The 2004 Barolo:

Rocche Viberti Vigneti Rocche Barolo DOCG 2004

Fairly deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, and though swishing brings up some berry fruit mingled with rosa canina and supported by alcohol and acidity the wine is surrendering only grudgingly, and really just wants to be left alone. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit laced with rosa canina and hints of leather, and supported by lively cherry acidity, while the tannins are clean and beginning to develop velvet, though they're still quite young. Bracing, in a youthful zesty way, and it will be quite pleasant with succulent red meats in a year or two, when the pieces have come together; I would expect it to age well for 10-15 years. Something to seek out and set aside.
Score: 88

Alessandria Gianfranco San Giovanni Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with cedar and spice more than fruit, and some alcohol as well. On the palate it's ample, and brighter than one might have expected from the nose, with lively cherry fruit supported by a combination of sour cherry acidity and tannins that do have some cedary overtones but aren't really oaky, and flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish. The nose is in a stupid phase, I think, but the palate offers a pleasing combination of grace and power. It needs time, 12-18 months, for the nose to begin to come together, and will age nicely for at least a decade and probably much more. It grew on me. Worth seeking out.
Score: 88

Monfalletto Corderodi Montezemolo Bricco Gattera Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep pigeon blood ruby with some almandine in the rim. Fairly intense, bright bouquet with red berry fruit supported by cedar that has some penetrating hardwood ash accents, and by clean greenish notes, with underlying berry fruit acidity. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by tannins that have been polished by a dusting of cedar, but are very much present and provide good direction and support, leading into a fairly long fruit laced finish with warm cedary underpinning. Pleasant in a fairly modern key, and though one could drink it now with roasts or stews, it will profit from another year or perhaps two in bottle. Worth seeking out if you like the style.
Score: 87-9

Monchiero Fratelli Roere Barolo DOCG 2004

Almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish berry fruit supported by spice and a fair amount of alcohol. On the palate it's clan, with moderately rich red berry fruit supported by clean sour berry fruit acidity and by ample tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean slightly tannic finish. It's pleasant, displaying a fair amount of grace in a distinctly traditional key, and though there is some youthful brashness to it, it will clean up nicely over the next couple of years, and age quite well for a decade or more. I found it growing upon me.
Score: 87-9

Renato Ratti Conca Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. Powerful bouquet with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by some berry fruit jam and by clean sandalwood laced spice. Quite young. On the palate it's ample, and fairly sweet, with rich jammy berry fruit supported by moderate acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have a slight underpinning of cedar and flow into a clean fruit laced finish. It's quite elegant in a fruit driven key, and if you like this style you will enjoy it very much; because of its softness it will work well with drier meats. However, it's not (to my mind) true to type with respect to Barolo, which should I think be much more nervous at this stage, and I fear this wine won't age for long.
Score: 87

Germano Ettore Prapò Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is bright, with greenish berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and slight spice with hints of rosa canina too. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by deft sour cherry acidity and smooth sweet tannins that flow into a fairly long fruit laced finish with some bitter tannic undertones. It's pleasant, in a fresh lively key, and will drink quite well with succulent red meats now, though it also has the capacity o age well for many years, and will do interesting things in the future. I would hold it for a year or two, and expect it to age well for a decade or more.
Score: 87

Vietti Brunate Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim fading into orange. The bouquet is fairly rich, with clean red berry fruit supported by lively greenish spice and deft underlying alcohol; it's quite young. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with fairly rich berry fruit supported by moderate berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean slightly bitter finish. It's very young, in a quite ripe key -- the acidity is less because of this -- and though approachable already will profit from another year or two in bottle, and age well for a decade at least. How much longer? Not sure, because there isn't that much acidity to it. Worth seeking out if you like this rich ripe style.
Score: 86-8

Pio Cesare Barolo DOCG 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is moderately intense, with red berry fruit supported by some greenish accents and underlying greenness; more swishing also brings up rosa canina. Muted, and still working on where it's going. On the palate it's ample and soft, with fairly rich red berry fruit supported by bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth soft tannins that flow into a clean bright berry fruit finish with direction from acidity and tannic underpinning. Within the context of Serralunga it's a breath of fresh air, with fruit that's ripe but not overripe, pleasant acidity, and tannins that are providing direction without being settled. It will age gracefully too.
Score: 86-8

Mascarello Bartolo Barolo DOCG 2004

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is muted, though swishing brings up some spice mingled with hints of wood smoke. It's like a person who really wants to be left alone. On the palate it's bright, with lively cherry fruit supported by deft cherry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean sour cherry fruit finish, and while it's quick to write there's considerable grace to it, and it will drink very well in the short term (2009) with succulent red meats. Those who have the patience to give it a few years will, however, be richly rewarded, I think, because I have the impression that it is going places and will be worth waiting for.
Score: 86

Poderi Aldo Conterno Colonello Barolo DOCG 2004

Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. The bouquet is fairly intense, with cedar-laced berry fruit supported by splice and hints of rosa canina. On the palate it's ample, with fairly rich cherry and forest berry fruit supported by bright sour cherry acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fresh finish. Quite young, but one could drink it with succulent red meats now. However, I think it will age quite well, increasing considerably in complexity with the passage of time. Quite pleasant in a ripe, but not overripe fruit driven key, and the balance between acidity and fruit is quite nice; it's an excellent wine with which to approach the appellation if you are new to Barolo.
Score: 87