I tasted the 2006 Barolo in the spring and fall this year. And have thought quite a bit about the vintage, coming to the conclusion that it is a good vintage, with spots of greatness, but is not a sure-fire vintage: You'll have to pick with care, selecting wines that match the style you like, because -- with a few exceptions -- it isn't one of those vintages in which wines of styles you generally don't care for will offer you opportunities for discovery and delight.
Here are the 2006 Barolos (and a few others) that impressed me the most.
Conterno Giacomo Monfortino Barolo Riserva 2002
To begin, presenting a 2002 Barolo Riserva is an act of courage, because it was one of the most difficult vintages in recent (or even long-term) memory. To present it after 8 years is even more courageous. Having said this, the wine is lively almandine with black reflections, and though there is some almandine in the rim one wouldn't guess its age. The bouquet is deft, with berry fruit supported by dusky acidity and some leaf tobacco; it's beginning to enter into maturity, but is still quite vital., and displays considerable depth. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and smooth sweet tannins that have a warm savory burr and flow into a clean bright sour cherry finish that's quite long. Quite elegant, and the courage is completely warranted; the wine displays great depth and elegance, in a frankly traditional key, revolving around bright red berry fruit acidity and fruit, and tannins that don't display much if any oak; even if you prefer smoother softer riper wines this is something to think about, because it can open doors onto new vistas of understanding. Especially considering the vintage. Beautiful.Score: 92-4
Commendator G. B. Burlotto Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich berry fruit supported by nutmeg laced spice from grape and delicate berry fruit; it's quite harmonious and very young; there are obviously many things yet to develop in the nose. It's not quite like looking at a half-finished canvas, but almost. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with deft tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, though again very young and now it's a toddler wandering the schoolyard. It needs at least a couple of years to get it bearings and decide where it will go. It will be worth waiting for too.Score: 90
Francesco Sobrero Barolo Ciabot Tanasio DOCG 2006
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with berry fruit supported by balsamic accents and some brambles, while there also hints of barnyard tang. Quite pleasant in a very traditional key, and has a lot to say. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm fairly tart berry fruit finish. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with grilled meats or hearty stews, and will also age well for many years. One of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting, and worth seeking out.Score: 90
Azienda Agricola G. D. Vajra GD Vajra Luigi Baudana Cerretta Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with elegant rosa canina mingled with some berry fruit and spice; it's quite young, but displays promise and with respect to many of the Serralunga wines displays more poise. On the palate it's full and rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by hints of leaf tobacco and clean bright mineral acidity, while the tannins are smooth and very deft, flowing into a clean bright finish. It's quick to write but quite graceful, with considerable underlying power, and very pleasant. It's also quite young, and will do extremely interesting things if you have the patience to give it time.Score: 88-90
Commendator G. B. Burlotto Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2006
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is intense,with ithsome rosa canina and deft berry fruit spice mingled with some greenish accents with hints of leaf tobacco and alcohol. Very young, and really not ready yet. On the palate it's full and quite smooth with soft fresh berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly tart finish. It's quite elegant, and very young, and I would give it time. A number of years, before it will be ready to think about being drunk.Score: 88-90
Aurelio Settimo Barolo DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Classic Nebbiolo. The bouquet is old style, with dusty balsamic notes mingled with wet leather and a hint of tart acidity, and also intriguing savory accents that bring Sichuan preserved vegetable (which I like very much) to mind. Quite a bit to think about, and harmonious. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins with a cool savory underpinning that lead into a slightly salty sour cherry finish that lasts and lasts. Quite pleasant in a traditional key, and will also age very well. A wine worth seeking out if you like the style, and even if you are more of a modernist by inclination you will find things to enjoy.Score: 88-90
Cascina del Monastero Barolo DOCG 2006
Pale almandine with brownish black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is deft, with fairly bright balsamic sour berry fruit supported by some saddle leather and hints of underbrush, while there are also hints of rosa canina. Just hints, but emerging. On the palate it's bright, with likely sour cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that have a leathery richness to them and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and if you like the style, which revolves more around acidity and finesse than power, you will enjoy it very much. If you are instead of a more modern, smoother bent you will like it less.Score: 88-90
Gianni Voerzio La Serra Barolo DOCG 2006
Inky pyrope with cherry ruby rim. Much darker than all the others, and brings to mind the wines of the modernist school at the height of the movement, in about 2001. One wouldn't guess form the color that it is Nebbiolo. The bouquet is powerful, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by greenish accents and sour cherry acidity with some graphite shavings as well; nice balance and quite charged in a very young key. On the palate it's ample and quite smooth, with rich sour cherry fruit supported by greenish sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth tannins that though sweet do have a dusky bitter undercurrent, and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish with deft slightly bitter tannic support. Quite pleasant in a rich vibrant key but atypical for Barolo; it is a fine wine that will drink very well with grilled meats or steaks from today, and also age well, but if you are looking for classic Nebbiolo this isn't it, In short, it's very good, and you will like it regardless of your stylistic preference (modern-traditional) because it has much to offer, but it is following its own path.Score: 88-90
Gigi Rosso Arione dell'Ulivo Barolo Riserva DOCG 2004
Almandine with black reflections and orange rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some rosa canina and spice mingled with leaf tobacco and spice; it's a child but going in an interesting direction. On the palate it's ample, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively savory berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean finish. Quick to write, but there0's great depth and it is at the beginning of a long, long climb. Something to seek out if you're traditionally minded, and even if you prefer the more modern fruit driven style you will find things to think about. It may even convert you. You could drink it now, but it will reward those with the patience to give it several more years.Score: 88-90
Simone Scaletta Chirlet Barolo DOCG 2006
Lively almandine with brownish black reflections and pale orange-white rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, with greenish slightly jammy berry fruit (it brings cugnà to mind) mingled with slight balsamic accents and sea salt, and also some spice. In mid stride, but promising in a fairly traditional key. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by delicate berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long sour cherry finish. It's not powerful, but does display pleasing harmony with considerable finesse, and will I think age nicely, becoming lacy and graceful with time. Great potential.Score: 88-90
