This spring I was invited to Alba Wines, the annual vintage presentation of Southern Piemonte's great Nebbiolo-based red wines, Barolo, Barbaresco, and Roero. Barolo was frankly difficult -- the 2003 vintage was not good -- but 2004 is a different story, and there are some very fine wines from Roero and Barbaresco coming out. Here is what impressed me the most, the Roero first and then the Barbaresco.
Vietti Masseria Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Fairly rich bouquet, with greenish spice and vegetal notes mingled with berry fruit and some sea salt. On the palate it's fairly full, with bright berry fruit supported by clean sour cherry spice, and by tannins that have clean slightly brambly notes and flow into a clean sour berry fruit finish. It's quick to write, but pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats now, and also age well. In short, something to drink now or set aside. All the more impressive because it was the last wine of the day, when one wants to stop.Score: 87-9
Abrigo Orlando Vigna Montersino Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep garnet with black reflections. Fairly rich bouquet, with sour berry fruit supported by greenish accents, spice, and some cedar. On the palate it's full, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean slightly citric acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that flow into a clean smooth finish. Elegant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats -- a porterhouse cut comes to mind, even if it's not Piemontese -- though I might be tempted to set it aside for a few years. Expect it to do very nice things.Score: 88
Pertinace Vigneto Nervo Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is a bit wild, with barnyard tang mingled with savory accents, deft acidity, and greenish overtones; if you like this style it is pleasant, but if you prefer more fruit driven wines it won't work for you. On the palate it's full, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour plum acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly greenish sour finish. Very traditional, and will drink well with succulent red meats or light stews I would give it a couple of years to get its bearings, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.Score: 87
Cascina Bruciata Barbaresco DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Fairly rich bouquet, with smoky red berry fruit supported by greenish spice and warmth. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich red berry fruit that has slight sweet overtones, and gains direction from warm acidity, while the tannic structure is ample and has distinct bitter overtones that flow into a clean slightly bitter tannic finish. Pleasant, though very young, and it still has some baby fat to it; the sweetness is a bit unusual, but works quite well, and if you like the style you will enjoy it.Score: 86-7
