For Brunello di Montalcino, 2004 offers a very nice change of pace after two extremely difficult vintages: There were many more good wines at this year's Brunello Vintage Presentation, and here you will find those that impressed me the most. As is always the case with Brunello di Montalcino, they are very young now, and will profit from more bottle age -- on their sides in a cool, dark, still place for as long as you can bear to wait. 15 years, even.
Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Rich bouquet, with bright slightly jammy cherry fruit supported by deft slightly greenish acidity and by some dusky bitter cedar with vanilla that adds depth. Pleasant in a bright zesty key. On the palate it's ample, and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by sweet tannins that will be quite smooth in a year or two, though they now display a youthful burr that flows into a clean bright cherry finish. Graceful, and is one of those wines that seems simpler than it is; there's considerable harmony in a rich fruit forward style, and it has quite a bit to say. But do give it time.Score: 88-90
Tenuta le Potazzine Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Fairly intense bouquet, with red berry fruit supported by green leather and some nose tingling spice, and an underpinning of bitter graphite shavings. Pleasant in a traditional key. On the palate it's bright, with clean rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean tannic finish with bright berry fruit underpinning and lasting warmth. Refreshing and quite pleasant in a traditional key; it will drink very well with roasts or stews, though it will profit from another year at least, and also age well for a decade or more.Score: 88-90
La Lecciaia Il Baccanale Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Elegant bouquet, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit that gains depth from some blackberry jam accents, and is supported by clean spice and deft slightly citric acidity. Complex. On the palate it's full, and rich, with elegant slightly sour cherry fruit that gains direction from bright berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long, clean fresh berry fruit finish with bright citric support and a smooth tannic underpinning. Quite graceful in a fairly traditional key, and also quite young. Give it time.Score: 88-90
Poggio Antico Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Elegant bouquet, with deft cherry fruit supported by green leather and warm slightly balsamic spice; there's a cheeky tartness to it and it has quite a bit of depth. Interesting. On the palate it's full, with bright rich cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity and by tannins that are fairly smooth -- they're still young -- and flow into a clean rich berry fruit finish. Quite nice, in a vibrantly young key, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will richly reward those blessed with the patience to give it 5, or better yet 10 years.Score: 88
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep almandine ruby with black reflections. Rich bouquet, with rich cherry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, a fair amount of alcoholic warmth, and deft slightly greenish bitter accents. Quite young, but also articulate and has quite a bit to say. Interesting things. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful bright tart berry fruit supported by ample tannins that still have a degree of anger to them, and flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish with lasting warmth. It's very nice, but not really ready yet -- one could drink it if one had to with a thick steak, but it will show much better in 5 years, and even better in 15. Impressive, for the future.Score: 88
Lambardi Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Pale almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Fairly rich bouquet, with deft greenish berry fruit supported by clean spice from grape and a fair amount of alcohol; it's quite young. On the palate it's full, with bright cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity and by tannins that still display a youthful burr, but promise to smooth quite nicely over the next couple of years. Pleasant in a traditional key, and if you like the style it will drink very well with grilled or roasted meats, though it will also richly reward those who have the patience to give it time.Score: 88
La Fiorita Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. Intense bouquet, with rich red berry fruit with some prune accents supported by languid Moroccan leather and considerable warmth; nice balance and harmonious, though still very young. On the palate it's full, with fairly rich warm cherry fruit supported by deft sour berry fruit acidity and by tannins that reveal a youthful cedary burr, and flow into a fairly long cedar-backed berry fruit finish that gains depth from savory accents. It's a toddler striking out on its first steps, but promises quite nicely, and will be worth waiting for.Score: 88
La Lecciaia Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is shut tight, though energetic swishing does bring up some delicate berry fruit supported by mineral acidity and some green leather. On the palate it's ample, with bright berry fruit supported by moderately intense red berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with pleasant tannic underpinning. It's quite elegant in a rather delicate, graceful key, but needs time. 5-10 years.Score: 88
La Togata Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Fairly intense bouquet, with rich cherry and plum fruit supported by slightly balsamic acidity and clean cedar-laced spice. Nice balance, harmonious, & complex. On the palate it's full and rich, with deft plum cherry fruit supported by clean bright plum acidity -- not prune; it's not overripe -- and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with tart tannic underpinning. Quite pleasant in a rather opulent fruit driven key, and if you like the style it will drink quite well even now with a hearty roast or stew, while it also has the legs to age well for a decade or more.Score: 88
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections. Muted bouquet; it's still developing. On the palate it's bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean slightly sour cherry raspberry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The nose is behind the palate at present, and it needs at least a year to get its bearings, though two would be better. When it's ready it will do a beautiful job of supporting a steak or roast, and it will also age well for a decade or more, assuming you have the patience. Worth seeking out if you prefer the more traditional style.Score: 86-8
