At this year's Benvenuto Brunello, held February 2007, we sampled two vintages of Brunello: The 2001 Riserva, many of which I greatly enjoyed, and the 2002 Brunello Normale, which was an extremely difficult vintage that offered little to smile about. As you might expect, the wines that impressed me most were 2001s; these are wines for special occasions -- in the future. Though they are drinkable now, they will really begin to shine in 8-10 years, adding a special magic to the setting.
1. Valdicava Madonna Del Piano Brunello Riserva 2001
Impenetrable pyrope ruby. Rich, elegant, vinous bouquet, with powerful red berry fruit supported by deft acidity, and clean alcohol. Welcoming, and very fresh. On the palate it's full and quite smooth, with powerful red berry fruit that gains direction from deft acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that have a silky feel to them and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish with some cedar overtones. An elegant food wine that will drink very well with roasted red meats of a certain import. A crown roast, for example. Expect it to age well for a decade or more.Score: 90
2. Col D'Orcia Poggio al Vento Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections. Powerful, penetrating bouquet, with dusky bitter underbrush mingled with some balsam and Moroccan leather, quite a bit of alcohol, and with time dried flowers. On the palate it's rich, and full, with powerful sour cherry fruit supported by deft red currant acidity and ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean sour fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Elegant in a decidedly traditional key, and will drink nicely with succulent red meats now, though it will reward those blessed with patience. Expect it to age well for at least 15 years.Score: 90
3. Canneta Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Looks mature. Clean bouquet, with balsamic warmth and some old asphalt mingled with berry fruit that has dry floral accents and some underbrush as well. On the palate it's full, with delicate slightly sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins and deft almost brambly acidity that flow into a clean slightly tart berry fruit finish. Elegant, and displays considerable balance in a very traditional style that privileges fairly tart fruit and finesse over ripeness and concentration.Score: 88-90
4. Casanova di Neri Cerretalto Brunello Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby. Powerful bouquet, with cedar and sweet spice nicely balancing powerful berry fruit. On the palate it's full, a broodingly elegant presence with powerful very ripe berry fruit that has some plum overtones supported by smooth sweet tannins that still display some cedary warmth, but are headed towards velvety smoothness. It's very young, quite international, and will age for at least 15 years, assuming you have the patience.Score: 88-90
Well worth seeking out if you like the style, But: Is it Brunello? A longer comment I wrote for the Italian Wine Review.
5. Collosorbo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with black reflection. Looks mature. Rich bouquet, with slightly balsamic sour cherry fruit supported by deft acidity and green leather, and underlying hints of leaf tobacco and warm spice. Very nice balance in a traditional key. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from slightly greenish acidity, supported by clean sweet slightly greenish tannins that have a peppery overlay and flow into a long clean berry fruit finish with a cedary tannic underpinning. It's quite young, and is still coming together. A wine to wait for.Score: 88-90
6. Fornacina Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. Fairly rich bouquet, with marzipan-laced red berry fruit supported by some balsamic notes, and clean spicy accents, in particular hints of sage. Inviting. On the palate it's full and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean bracing tart cherry red currant acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly savory finish. It's very young, and the tannins will benefit from a year, though one could already drink it with a steak or hearty stewScore: 88
7. La Fortuna Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Black almandine ruby with black reflections. Bright bouquet, with sour berry fruit, a mix of cherry and raspberry, supported by some herbal notes, menthol, and clean alcohol and spice. On the palate it's bright, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk raspberry acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and sweet, with a core of steely velvet that is beginning to emerge, and lead into a clean slightly sour berry fruit finish. It's quite young, but promises very well; it will drink nicely now with succulent roasts or stews, and will do very interesting things with time.Score: 88
8. Tornesi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Bright bouquet, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity and by deft spice. On the palate it's equally pleasant, with lively cherry fruit that gains direction from brisk cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth youthful tannins that flow into a clean deft berry fruit finish. Quite nice, though young, and will drink very well with foods, though those with the patience to give it a few years will be richly rewarded. Drink it with grilled meats, roasts, or stews.Score: 88
9. La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Bright, slightly unusual bouquet with rich marzipan at first swish, which opens to reveal red berry fruit supported by pleasing herbal accents and deft spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's quite nice, with rich red berry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. The tannins are ample, moving like a wave, and quite smooth, though they also have a slight burr to them, and need another year ate least to settle into place, and will do very interesting things in the long term.Score: 87-8
10. Pacenti Franco Canalicchio Bruello di Montalcino Riserva 2001
Deep black almandine with brownish reflections. Delicate bouquet, with cherry fruit supported by saddle leather and dried flowers; it's more mature than some, but also quite graceful, almost willowy. On the palate it's full, with deft slightly leathery cherry fruit supported by ample sweet smooth tannins that flow into a clean slightly tannic finish with fruit underpinning. It's just a touch dry in the finish, though this is at a tasting, where there's no food to accompany the wine; if it were with a succulent roast or a hearty stew one wouldn't notice this at all.Score: 87-8
