Reading between the lines, we can see that broccoli's position as a staple food of the poor was already well established by Roman times.
And there it remained for centuries; its status began to change in the mid-1970s, when authors of De Agostini's La Mia Cucina wrote that its popularity in North America had led the Italian food industry to introduce frozen broccoli florets in Italy. "It's a rustic food," they say, "but flavorful and tasty; it's traditionally cooked with fats, salted anchovies, and garlic."
This is the sort of introduction one gives when presenting something that's virtually unknown, and indeed their audience -- the middle class -- probably wasn't that familiar with the foods of the Southern poor. This sort of introduction wouldn't be necessary today; broccoli has been thoroughly reassessed and if you visit an Italian market in the winter you will find bins full of fresh broccoli with people eagerly selecting florets.
And well they should; broccoli is quite healthy. It's an excellent source of vitamin C, several vitamins of the B group, calcium and iron, and is both high in fiber and low in calories (27 per quarter pound, 100 g). More recent studies also show that broccoli contains compounds that help purify the blood, and thus protect against at variety of maladies including heart disease and cancer.
It definitely has a place on the winter table.
Purchasing Broccoli: Figure about a half-pound (220 g) per person. The florets should be a deep blue green, and the stems should look firm and full, and be crisp. If the florets are discolored, or, worse yet, yellowing or limp, or if the stems look wrinkled, select something else. Don't forget to sniff it either; like most cabbages broccoli has a slight sulfurous aroma (which leaves the food as it cooks), but if it smells sharp it will also taste sharp and unpleasant.
Broccoli will keep for a day or two as is in the crisper section of your refrigerator. If you need to keep it longer (keep in mind that nutritious quality decreases with time), Bert Green says to break the stem off part-way up the stalk and insert it in a wide-mouth jar filled with ice water. Cover the head with plastic, put the jar in the fridge, and the broccoli should keep for a week if you change the water daily.
Enough Talk! A Few Broccoli Recipes
- Orecchiette coi Broccoletti
This pasta sauce is a traditional, and very tasty Puglian way of dealing with broccoli. - Paste Con Salsicce e Broccoli
Pasta with broccoli (or broccoli raab) is generally vegetarian, or close to it -- peasant food of the highest order, enjoyed by those who couldn't afford meat. Broccoli go well with sausages, however, and this is a little richer. - Broccoletti al Pomodoro
I tend to prefer broccoli cooked simply, with little that will distract from their refreshing greenness. However, tomatoes add a nice touch. This simple recipe is Sicilian. - Broccoletti alla Siciliana
This very traditional Sicilian dish can be either a side dish or a pasta sauce. In the past, when the poor could grow their broccoli, but had to buy the pasta, the greens predominated over the pasta when the recipe was used as a sauce. It's also a nice accompaniment to a roast or stew. - Broccoletti con Pan Grattato e Acciughe
The combination of bread crumbs and anchovies is very common in southern Italy, and nicely complements broccoli. - Broccoletti Gratinati
A classic winter casserole that you'll find in every cuisine. The Italian touch is in the cheese, a mixture of Fontina (or mozzarella) and Parmigiano.
