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Piemontese Meat Stew Recipe - Fricandó - Fricandó alla Piemontese

By Kyle Phillips, About.com

In introducing Tuscany's cacciucco Artusi notes that a very similar fish stew is called Brodetto on the Adriatic coast, and then observes that the word Brodetto is used to describe an egg-based Easter soup in Florence: He concludes with the hope that Italians will unify their culinary terminology. This hasn't happened in the century since he published his book, and the stewed meat he calls Fricandó differs considerably from what you will find in Piemonte or the Valle D'Aosta.

Prep Time: 30 minutes

Cook Time: 2 hours, 20 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 2 1/4 pounds (1 k) beef trimmings (see below)
  • 2 ounces (60 g) cured lard or pancetta, finely chopped
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • The needles from 2 8-inch (20 cm) sprigs fresh rosemary, minced
  • 5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
  • 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • A leek or onion, finely sliced
  • A carrot, finely chopped
  • Half a celery rib, finely chopped
  • 1 cup dry red wine
  • 1/2 pound (225 g) peeled button onions
  • 3 potatoes, peeled and cubed
  • Salt and pepper to taste
  • Optional: 1-1 1/2 cups (250-375 ml) tomato sauce, or 1/4 cup tomato paste
  • Optional: 1/2 pound (225 g) Luganega sausage

Preparation:

Continuing with the introduction, in Piemonte fricandó is made with a variety of meats, in essence the trimmings, which, according to Alessandro Molinari Pradelli, butchers set aside especially for those who wanted to make the dish. He mentions trimmings from breast of beef, neck, shank, and fillet, while the fricandó I had in Torino also included short pieces of Luganega sausage. If I were to include it, I would figure about 1/2 pound (200 g), cut into 1-inch (2 1/2 cm) lengths.

And Now, The Instructions:

Assemble the ingredients listed above.

Heat the oil and butter in a casserole and brown the chopped lard or pancetta; when it has colored add the chopped meat, chopped rosemary needles, and crushed garlic colves. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the meat is browned. Add the vinegar and let it evaporate.

Add the sliced leek or onion and the chopped celery and carrot, check seasoning, and simmer over a gentle flame until the vegetables have softened and wilted. Add the red wine, and a ladle or two of hot water or broth, cover, and simmer over a gentle flame for an hour. Add the onions and potatoes, and continue simmering until done (about another hour), stirring occasionally.

Serve at once. Sides? Spinaci rifatti, recooked spinach, would be nice, and this will be very good with polenta.

Variations:
Rather than rosemary, some cooks use fresh sage and bay leaf (the fricandó I had in Torino was seasoned with quite a bit of bay leaf).
Also, you can, if you want, include tomato sauce or tomato paste diluted in the hot water -- 1 to 1 1/2 cups (250-375 ml) tomato sauce, or 1/4 cup tomato paste diluted in water.

More Fricandó?
In the Valle D'Aosta they use beef rump, and cube it. Artusi instead calls for leg of veal (rump roast), lardoned and left whole.
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