1997 Features

12/27/97 - Due Maremmani
Maremma is a wild part of Tuscany whose inhabitants were forced to turn frugality into an art. They may not have had much, but they knew how to cook it well. Recipes for Acquacotta, a vegetable soup, and Scottiglia, a meat stew.

12/19/97 - L'Arrosto Morto
An elegant meat roast is one of the standard North-Italian Christmas dishes -- these pot roasts, on the other hand, are perfect any time.

12/13/97 - Tomato Surprises
These really aren't surprises -- a good tomato sauce is one of the cornerstones of Italian cuisine. You'll also find a quick one, and Pappa al Pomodoro, the perfect summer use for day-old bread.

12/03/97 - Siena's Panforte: A Christmas Delight
A heavenly confection born of a boy's visit to the Baby Jesus. Also, the wines of Tenuta di Valgiano.

11/22/97 - Sugo Alla Bolognese
The ultimate meat sauce, and other Wintry Wonders.

11/17/97 - Biscotti
Twice-cooked, they are.

11/08/97 - Baccalà
Unexpected delight from Salt Cod -- how to select and prepare it.

10/31/97 - Le Bruciate
Roasted Chestnuts: a rare treat, and versatile too.

10/27/97 - Minestre Invernali
Hearty soups to keep you warm in the dead of winter.

10/16/97 - Vermentino dei Colli di Luni
An exciting Tosco-Ligurian white wine, and recipes to serve with it.

10/08/97 - On Pasta
It's easy to cook but there are some basic rules. Also, recipes for Pesto and Penne Rose, and Poggerino's Chianti Classico.

09/30/97 - Seppie
There's lots to be done with cuttlefish!

09/24/97 - San Gaetano
One of Florence's few Baroque churches, a beautiful oasis where few tourists go.

09/23/97 - The Marvelous Mushroom
Porcini are one of God's great gifts to Humanity, a mushroom delicate enough to flavor a sauce, yet vigorous enough to stand up to a grilled steak with Barolo.

09/17/97 - Making Risotto
Making risotto is a bit like learning to ride a bicycle: Takes a bit of practice at first, and concentration thereafter. Also, recipes for Risotto agli Asparagi and Risotto coi Gamberetti (shrimp).

09/11/97 - The Organization of an Italian Meal
Meals served in Italian homes and restaurants in Italy differ considerably from those served in most restaurants abroad. Thoughts on an Italian meal at home.

08/21/97 - Tuscan Merlot
Merlot is rapidly gaining in popularity in Tuscany, and while I don't approve of its inclusion in traditional wines, it can be spectacular. Notes on 6 Merlot-based wines, including Fonterutoli's Le Siepi and Frescobaldi's Lamaione.

Also, a recipe for Schiacciata Con L'Uva, a sinfully tasty pastry made with wine grapes.

08/14/97 - Rimini

A detour to a town that began life as an Etruscan settlement, and is now a mecca for fun-lovers of all kinds. But that's not all: There are some spectacular artworks to see!

08/13/97 - Ca'Lojera
A small winery overlooking Lake Garda, with some very interesting white wines.

The've got a recipe coming.

07/29/97 - Le Clos Baudoin
A detour to the Loire Valley, and the Vouvray produced by Prince Poniatowsky. Keep an eye out for it!

A delightful fish recipe is on the way.

07/03/97 - Botromagno
An extremely interesting and as of yet relatively unknown winery in Puglia.
Also, a recipe for Orecchiette coi Broccoletti, a Puglian specialty.

05/29/97 - Il Museo Dell'Annunziata di La Morra
Renato Ratti began assembling this collection in the 60s, and Massimo Martinelli is still adding to it. It's fascinating, and if you visit the Terre del Barolo you should definitely go.

05/24/97 - Tipicitá
There are two major currents in Italian wine making today -- Innovators and Traditionalists. While the innovators make wonderful wine, I tend to side with the traditionalists. Here's why.

Also, tasting notes on a couple of wines from Castello di Brolio.

05/15/97 - A Barbaresco Dinner
29 different Barbareschi from 1994 -- some very fine wines.

Also, a recipe for Brasato al Barolo

05/10/97 - Growing Pains: San Piero in Lamosa over the Centuries
San Piero in Lamosa is a monastery near Lake Iseo, not far from Brescia (east of Milano, in Lombardia). Very pretty, and well worth a visit.

05/02/97 - Bellavista:
Franciacorta brings to mind Maurizio Zanella, and rightly so. However, he's certainly not alone.

05/01/97 - Dagli Etruschi a Sodoma
A day in the Sienese countryside, on the path of the Etruscans and one of the Masters of the Renaissance.

04/28/97 - Verona, The Florence of the North?
Many people say Verona is the Florence of the north... Is it? Also, Pastissada de Ceval, a delicious Veronese stew.

04/12/97 - Valpolicella:
Though it doesn't get the respect of Tuscan or Piemontese wines, this wine from the Veneto can be spectacular.

03/27/97 - Lambrusco:
Spring is upon us -- what could possibly go better with a picnic?

03/20/97 - Il Vino Nobile:
Montepulciano has some extraordinary wines...
And it's beautiful, too.

03/14/97 - DOC, VdT, DOCG... What does it mean?
Reading an Italian wine label.

03/07/97 - San Galgano
San Galgano the saint renounced wealth and power. The abbey named after him now has one of Italy's most beautiful lawns -- in the nave.

03/05/97 - Croce e Delizia:
The Chianti Classico region produces some of the greatest wines in the world, but also vast quantities of plonk. How this situation developed.

02/27/97 - Isole e Olena's Paolo De Marchi:
Paolo De Marchi has won the James Beard Award and a host of other prizes; his wines consistently garner top honors. It's worth undertaking a journey to meet him.

02/16/97 -Tasting in Piemonte:
Just got back from a wine-tasting trip to Piemonte; some thoughts about this kind of trip, and a few words on vintages.

01/31/97 - Sergio Manetti and Montevertine:
Sergio Manetti is one of the most highly respected Italian vintners. Though he withdrew from the Consorzio del Chianti Classico many years ago, his wines are among the best produced in the region, and never fail to dazzle.

01/23/97 - Le Murge
A number of years ago, my fiancee and I went to Puglia for a vacation. It's a beautiful area, and virtually unknown to those living in the rest of Italy.

01/14/97 - Le Cinque Terre:
Le Cinque Terre are both a region in Liguria and the wine that comes from it: A monument (successful, I might add) to people's determination to eke something from the soil.

Also, a recipe for Buridda, a Ligurian fish stew.

01/07/97 - Aglianico del Vulture:
Some people call Aglianico del Vulture the Barolo of the South. Actually, it's much older.