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The 2004 Amarone:

What Impressed Me The Most

By , About.com Guide

Of the great Italian red wines, Amarone della Valpolicella is certainly the most exotic: It's made from a blend of red grapes harvested as usual, and then set on mats to dry until late in the fall, when the sugars are concentrated and fascinating things have happened to the flavors. After a long fermentation and aging what emerges from the barrels is intensely concentrated, with terrific fruit and enticing spice, and also powerful -- 15 or more percent alcohol. These wines age well for decades, and add magic to meals featuring hearty stews, rich roasts, or boiled meats. In short, perfect for (very) special occasions.

Bussola Tommaso Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections. The bouquet is fairly rich, with forest berry and black currant fruit supported by hints of sandalwood and slight mentholated accents, with underlying spice. Pleasant. On the palate it's full and rich, with powerful warm cherry plum fruit supported by sandalwood accents and some warmth, while the tannins are quite smooth, and flow into a clean slightly bitter berry fruit finish with (again) hints of sandalwood. Quite nice, though very young; it will drink nicely now with a hearty succulent roast or a rich stew, but will gain considerably in finesse and elegance as it ages, and will be worth meditating over in the future, say a decade from now.
Score: 88-90

Gerardo Cesari Il Bosco Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is fairly rich, with greenish sandalwood mingled with jammy berry fruit with underlying spice; the impression is one of airiness, and also subtlety in a very young key. On the palate it's full and fairly rich, with elegant cherry plum fruit laced with some sandalwood acidity, and supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly dry fruit laced finish that gains direction and depth from sandalwood bitterness and slight graphite. It's very young, but graceful, and will develop quite nicely over the next few years, becoming lacy with time. If you like this fairly austere style you will like it very much, and it will only get better.
Score: 88-90

Accordini Igino Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Impenetrable black almandine with black reflections. The bouquet is intense, with red berry fruit laced with sandalwood and slight balsamic note, and some pleasant greenish accents that have a rather ethereal feel to them. Very young, but going in the right direction. On the palate it's full, with rich berry fruit, a mixture of cherries and red currants that also supply acidity, supported by sandalwood laced tannins that have greenish overtones and flow into a clean fruit laced finish with sandalwood bitterness. Young, but quite pleasant, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or rich stews now, though if you have the patience to wait it will have much more to say.
Score: 88-90

Mazzi Roberto e Figli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and black almandine rim. Powerful bouquet with dusky greenish accents mingled with sandalwood and penetrating balsamic spice with some barnyard tang; underneath there is some menthol and red berry fruit. Brooding. On the palate it's full, and fairly sweet, with elegant cherry fruit that gains direction from some sour cherry acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that have sandalwood overtones, and flow into a slightly smoky berry fruit finish. Quite elegant, in a way that brings ammandorlato to mind more than a completely dry Amarone, and if you prefer dry wines it may not work for you. Then again it might, because there's something captivatingly exotic about it.
Score: 88

Tenuta Sant'Antonio Campo dei Gigli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and black cherry rim. The bouquet is powerful, and sugary, with a mixture of berry fruit and brown sugar with underlying alcohol and red berry fruit. Airy. On the palate it's full, and sweet, though not as sweet as a Recioto, with bright cherry and forest berry fruit that gains direction from sour berry fruit acidity, and is supported by sweet tannins that flow into a clean cherry and forest berry fruit finish. It's quite lively, and will drink very well with stews or roasts now, and will also age well for a number of years. In short, a wine to enjoy now, and also to set aside for the future.
Score: 88

Sartori Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflection and cherry rim. The bouquet is bright, in a greenish key, with red berry fruit supported by some diesel fuel and warm greenish spice. Considerable depth, and I found it growing upon me. On the palate it's full, and bright, with lively red berry fruit supported by clean sweet tannins that have a peppery burr to them, and by bright berry fruit acidity that carries into a clean berry fruit finish with a lively underlying peppery tang. Quite pleasant, in a lively key, and will drink very well with succulent roasts or stews now, and promises to age well for a decade or probably more as well. In short, a wine for today and tomorrow.
Score: 88

Benedetti Corte Antica di Benedetti Amarone Croce del Gral Amarone Classico

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. The bouquet is elegant, with clean berry fruit supported by cedar and some greenish accents; the overall impression is quite harmonious. On the palate it's full, but not quite as full as I expected, with elegant cherry fruit supported by some forest berry acidity, and by smooth sweet tannins that have faint sandalwood overtones and flow into a clean sandalwood and berry fruit finish. It's quite elegant, though in mid-stride, and though one could drink it now with a stew or roast, it will richly reward those who have the patience to give it another 5-10 years to develop. Worth seeking out if you like wines that revolve more around subtlety and finesse than power.
Score: 87

Nicolis Angelo e Figli Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black almandine ruby with black reflections and almandine rim. Intense bouquet with India ink mingled with greenish sandalwood accents and underlying bitterness, hardwood ash and sea salt, with hits of green leather and underlying cherry and forest berry fruit. Quite a bit going on, in a young key that's in mid stride. On the palate full, with fairly intense cherry fruit supported by dusky graphite bitterness, while direction comes from equally dusky savory acidity, and it flows into a clean savory fruit laced finish that gains definition from underlying bitterness. Elegant, in a youthfully muscular key, and will gain considerably with time.
Score: 86-7

Fraccaroli Domenico Grotta del Ninfeo Amarone Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black cherry ruby with black reflections and cherry rim. The bouquet is intense, with sandalwood and savory accents mingled with India ink and graphite shavings; there's not much fruit. On the palate it's full, and rich, with powerful fairly sweet cherry plum fruit that gains direction from smooth plum acidity, and is supported by smooth sweet tannins that flow into a clean fairly sweet berry fruit finish. Elegant, in a rich key that brings Recioto to mind, and given the palate I would give the nose a year or two to catch up. Drink it with flavorful even spicy stews or hearty roasts, and expect it to age quite well for a decade or more.
Score: 85-7

Manara Amarone Classico Della Valpolicella 2004

Deep black almandine with black reflections and dark almandine rim. Powerful fairly sweet bouquet with a heady mixture of berry fruit jam and slight sandalwood that brings a Recioto to mind, and is supported by hints of cut squash. Voluptuous. On the palate full, with fairly rich cherry plum fruit that's more acidic than I expected from the nose, and also has balsamic overtones that were completely unexpected, while the tannins are warm and savory, and flow into a clean slightly bitter savory sandalwood finish. It's up in the air at present, and needs another year to get its bearings; I expect that it will age nicely, becoming lacy with time. Worth seeking out to set aside.
Score: 85-7

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