In addition to writing about food, I write about wine, and attended this year's Chianti Classico vintage presentation. A fascinating event, with a great many wines, more than 300 in all, and many were quite good. Here is a selection of Chianti Classico Riserva, more substantial wines well suited to hearty roasts and stews, and that will also age nicely, for up to 5-10 years.
Monteraponi Il Campitello Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Kyle Phillips
Lively almandine ruby with some hints of orange in the rim. Rich bouquet with lively sour berry fruit supported by deft slightly brambly acidity and by clean spice from grapes. Invigorating. On the palate it's fresh, with bright slightly sour cherry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that are still quite young, displaying a slightly greenish youthful burr, and flow into a clean fresh sour berry fruit finish. Quite nice, in a zesty traditional key, and if you like the style it will work very well with succulent grilled meats or hearts stews and roasts in the short term, and also age nicely over the next 5-8 years at least. Worth seeking out even if you prefer the smoother, softer international style.
Score:90-91
Score:90-91
Castello di Monsanto Il Poggio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively black cherry ruby with hints of orange in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with tart red berry fruit supported by some cedar and pleasant spice; the overall impression is graceful in a zesty tomboyish key. On the palate it's medium bodied, with rich cherry and red berry fruit that gains direction from brisk, but not invasive, acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant; it's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting, and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats or roasts.Score: 90-91
Castello di Cacchiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry impenetrable. The bouquet is lively, with brambly berry fruit supported by clean greenish spice and refreshing coolness. On the palate it's brisk, with lively slightly sour cherry fruit supported by sour berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly tart greenish finish that continues at length. Pleasant, in a rather graceful, willowy key, and will drink very nicely with foods, in particular red meats off the grill or light stews, and it also has the legs to age well for 5-8 years. Worth seeking out, especially if you prefer the more traditional style.Score: 90
Lamole di Lamole Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep ruby with some orange in the rim. The bouquet is vinous, with bright raspberry cherry fruit supported by clean spice and alcoholic warmth. Inviting, in a young, vigorous key. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by sour raspberry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh slightly greenish fruit laced finish. Pleasant, in a lively, zesty key, and though it's not a wine for lovers of studied smoothness of the well polished Merlot variety, it will work very well with foods, ranging from succulent grilled meats or roasts through platters of fried meats and vegetables. In other words, versatile, and if you like the style you will like it very much.Score: 88-90
Felsina Rancia Chianti Classico Riserva 2005
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a rather rustic key, with savory balsamic notes mingled with some wet stable straw spice. Pleasant, and considerable depth. On the palate it's rich, with deft red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by clean sweet tannins that have a slight burr, and flow into a clean fresh cherry finish with spicy tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant, and will drink very well with foods, in particular succulent grilled meats -- a porterhouse steak would be nice -- or hearty roasts, for example leg of lamb. It will also age nicely for 5-8 years, and perhaps more.Score: 88-90
San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly bright, in a slightly rustic key, with balsamic notes and animal accents - stable straw to be precise -- overlying brash acidity and hints of dried mushrooms. On the palate it's full, with rich cherry fruit supported by lively cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh cherry finish that gains direction from tart berry fruit acidity, and flow into a clean fairly tart finish. Pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent red meats or stews; it also has the capacity to age nicely for a number of years, and if I had the fortune to have a case I'd set some aside.Score: 88-90
Ormanni Borro del Diavolo Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Pale slightly almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is bright, with deft slightly vegetal berry fruit supported by airy spice and alcoholic warmth; there's nice depth and it's harmonious. On the palate it's rich, with lively red berry fruit supported by tannins that have a clean slightly splintery Sangiovese burr that flows into a deft cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Pleasant in a bracing traditional key, and still quite young; though one could drink it now with a steak or roasts and enjoy it much, it will reward those blessed with the patience to give it another 3-5 years. Worth seeking out if you are of traditional bent, and even if you prefer smoother softer more fruit driven wines you will enjoy it.Score: 88-90
Il Molino di Grace Il Margone Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Lively cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Bright greenish bouquet with cedar and vegetal accents overshadowing underbrush; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, and rather tart, with moderately intense sour berry fruit supported by clean rather bitter cedar laced tannins, which flow into a cedar-laced finish. It has a pleasing rather slender gracefulness to it, and though I wouldn't suggest it if you like smoother, softer fruit driven wines, if you like a degree of tartness it will drink quite well with succulent grilled meats or light stews, and also has the legs to age nicely for 5-8 years, becoming lacy with time. Very different from last year's wine.Score: 88-90
La Porta di Vertine Chianti Classico Riserva 2006
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with rich cherry fruit that gains direction from sour cherry acidity and depth from pleasant spice. Inviting. On the palate it's medium bodied, and quite deft, with rich sour cherry and raspberry fruit supported by clean deft berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long clean slightly bitter finish. Quite elegant, in a fairly traditional key, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or hearty stews in the short term, while it will also age nicely for 5-8 years or more. Worth seeking out if you like this fairly tart, traditional style.Score: 88-90
San Felice Poggio Rosso Chianti Classico Riserva 2004
Deep pigeon blood ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly intense, in a decidedly traditional key, with balsamic notes and polished leather mingled with savory sea salt; there's not much fruit, but it's pleasant and shows nice control. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by moderate almost lemony acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth, and flow into a clean tannic finish with sour underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly traditional key, and will drink well with stews or roasts; because of the dryness of the tannins I wouldn't drink it far from the table, at least not for a few years.Score: 88
