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The 2008 Chianti Classico Anteprima

What Impressed me the Most

By , About.com Guide

In addition to writing about food, I write about wine, and attended this year's Chianti Classico vintage presentation. A fascinating event, with some exciting new developments and a great many wines, more than 300 in all. Since this is much more than I can taste in 2 days I picked and chose, mostly vini d'annata (the current vintage), and a few Riserve. Here are the wines that impressed me the most.

Castello di Ama Chianti Classico DOCG 2005

The New Chianti Classico Fascetta with a black roosterKyle Phillips
Deep ruby with black reflections and ruby rim. Powerful, elegant bouquet with rich cherry fruit supported by clean slightly brambly cherry acidity with underlying heather and jammy accents, and some spice. Quite harmonious in a vibrantly fresh youthful key. The palate is full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity that is supported by slightly greenish tannins that flow into a clean fresh berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. Quite graceful, and all the more impressive considering how cold it was and how much it rained in 2005. It will drink beautifully now with rich grilled meats -- a porterhouse cut would be good here -- and will also age nicely for at least 3-5 years. Worth seeking out.
Score: 92

Castellinuzza e Piuca Chianti Classico DOCG 2006

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with fresh cherry fruit supported by slightly green cherry acidity; the effect is cheeky in a bright smiling sort of way, and brought a smile. On the palate it's light, with pleasing sour cherry fruit supported by deft cherry and lemon acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight greenish Sangiovese burr, and flow into a warm clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a light key, and will drink very well with simple grilled meats, ranging from poultry through ribs (not too spicy), and also has the acidity necessary to balance fried foods. Expect the bottle to go quite quickly, and you will likely want another. Worth seeking out.
Score: 88-90

Collelungo Chianti Classico DOCG 2006

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Powerful, oaky bouquet with considerable fairly sweet cedar blended into ripe cherry fruit that has jammy overtones, and some bitter accents. Very international, and very young. On the palate it's ample, and bright, with rich cherry fruit supported by clean sour cherry acidity, while the tannins are clean and sweet, with a slight greenish burr. The palate is much more mature than the nose, and if the nose follows it the end result will be quite pleasant in a smooth but not voluptuous international key. In other words, even if you're a traditionalist by nature you will find things to enjoy here. Worth seeking out to enjoy with a succulent steak or roast.
Score: 88-90

Podere Terreno alla Via di Volpaia Chianti Classico DOCG 2004

Deep almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with underbrush mingled with brambly acidity and underlying delicate fruit with hints of dried flowers. On the palate it's medium bodied and deft, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly mineral berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that display clean slightly greenish overtones and flow into a fresh, bright berry fruit finish with a clean slightly brambly underpinning. It's quite pleasant in a decidedly traditional key -- no small oak here -- and will drink nicely with grilled meats or roasts, If you like the style you will enjoy it very much, and may want a second bottle.
Score: 88-90

Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico DOCG 2004

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with red berry fruit mingled with some greenish spice and deft acidity; it gives an impression of being in mid stride. On the palate it's ample, with fairly intense slightly sour cherry and forest berry fruit supported by moderately intense slightly mineral acidity, and by tannins that are smooth and glancing, and flow into a clean fairly bitter finish. It's quite traditional, and will drink nicely with succulent grilled meats or light stews. Worth seeking out if you like this style, and even if you prefer the studied smoothness of wines aged in small oak you'll find things to contemplate here. I would enjoy it with a platter of mixed grilled meats.
Score: 88-90

Casa Emma Chianti Classico DOCG 2006

Lively black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, with bitter berry fruit supported by some vegetal acidity and underlying peppery spice. A nice lot going on, and fairly harmonious too. On the palate it's medium bodied, ample and smooth, with bright cherry fruit supported by clean slightly sour berry fruit acidity that has some red currant overtones, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour fruit laced finish with lasing acidic warmth. Graceful, and I have the impression that the nose is a bit behind the body; it needs another 6-8 monts to develop, and will then be quite nice with simple grilled meats or light stews. Indeed, perfect in the proper setting, and worth seeking out.
Score: 88

Villa del Cigliano Cigliano Chianti Classico DOCG 2006

Lively almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish citric fruit and bright berry fruit supported by clean underlying citric acidity. Considerable depth. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by clean lemony acidity that flows into a clean deft slightly tannic finish. Young, but quite graceful, and will drink very well with succulent grilled meats hearty stews, and will develop nicely over the next 3-5 years. Worth seeking out if you like this rather youthful style.
Score: 88

Castello di Vicchiomaggio Montevasco Chianti Classico DOCG 2006

Black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is closed, though swishing brings up some greenish accents mingled with berry fruit that gains in intensity. On the palate it's bright, with clean lively cherry fruit that gains direction from bright deft citric acidity, while the tannins are clean with a slightly greenish splintery burr that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with depth from acidity and tannic support. Quite graceful though very young, and promises well for the future; one could enjoy it very much with grilled meats or light stews now, or even fried meats and vegetables or keep it for longer, by which time it will be rather lacy. Expect the bottle to go quickly, and you will want another.
Score: 88

Concadoro Vigna di Gaversa Chianti Classico DOCG 2003

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections. Fairly rich bouquet with jammy berry fruit that gains direction from some sour citric acidity and is supported by warm greenish accents and alcohol. On the palate ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by clean sweet citric acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a warm clean finish. It's quite graceful, and one would never guess it was from the hot dry 2003 vintage if one didn't read the label; it will drink quite well with succulent red meats off the grill or out of the oven, and will also age nicely for 5-8 years. If you like the more traditional style it's well worth seeking out, and even if you prefer the "modern" style you will enjoy it.
Score: 88

Il Molino di Grace Chianti Classico DOCG 2005

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is elegant, with violets and red berry fruit mingled with dusky cedar and underlying spice. Nice balance and harmonious, though it's obvious that the wine is not from a hot vintage. On the palate it's graceful, with moderately intense sour cherry fruit supported by clean citric acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that are ample but not overlarge, and flow into a clean cherry fruit finish that gains definition from acidity and savory accents. Graceful, and quite pleasant to drink; it's like a pretty girl who speaks quietly, forcing one to concentrate to hear, and who has something to say. Worth seeking out.
Score: 88

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