In addition to writing about food, I write about wine, and attended this year's Chianti Classico vintage presentation. A fascinating event, with some exciting new developments and a great many wines, more than 400 in all. Since this is much more than I can taste in 2 days I picked and chose, mostly vini d'annata (the current vintage), and a few Riserve. Here are the wines that impressed me the most, in no particular order.
Castello di Querceto Il Picchio Chianti Classico Riserva 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. Rich bouquet, with bright jammy red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and clean spice with some toasted cedar overtones; there's quite a bit going on. On the palate there's powerful cherry fruit that gains direction from deft citric acidity and is supported by ample tightly woven tannins that lead into a long fruit laced finish with pleasing acidity. Elegant, and will drink well with grilled meats or roasts, or with rich stews.90
Badia a Coltibuono Chianti Classico 2004
Deep ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly intense, with peppery spice balancing cherry and forest berry fruit; the effect is pleasing in a rather seductive and slightly luscious key. It's medium bodied and graceful with elegant red berry fruit that gains direction from some acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins and an underlying graphite bitterness. It will drink quite well with hearty soups or rich pasta dishes, and also with grilled meats or light stews.2 stars
Castello di Ama Vigneto Bellavista Chianti Classico 2001
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is surprisingly fresh, with a mixture of spice and blackcurrant fruit that is, well, luscious. It's full, rich, and smooth, with powerful cherry fruit that gains depth from some berry fruit jam, and direction from delicate acidity, while smooth sweet tannins provide support, and lead into a long forest berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, and very pleasant to sip. Will appeal to both modernists and traditionalists.2 stars
Cecchi Chianti Classico 2004
Fairly deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is decidedly traditional, with a mixture of herbal notes and cherry fruit supported by bramble, peppery spice, and sea salt. On the palate it's deft, in a fairly light key, with pleasingly graceful cherry fruit supported by some sour cherry acidity, and by brambly tannins that have slight greenish notes, and flow into a long clean cherry bramble finish. You'll likely want a second bottle.2 stars
Castello di Vicchiomaggio San Jacopo Chianti Classico 2004
Pale slightly almandine laced ruby with frankly almandine rim. The bouquet is delicate, with some flowers, brambles, and dry heather mingling with fairly tart cherries and raspberries. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright brambly cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry and raspberry acidity, and is supported by brambly tannins that flow into a clean brambly finish. It's extremely traditional, and graceful too, though you have to like the style. Give it a year.2 stars
Tenuta di Lilliano Chianti Classico 2004
Pale black almandine ruby with black reflections. Swishing brings up animal hair and saddle leather mingled with red berry fruit and hints of leafy underbrush. On the palate it's medium bodied, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by brambly citric acidity, and by fairly smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long slightly peppery finish, with sour berry fruit overtones. Traditional, in a scrappy tomboy key. Serve it with rich meat-based pasta sauces, or succulent grilled meats.2 stars
Vignamaggio Chianti Classico 2004
Barrel sample.Fairly deep ruby with cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with quite a bit of cherry fruit supported by elegant spice and a fair volume of pencil shavings. Promising, and quite good for a barrel sample. On the palate it's full and rich, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly brambly tannins that have dusky bitter overtones, and flow into a fairly quick finish. As a barrel sample it is a work in progress, but I think it will be worth waiting for.
Casaloste Chianti Classico 2003
Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, and shadowy, with cedar and penetrating sea salt that open some to reveal brambly berry fruit. On the palate it's medium bodied, with moderately intense cherry plum fruit that gains definition from moderate citric acidity, and is supported by brambly tannins that have yet to settle into the wine. It holds together well, and may achieve a lacy grace with time. I found it growing on me.2 stars
Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico 2003
Delicate almandine ruby. The bouquet is lively, with bright sour red berry fruit supported by menthol and some balsamic overtones laced with savory sea salt. Nice balance. On the palate it's medium bodied, with bright red berry fruit that does reveal a certain softness though there is also bright acidity to give it direction, while support comes from brambly tannins that lay down a long burr that continues into the finish, with bright acidic overtones.2 stars
Collelungo Chianti Classico 2003
Deep almandine ruby. The bouquet is fairly intense and nicely balanced, with red berry fruit supported by mentholated nutmeg spice and by a fair amount of nose-tingling alcohol. Inviting, in its youth. On the palate it's medium bodied, with lively sour cherry fruit supported by brisk citric acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins with a slightly greenish Sangiovese bur, and flow into a long finish with lasting warmth. Pleasant, and you will like it if you like a little zest in your wine.2 stars
