful to the point of being just shy of being salty, served with a creamed, gratined cauliflower floret, a spinach packet wrapped in lard that added a delightful note, and some peppers; it was accompanied by a voluptuous Cabernet-Refosco blend that was a bit over the top but worked quite well with the meats. Dessert was a selection of offerings and beautifully presented, with a superb chocolate Bavarian cream that had a chocolate-dipped grissino one could use as a spoon, a delicate cream, ad a pudding that was pleasing though it did contain a little alcohol. All served with a Picolit-based dessert wine that went quite well with the chocolate; I wished I could have more of both.
In short, a very fine meal, and if you are in the region, especially with your significant other, Go. But do make reservations first; since they buy day-by-day, you will likely be able to ask for something special if you want. Or leave yourself in their very capable hands.
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Suggestions: Friuli
Finally, Amy is looking for restaurants in Gorizia, Udine, and Tolmezzo. Here are a few ideas from Gambero Rosso's guide:
Gorizia
Ai Coltivatori
Frazione Lucinico Via G. Cesare 3, tel 0481 391430; open evenings. They say it's "interesting"and quite refined, with many traditional dishes you simply won't find elsewhere.
Nanut
Via Trieste 118, tel 0481 21168; closed weekends. Home cooking, and substantial.
Tolmezzo
Roma
Piazza XX Settembre, 14, tel 0433 2081; closed Sunday nights and Mondays. "A dinner with Gianni Cosetti is always an unforgettable experience."
Udine
Agli Amici
Loc. Godia, Via Liguria 250, tel 0432 565 411; closed Mondays. One of Udine's finest restaurants.
Al Lepre
Via Poscolle 27, tel 0432 295 798; closed Tuesdays. They sell wines, stand-up risotto at 7 PM, and sit-down meals too.
Al Passeggio
Viale Volontari della Libertà 49, tel 0432 46216; closed Saturdays at lunch and Sundays. Simple, direct, and moderately priced.
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Suggestions: Venezia
Moving on to other things, I just picked up to Gambero Rosso's restaurant guide, and was browsing the section dedicated to Venice, which comes with three maps to help diners find their way. One of the nice at-a-glance features of the guide is a "valuometer", a speedometer-like dial that points either to the right for good quality/price ratio, or to the left for bad. Almost all the valuometers, including those of restaurants that get high point scores, point left -- if you eat out in Venice you're paying for atmosphere, and that doesn't come cheap. On the other hand, unless you're eating there every day it's worth it, I think.
This said, here are some restaurants that caught my eye:
Cipriani (83, 4* from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina's guide)
Isola della Giudecca 10, tel. 041 520 7744. Expect to spend more than 100,000 lire/person + wines to enjoy a superb view of the lagoon and excellent food.
Altalenella (no score)
Giudecca Calle delle Erbe, tel. 041 522 7780. A family-run trattoria with traditional fare (lots of fish), and a pretty garden with a wonderful view. Pric about 50,000 lire/person + wines
Al Covo (78, 2* from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina)
Castello Campiello di Pescaria, 3968, tel. 041 522 3812. First-class ingredients and wonderful service. 85,000 lire/person + wines
Da Fiore (82, 4* from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina)
San Polo calle del Scalater 2202/a, tel. 041 721 308. Superb ingredients, excellent service; reserve ahead. Cost 80,000 lire/person + wines.
Da Ignazio (2* from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina)
San Polo, Calle dei Saoneri 2749, tel. 523 4852. Lots of fish, superbly done. Cost 35-50,000 lire/person, + wines
Da Valentino (2* from the Accademia Italiana della Cucina)
Lido di Venezia (you have to take the ferry, which offers enchanting views), Via San Gallo 81, tel. 041 526 0128. Extremely traditional Venetian cuisine, with lots of grilling as well.
Ai Frati John Martin writes, "Our favorite restaurant in a 10-day stay in Venice this summer was Ai Frati on the island of Murano. We were steered there by one of the glass shops, and so our expectations were not too high, but the food was fabulous, prices low for Venice, and the atmosphere was what you'd want of a neighborhood bistro."
Harry's Bar, you wonder?
Gambero Rosso finds it considerably overpriced at 125,000 lire/person + wines, and says the food is no longer what it once was.
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Suggestions: Roma
Moving onto other things, if you're planning to visit Italy you'll obviously be eating out. A couple of issues ago (see the index listed below) I gave a list of Florentine restaurants, based in part on Civiltà del Bere's annual restaurant rundown. Oddly enough, Rome doesn't fare nearly as well as Florence in the evaluations of Italy's major wine magazine, and many of the restaurants suggested are hotel restaurants. This may simply be because most Roman trattorie (the ones with tables outside during the summer, where Romans themselves eat) are tremendously simple. So what I suggest is that you look for a place where locals are eating, and look like they're having a good time. If you want more direction, here are some restaurants from Panorama's restaurant guide -- things that caught my eye, though I haven't eaten in any:
Agata e Romeo (3*) Via Carlo Alberto 45, closed Sundays, tel 4466115 -- traditional Roman cuisine, expensive;
Alfredo A Via Gabi Via Gabi 38, closed Tuesdays and August, tel 77206792 -- traditional Roman, inexpensive;
La Carbonara Campo dei Fiori 23, closed Tuesdays and most of August, tel 6864783 -- Traditional Roman, inexpensive;
La Campana (3*+), Vicolo della Campana 18, closed Mondays and August, tel 6867820, traditional cuisine, inexpensive;
Checco er Carrettiere (3*+) Via Benedetta 10, closed Sundays and Mondays, tel 5817018 -- traditional, with dining in a garden, moderately expensive;
Paris (4*), Piazza San Callisto 7/a, closed Sunday evenings and Mondays, tel 5815378 -- moderately expensive.
Da Giggetto, a restaurant in the old Roman Ghetto"just above the Teatro di Marcelio, I think. Wonderful Roman specialties."(Recommended by Janet Fitch).
Asinocotto, in Rome's Trastevere. "In the "new discovery" restaurant class, I'd mention Asinocotto, in Rome's Trastevere. It's too new to be in most of the books, priced for the locals (it's in a gentrifying area) rather than for the tourist trade, and the chef has some international experience that shows up in the rather "nouvelle"menu and the beautiful presentations. They now take credit cards, and Guliano speaks English (when he's not in the kitchen). The menu is in any case translated, so there's no problem with that.
Ristorante Asinocotto di Giuliano Brenna
00153 Roma Tel. & Fax 589 89 85
Via dei Vascellari, 48 Closed Mondays
Recommended by John Martin
Pizzeria Grotto Azurro on via Ciccerone, across from the Hotel Isa and Hotel Cicerone in Rome. This small restaurant is run by 2 brothers and their families. The back dining room (the grotto) is mostly for tourists, lots of Japanese, but the front dining room serves mostly locals. We are treated like family, the staff, which speaks some English, brings us tasty tidbits to sample, and we have even started ordering off the menu. The food is as good as it gets, the menu is quite extensive and changes seasonally, the prices are moderate.
Recommended by DMarms.
For a different and wonderful dining experience, visit the Jewish ghetto behind the Synagogue and dine in one of the restaurants Sims Brannon suggests on his Roman Passover page.
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Suggestions: Caserta
Moving in another direction, several people have asked about restaurants of late, and I do have a couple of suggestions. If you're near Caserta, you should make a point of trying Carpe Diem, Via Masseria Corte 101, in Piana di Monte Verna; tel. 39-0823-861-371, fax 39-0823-616-914. Closed Sunday evenings and Mondays -- Faith Willinger speaks quite highly of it, and I thank Steve for forwarding me her review. What else to do in Caserta? Visit the Reggia, the Bourbon's summer palace, which is about as spectacular and opulent a place as you could hope to find. If you time things right you may even get to see the Star Wars people, because they're using the interiors for the Naboo Palace.
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Suggestions: Napoli
While we're on the subject of Naples, the city is justly renowned for its cuisine. Unfortunately I haven't been in a number of years, and therefore cannot recommend any restaurants directly. Here are a few from the Gambero Rosso and Panorama guides that caught my eye; If you have a suggestion to make please let me know and I will add it to the list.
La Bersagliera (3 temples and a star from Panorama) -- Founded in 1919 and a classic, located in a beautifully panoramic spot. Expensive too (70,000/person plus wines); Gambero gives it a good rating but says the service sometimes falters. Borgo Marinari, Tel 081 764 6016; closed Tuesdays and January
La Cantina di Triunfo (1 temple from Panorama) -- A trattoria, family run and homey, with Tina in the kitchen and her husband Carmine waiting. A wide selection of Neapolitan dishes difficult to find elsewhere. Inexpensive but no credit cards. Riviera di Chiaia 64, Tel 081 668 101, closed Sundays and August.
La Cantinella (3 temples from Panorama) -- Elegant restaurant with air conditioning and a nice view, the best in Naples according to Gambero. Via Cuma 42, Tel 081 764 8684, Expensive (85,000 plus wine) Closed Sunday and August.
La Chiaccherata (1 temple and a star from Panorama) -- a homey trattoria whose owners grow their own vegetables, located next to the Galleria Umberto. Open only for lunch; inexpensive (30,000). Porta Monte Serano 37, Tel 081 411 465.
Ciro a Santa Brigida (2 temples from Panorama) -- a classic Neapolitan restaurant with traditional specialties. Excellent local desserts too. Moderately expensive. Closed Sundays and in August. Via Santa Brigida 71/74, Tel 081 552 4072.
Mimì alla Ferrovia (3 temples and a star from Panorama) -- Splendid Neapolitan cuisine, some of the best in the city. The stuffed peppers are noted by both. Moderately expensive; Via Alfonso d'Aragona 21, Tel 081 553 8525.
Osteria della Mattonella -- A tiny trattoria high up in the city, with simple home cooking. Inexpensive (30,000), closed Sunday night and in August. Via Nicotera 13, Tel 081 416 541.
La Sacrestia (3 temples from Panorama) -- Beautiful terrace with a magnificent view of the bay, with fine food, especially fish. Closed Mondays, and Sundays too in summer. Expensive (80,000 + wine), Via Orazio 116, Tel 081 761 1051
Trianon -- Naples is famed for Pizza and Gambero says this is some of the best. Via Colletta 46, Closed Sunday at lunchtime. Inexpensive (20,000), Piazza Colletta 46, Tel 081 553 9426.
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Suggestions: Trapani
Speaking of travel, I recently got a request for recipes in or around Trapani in Sicily. Since I haven't been in close to 20 years I'm not in a position to be able to make direct suggestions. However, Gambero Rosso's Restaurant guide speaks favorably of:
Bettina, in Via San Cristoforo 7, tel (0923) 20050, closed Wednesdays in winter. Lots of fish, cus cus, some meats, and local wines, about 45,000 lire/person + wines.
Da Beppe, in Via Spalti 50, tel (0923) 28246, closed Mondays in winter. Again lots of fish, cus cus, timballo (also known as timpano), and more fish; about 50,000 lire/person + wines.
In nearby Marsala they suggest Delfino, Lungomare Mediterraneo 672, Tel (0923) 969 565, closed Tuesdays in winter. Again lots of fish and cus cus, and ravioli di ricotta for dessert; about 55,000 lire/person + wines.
On the Island of Favignana, out on the bay, they much like Egadi, Via C. Colombo 17; tel (0923) 921232. Again much fish, cus cus, and home made rosolio to finish things off. Cost about 55,000 + wines, and you should make reservations, as well as bring cash. No credit cards.
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Restaurants in & around Florence
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