In introducing Tuscany's cacciucco Artusi notes that a very similar fish stew is called Brodetto on the Adriatic coast, and then observes that the word Brodetto is used to describe an egg-based Easter soup in Florence: He concludes with the hope that Italians will unify their culinary terminology.
This hasn't happened in the century since he published his book, and the stewed meat he calls Fricandó differs considerably from what you will find in Piemonte or the Valle D'Aosta.
This hasn't happened in the century since he published his book, and the stewed meat he calls Fricandó differs considerably from what you will find in Piemonte or the Valle D'Aosta.
Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook Time: 2 hours
Ingredients:
- Boneless veal rump roast weighing about 2 1/4 pounds (1 k)
- 1/4 pound prosciutto (or pancetta), cut into thin strips (for lardoning)
- An onion stuck with two cloves
- A carrot, peeled and cut into strips
- Several sprigs parsley
- A small stick celery
- 1/4 cup unsalted butter
- 2 ladles simmering meat broth
Preparation:
Artusi published this recipe a bit more than a century ago, and it is, like many old recipes, cursory. In particular, he simply says leg of veal, and not how much. I would go with a boneless rump roast weighing about 2 1/4 pounds (1 k). Having said this, Artusi's Recipe:
"Take a piece of suckling calf, from the leg, and lardon it with prosciutto. Tie the meat and salt it lightly, or better yet, not at all, because being too salty is the worst defect a dish can have. Sick an onion with two cloves and make a bouquet garnis with a carrot cut into strips, some parsley, and some celery. Set all the ingredients in a casserole with a healthy dab of butter, brown the meat, then add broth and simmer it over a gentle flame until tender.
"Once the meat is cooked, discard the onion and the bouquet. Remove the meat to a platter and keep it warm. Strain and degrease the sauce, and reduce it till it assumes the consistency of a gelatin; serve it with the meat.
"I should note here that it is possible to run out of broth (which plays such an important part in the preparation of foods); in the event of such an emergency, some cooks stalk up on Leibig meat extract, which, when dissolved in water, can substitute for it.
"Meat should always be lardoned along the fibers, while it should be carved across them."
A final observation: Artusi doesn't say how much broth -- you're not boiling the meat, so start by adding a couple of ladles of simmering broth to the pot, and add more if need be. Simmering time? At least an hour.
More Fricandó?
In the Valle D'Aosta they use beef rump, and cube it. In Piemonte, the dish is made with a variety of beef cuttings, and those who like it add tomato as well.
"Take a piece of suckling calf, from the leg, and lardon it with prosciutto. Tie the meat and salt it lightly, or better yet, not at all, because being too salty is the worst defect a dish can have. Sick an onion with two cloves and make a bouquet garnis with a carrot cut into strips, some parsley, and some celery. Set all the ingredients in a casserole with a healthy dab of butter, brown the meat, then add broth and simmer it over a gentle flame until tender.
"Once the meat is cooked, discard the onion and the bouquet. Remove the meat to a platter and keep it warm. Strain and degrease the sauce, and reduce it till it assumes the consistency of a gelatin; serve it with the meat.
"I should note here that it is possible to run out of broth (which plays such an important part in the preparation of foods); in the event of such an emergency, some cooks stalk up on Leibig meat extract, which, when dissolved in water, can substitute for it.
"Meat should always be lardoned along the fibers, while it should be carved across them."
A final observation: Artusi doesn't say how much broth -- you're not boiling the meat, so start by adding a couple of ladles of simmering broth to the pot, and add more if need be. Simmering time? At least an hour.
More Fricandó?
In the Valle D'Aosta they use beef rump, and cube it. In Piemonte, the dish is made with a variety of beef cuttings, and those who like it add tomato as well.
