This year's Barbera Meeting, organized and held in Asti this summer, primarily featured wines from the 2005 and 2003 vintages, both of which are quite good. The 2003 in particular, because Barbera vines do well in hot vintages, and 2003 was the hottest in decades. Here are the wines that impressed me the most.
1. Villa Giada Bricco Dani Barbera d'Asti Superiore Nizza 2004
Poured pyrope ink. Intense bouquet, with moderate prune cherry fruit and considerable cedary spice. On the palate it's full, and powerful, with oddly languid fruit that has unusual yellow peach accents -- likely a result of wood-fruit interaction -- supported by some greenish notes, and by smooth sweet tannins that owe much of their substance to oak. Quite nice in an international key, and it does a fine job of balancing intense wood and fruit. Because of its smoothness I would drink it with drier roasts, along the lines of roast beef cooked medium. Worth seeking out.Score: 88-90
2. Cantine Sant'Agata Cavale Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep cherry ruby. Fairly green bouquet, with a warm underlay of cedar, alcohol, and some red berry fruit. On the palate it's full, and much brighter than I expected, with lively sour raspberry-cherry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that lay an angry burr over the tongue that flows into a clean spicy finish with berry fruit overtones. In a word, zesty, and it will drink well with succulent roasts or hearty stews. If you like studied smooth wines it won't work for you, but if you prefer the more aggressive traditional Barbera the bottle will go quickly.Score: 87-8
3. La Ghersa Camparò Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Deep black cherry ruby. Intense nose, with slightly sour cherry fruit laced with underbrush and some spicy green leather, which is a little unusual in a wine this young, but adds a nice touch. Refreshing. On the palate it's full, with ample red berry fruit, a mixture of red currants and sour cherries with some strawberry overtones, supported by lively acidity and by clean sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh acidic finish. It has a pleasingly cheeky brashness to it, and will drink quite well with grilled meats or light stews.Score: 87
4. Guasti Clemente Boschetto Vecchio Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby. Fairly rich bouquet, and surprisingly young, with floral accents mingled with berry fruit jam and deft greenish spice; it's pleasant and invites a second sniff. On the palate it's ample and soft, with full jammy prune berry fruit that gains direction from moderately intense warm mineral acidity, while the tannic structure is smooth and fairly sweet; it all flows into a clean fairly sweet fruit laced finish that gains depth from cedar-laced tannins. Pleasant, in a luscious hot vintage key. It will drink well with slightly drier roasts, perhaps served with gravies or sauces.Score: 87
5. Cantina Viticoltori del Monferrato Rossore Barbera Del Monferrato Superiore 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish, frankly vegetal -- in the direction of stewed peppers -- red berry fruit supported by a pleasing combination of peppery spice and balsamic acidity with some leaf tobacco that provides depth. Quite a bit going on. On the palate it's full, and smooth, with powerful slightly mentholated greenish red berry fruit supported by brisk acidity, and by tannins that have a warm cedar-laced burr. The wine has a muscular cheeky brashness to it that I found enjoyable.Score: 87
6. Icardi Nuj Suj Barbera d'Asti 2003
Deep pigeon blood ruby. Fairly rich bouquet, with a nice balance of very ripe, slightly vegetal berry fruit and greenish cedar. On the palate it's full, with lively red berry fruit that gains direction from deft acidity, and is supported by clean sweet tannins that lead into a clean savory fruit-laced finish with lively acidity. The heat of the summer is evident in the character of the fruit, but there is sufficient acidity to keep the wine on its toes. In short, a nice expression of the vintage, and if you like this lively rather scrappy style the bottle will go very fast.Score: 87
7. Tenuta Garetto Tra Neuit e Di Barbera D'Asti 2005
Deep ruby. The bouquet is bright and brambly with floral notes -- irises and roses -- mingled with cherry blossoms and bright tart berry fruit. Nice, and quite refreshing. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by brisk sour cherry acidity and by smooth slightly brambly tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Classic traditional Barbera, a wine that greets you with a smile and invites you to enjoy it. What with? Hearty meat based pasta dishes will work, but it's better sited to grilled meats and the other delights of a cookout. You will want a second bottle.Score: 87
8. Cantina Sociale Barbera Sei Castelli Le Vignole Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Deep ruby. Fresh bouquet, with ripe red berry fruit supported by some spice, and by warm cedar with a fair amount of underlying alcohol and some balsamic overtones. On the palate it's full, with ample cherry prune fruit that's quite smooth, but gains direction from pleasant mineral acidity, and is supported by ample sweet tannins that work from below the surface, leading into a clean prune fruit finish that gains depth from spicy balsamic overtones and warmth. Pleasant, in an overripe key that reflects the vintage.Score: 86-7
9. Tenute dei Vallarino La Ladra Barbera d'Asti Superiore 2004
Poured ruby ink. Delicate bouquet, with moderate berry fruit overshadowed by cedar and warm spice. On the palate it's full, and elegant, with lively red berry fruit that gains direction from deft red currant acidity, and is supported by ample smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long bright finish with bitter undertones. Pleasant, in a saucy key, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats -- lamb chops or a filet sound about right -- or light stews, and because of its brightness it will be a good bet with fried meats too. Expect the bottle to go quickly.Score: 85-7
10. Tenuta La Tenaglia Tenaglia Ė… Barbera D'Asti Superiore 2003
Poured ruby ink. Powerful, oaky bouquet, with cedar aromas and bitterness flowing out of the glass, and some underlying jammy berry fruit. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with moderately intense cherry prune fruit that gains direction from slight acidity, and is supported by massive tannins that guide from below the surface, leading into a clean prune and jammy berry fruit finish. If you like this big soft style you will like it; the tannins have just enough bite for it to work well with succulent, not too fatty red meats, or roasted white meats with flavorful sauces.Score: 86
