Nobile di Montpulciano, one of Tuscany's great Reds, is coming off two very difficult vintages -- 2002 and 2003 -- so I was quite curious to see what the 2004 (presented this spring) would be like. The vintage, like the 2004 Chianti Classico vintage, was much better balanced, and there are definitely some wines to look out for.
Some are bottled, and I scored them. Others are barrel samples, and since they're not ready yet - a lot happens after the wine goes into the bottle - I merely single them out. They'll be worth waiting for.
Some are bottled, and I scored them. Others are barrel samples, and since they're not ready yet - a lot happens after the wine goes into the bottle - I merely single them out. They'll be worth waiting for.
1. Boscarelli Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Muted bouquet, though swishing brings up delicate cherry and berry fruit supported by some red currant acidity and alcoholic warmth. Quite a bit going on, and promising. On the palate it's medium bodied and graceful, with rich cherry fruit that has some black currant overtones, with slightly brambly acidity that provides direction, and smooth sweet tannins that have a slightly greenish youthful Sangiovese burr, and flow into a clean cedar-laced slightly savory finish. It's a toddler stumbling about, but as it grows into adulthood it will do very nice things.Score: 88
2. Lodola Nuova Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine with black reflections. Bright bouquet, with warm sour cherry and forest berry fruit laced with slight herbal notes and some wet green leather that confers a slightly rustic touch to a polished whole, and thus adds depth. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright sour cherry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean warm sour cherry fruit finish that's fairly long. Refreshing, and will drink very well with foods, especially grilled meats and roasts, including fattier things such as leg of lamb or grilled lamb chops.Score: 86-8
3. Casa Vinicola Triacca Santavenere Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Bright bouquet, with pleasant cherry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity and spice. On the palate it's medium bodied and quite elegant, with fairly rich slightly sour cherry fruit supported by clean savory tannins that have a warm cedary burr, and flow into a rather cedary finish. It's nice, in a middle of the road key, but needs another year to come together and balance out. Give it time, and it will drink well with light stews, roasts, and grilled meats, and has the capacity to age well for a decade or more.Score: 85-7
4. Lunadoro Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep garnet ruby with black reflections. Fairly intense bouquet, with cherry and blackberry fruit supported by cedar and some warmth, hints of nutmeg as well, and underlying greenish spicy notes. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright cherry fruit supported by sour cherry acidity, and by tannins that are fairly light and have a splintery youthful burr; as they settle with time I expect the wine will become fairly graceful, in a lighter key than many. Bottom line: Refreshing, and will drink very well with grilled meats or light roasts, though it needs another year to come together.Score: 86
5. La Ciarliana Vigna Scianello Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Fairly rich bouquet, with cedar-laced plum berry fruit supported by some spice and moderate acidity. Nice balance. On the palate it's full, smooth, and quite soft, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from clean acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean plum finish. Elegant, in a ripe fruit driven key, and if you like this style it is worth seeking out. Drink it with drier meats, both red and white.Score: 86
6. Dei Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sampleImpenetrable poured purple ink. Bouquet powerful for a barrel sample, and very ripe, with plum berry fruit mingled with some spice. On the palate it's full and quite soft, with ample plum fruit that gains direction from sufficient acidity, while the tannic support is from large, fairly tightly woven tannins that have a warm cedary burr from oak, and flow into a warm tannic finish. It's a wine in the making, but will be elegant in a smooth, rich, very ripe international style. Something to keep an eye out for if you like this style, and will drink with drier meats upon release, or perhaps by the glass.
7. Fassati Passiteo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sampleImpenetrable pyrope ink. If it came out of the ground you'd think it was crude oil. The bouquet is shut tight, which is to be expected in a barrel sample. The palate is full and quite soft, with ample cherry plum fruit that gains direction from some citric acidity, and is supported by ample very smooth cedar-laced tannins that flow into a long warm finish. It will be very approachable in a smooth international style, and work well with drier meats at release, or by the glass far from the table after a year. Worth seeking out if you like this style.
8. Godiolo Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sampleDeep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich for a barrel sample, with bright cherry fruit supported by lemony acidity and some spice. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit that gains pleasant direction from citric acidity, and is supported by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr, and flow into a savory cedar finish. It's quite promising, and if it follows on this path will grow up to be graceful, aging well too. I'd keep an eye out for it.
9. Tenuta Valdipiatta Nobile di Montepulciano 2004 DOCG
Barrel sampleDeep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is shut tight at first swish, though further swishing does bring up some bitter graphite. Par for a barrel sample. On the palate it's full, with fairly bright cherry fruit that has some strawberry overtones and hints of berry fruit jam, and is supported by a combination of sour cherry acidity and clean sweet tannins that display some cedar now, but will smooth nicely with time. It's quite promising, and will drink well with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven. Something to keep an eye out for.

