Antipasti vary as much as any other facet of Italian cooking -- from the delicate flans, chicken in carpione (a pickled sauce), rabbit salad, minced raw beef and dozens of other things sufficient to make a meal by themselves in Piemonte, to hardly any antipasti at all in Naples, until quite recently (according to Jeanne Francesconi, author of La Cucina Napoletana). Tuscany falls somewhere in the middle; no festive meal is complete without a selection of crostini.
What are crostini?
Thin slices of lightly toasted bread, with a variety of toppings, generally patés moist enough to be easily spreadable. Though one sometimes encounters crostini made with slices of pane casalingo, Tuscan unsalted bread (see The Artisan for a discussion of bread types and recipes), Artusi suggests one use fine grained bread baked in a bread tin (because of its regular shape), and more elegant Tuscan bakeries have special crostino loaves with the profiles of the suits of a deck of cards. In their absence, a long thin loaf such as a baguette will work well (slice it on a diagonal, into half-inch slices). The topping should be spread about a quarter-inch thick.
In addition to bread, you can also use polenta squares, cut to the same size and fried for a few minutes, or until crisp and golden, in hot oil. They're especially good with mushroom sauce, but are also quite nice with the most traditional crostino spread, which is made with chicken livers and sage.
Unlike some dishes, which are only served in certain seasons, crostini are good year round. You may wish to make just one kind, or several so your guests can choose what they prefer. What to serve with them? Either a robust white, for example Vernaccia di San Gimignano, or a zesty red wine -- a Chianti Classico d'annata would be perfect. And a platter of cold cuts, including prosciutto, salame, capocollo, and perhaps finocchiona.
Some Crostini Recipes
- Chicken Liver Crostini
Even those convinced they don't like liver love these. - Spleen Crostini
Very traditional Tuscan, and tasty too. - Caper Crostini
Quick, easy, and zesty -- ideal before the meal, or to perk flagging appetites during. - Woodcock Crostini
A historical curiosity given the rarity of woodcock, but tasty nonetheless. - A Crostini Collection
3 easy fish crostini, and one with the "poor man's caviar" -- black olives. - Crostini Alla Senese
Rich, zesty crostini made with chicken livers and spleen, seasoned with lemon. - Spuma di Prosciutto
A light paté made with ham that's perfect on toasted bread. - Agliata
A rich spread made with garlic and cured lard (don't blanch) that's excellent on toasted bread. - Cavolo a Fette
Black leaf kale on toasted bread with good oil sounds simple but is fit for a king.
