The 2004 Barolo is very good: thanks to a perfect summer ripening took place at a more measured pace, allowing everything to come together and fall into place properly, resulting in wines that though still very young display considerable grace and harmony coupled with supple power, and that will be well worth seeking out to set aside for enjoyment in future years.
Here are the wines that impressed me the most in the course of the vintage presentation.
Here are the wines that impressed me the most in the course of the vintage presentation.
Burlotto Comm. G. B. Acclivi Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. Elegant ouquet with deft red berry fruit supported by clean rosa canina and pleasing spice; though it's very young one can hold a long conversation with it. Great depth and finesse. On the palate it's clean and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity that guides without impinging, and by sweet tannins that are already well into steely velvet despite their being very young, while the finish is long and clean with berry fruit that has a deft tannic underpinning. It's very young, but shows great poise, rather like a young ballerina who already has experience with the stage. Expect it to age well for 15-20 years.Score: 91
Burlotto Commendator G. B. Vigneto Cannubi Barolo DOCG 2004
Elegant garnet ruby with garnet rim. The bouquet is pleasant, with rosa canina mingled with spice and red berry fruit supported by deft berry fruit acidity. Considerable depth, and though it's quick to write there's also great harmony in a decidedly youthful key. On the palate it's ample, with rich rather languid cherry and forest berry fruit supported by clean bright slightly greenish Nebbiolo acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean deft fruit finish. Graceful, and though it will evolve quite nicely with time one could enjoy it now with grilled meats or roasts. I found myself smiling and nodding as I sipped.Score: 87
Cogno Elvio Ravera Barolo DOCG 2004
Black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish accents and some spice mingled with red berry fruit and a fair amount of alcohol that adds depth, while there are also some cedar and hints of balsam. A fair amount going on in a fairly traditional, very young key. On the palate it's ample, with bright red berry fruit supported by lively berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that work well from below the surface to lead into a clean tart berry fruit finish. Graceful, in a rich key, and will drink very well with succulent red meats even now, though it will benefit from another year in the cellar, and improve markedly over the next 10-15 years.Score: 88-90
Rocche Costamagna Bricco Francesco Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and leathery almandine rim The bouquet is fairly intense, with rich rosa canina mingled with green leather and berry fruit; classic Nebbiolo and a great deal of finesse. On the palate it's ample, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean almost lacy cherry acidity, and by ample sweet tannins that have a slight savory burr, and flow into a fairly long tannic finish. It's a babe in the woods, but a nice babe, and though one could drink it now with a steak it will richly reward those who have the patience to let it develop. Very nice, and worth seeking out.Score: 88-90
Grasso Silvio Bricco Luciani Barolo DOCG 2004
The Deep black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is delicate, with floral accents and rosa canina mingled with ripe fruit and some delicate cedar; there's something young to it and it's obviously in mid stride though quite nice as it walks. On the palate it's ample and rich, with clean bright berry fruit that gains direction from deft berry fruit acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have a warm burr and flow into a clean graceful berry fruit finish with tannic underpinning. It's quick to write but quite graceful, and shows great depth and elegance now, it 's one of those wines one hates to pour out at a tasting. Beautiful, well worth seeking out, and I'd expect it to age well for 10-15 years.Score: 88-90
Grasso Silvio Ciabot Manzoni Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine in the rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with berry fruit supported by greenish jammy accents and pleasing spice. On the palate it's ample, with rich fairly sweet cherry fruit that is directed by deft forest berry fruit acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins. Quick to write, but also pleasant to sip, and will drink quite well with red meats in the short term, and has the capacity to age well for at least a decade. I found it growing upon me.Score: 86-8
Alario Claudio Riva Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine shifting to orange in the rim. The bouquet is clean and rich, with pleasant cherry fruit supported by green leather and some rosa canina with underlying spice. Considerable finesse, and there's a lot to think about here. On the palate it's ample and smooth, with rich red berry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean fruit laced finish. Very nice in a traditional key, and though one could drink it now to do so would be folly, because it will age very, very well for many, many years. Well worth seeking out if you like this style. One of those wines you hate to pour out at a tasting.Score: 88-90
Costa di Bussia Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep black almandine with black reflections and almandine rim paling towards orange. Powerful young bouquet with elegant rosa canina mingled with hints of raw beef and berry fruit with underlying spice. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful cherry fruit supported by clean berry fruit acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that are already displaying steely smoothness wrapped in velvet, and it all flows into a clean rather soft finish. Quite elegant in a traditional key, and though drinkable now though it will richly reward those blessed with the patience to give it the time it needs -- 10-15 years and perhaps longer. Well worth seeking out if you like this style.Score: 88-90
Ascheri Giacomo Sorano Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with almandine rim and black reflections. The bouquet is rich, with elegant berry fruit supported by clean slightly greenish accents and pleasing berry fruit acidity; though it's quite young there's considerable depth. On the palate it's full with rich red berry fruit supported by deft acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long, long sour cherry finish with tannic underpinning. Great elegance, and though one could drink it now with a steak or roast, it will richly reward those with the patience necessary to give it time. Well worth seeking out to drink if you must, and to set aside otherwise.Score: 88-90
Alessandria Fratelli Gramolere Barolo DOCG 2004
Deep almandine with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is fresh, with rosa canina and savory accents supported by spice and green leather with some underbrush as well, mingled with wood smoke. On the palate it's bright, with fairly rich cherry fruit supported by clean bright berry fruit acidity and by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a long clean tart berry fruit finish. Pleasant, in a rich fruit driven key that's neither overripe nor over oaked, and though it is approachable now and would work well with succulent red meats, I would be tempted to give it a couple of years, and expect it to age well for 15 or more. Expect it to become quite graceful with time.Score: 88

